Monday May 10 [First day in India] We arrived in Bombay from Kenya and continued on to Madras. Upon arrival we headed into the center via commuter train. The train rambled from station to station with blind beggars getting on at regular intervals. The suburbs (or slums rather) turned into the center with people and refuse everywhere. We looked for rooms for about 45 mins., sweat running off our bodies [May is pre-monsoon and the hottest time of the year in India]. Finally we phoned a guesthouse recommended in LP [Lonely Planet] located a bit further out. They had rooms available so we took a tuk-tuk out there. Careening around busses in the small vehicle was an adventure in itself. When I saw the Broadlands Hotel I knew we had finally taken a turn for the better – friendly staff, beautiful colors several courtyards and 3 levels of rooms. We chose one on the 2nd floor and I sighed when they opened the dbl. doors overlooking a big field with a large mosque at the end. The complex once housed the lesser wives of a shiek and as we looked around at sunset it was wonderful to be in such serene surroundings. They even employ boys to run out and get food and drink for you, do the laundry, etc. They cater to your every need. We enjoyed a huge bottle of cold beer on the rooftop while Drei delivered vegetable samosas and egg fried rice wrapped in a palm leaf. We were in heaven.
Southern Rajasthan
Thur. June 3 After a night train from Bombay to Ahmedabad (Gujarat), we continued on by train to Abu Road in Rajasthan. The 5-hour journey was pleasantly shared with an Indian family that filled our compartment to bursting. We napped in the berths above and the family very generously shared their lunch with us. It was nice tasting some home specialties and they were actually very kind. At Abu Road we endured the typical information run-around at the bus station. It was the usual mad rush for the vehicle when the bus pulled up. We managed seats and soon were underway in a bus full of Rajashani peasants. Little girls used our packs as seats. Women sang us ½ way to Udaipur and turbaned men stood guard, toothless and smiling. The road looked worse for wear as it wound up the mtn. Bridges were being rebuilt by hand. It’s still amazing even though we’ve seen it enough – women hammering boulders into gravel and carrying the pebbles on their heads to the construction site. Here they still work in their colorful Rajasthani clothing and best jewelry from head to toe in the sweltering heat. As we reached the summit it cooled down a lot and was quite comfortable walking to the guest house. We showered and went right off to the Delwara Jain temples before their 6PM closing. After chasing off a few pesky teenagers we were the only ones touring the site. Two of the temples were fabulous in their intricate sculptural work. It was exciting viewing something hat we’d planned 2 years ago. The sculptural work is really unsurpassed. How someone can carve something so small and delicate out of marble is awesome. We returned to the touristy village. Crafts galore and more tempted us. While purchasing bangles we heard music and pursued its source. A 4-piece ensemble played while women took turns dancing within the crowd of other women celebrating an upcoming wedding. An old man appeared and explained things for us. Then, of course, he invited us to his shop. We followed the group of celebrating women. Four women symbolically placed 2 urns on the couple’s heads who led the still-dancing procession. We wanted to shop anyway so we returned to the man’s shop. It turned out to be a tailor’s stall with a smooth salesman. We ended up ordering 3 sari tops I’d wanted made and 2 pairs of reversible pants. Reid succumbed as well, ordering 2 dress shirts, 2 pairs slacks, and 3 pieces of silk for gifts. As it had gotten late we went to the Veena restaurant and had a nice Thali meal. Then back to the hotel for one of the best sleeps we’ve had all trip.
Udaipur
Sat June 5 We’d booked a private bus company so it was much more comfortable seating. Riding by the window on the Cliffside I often couldn’t bear to watch as the corners came up quickly. We were down to the flat lands in a short time. When we left the Mt Abu road I thought this must be a back road. It was a one lane, paved road but partially overgrown by roadside shrubbery. How two buses or a truck managed to pass was surprising to me. Needless to say, the shoulder was used as often as the road. The 4 ½ hour journey was interesting crossing the dryer plains. Low stone fences ran up and around hillsides, marking out small farms. There was just enough greenery to remind one of Mykonos. The occasional grazing camel and colorfully dressed women and white-dressed men with florescent-colored turbans dispelled that connection. We had a break at a junction where soft drinks and snacks were available, small children sold dates, sacred cows wandered in awkward places and women hid shyly behind their saris. As we approached Udaipur we saw more women with chiffony, see-through and neon-colored half saris. Evening darkness was upon us as we arrived in Udaipur. We hired a rickshaw to look for lodgings. We settled on the Lalghat Guesthouse with its cool lavender blue walls and friendly faces. Looking out over Lake Pichola at the floodlit Lake Palace Hotel and Jag Mandir island I knew we had to stay here. This is truly one of the most beautiful, most romantic settings we’ve encountered. It is no wonder so many travelers list Udaipur as their favorite destination. I walked up to the Mahal Café near the Jagdish Temple for take out so Reid could rest – not feeling very well. We made our dining room in a small arched niche overlooking the lake. The view is magical.
Sun June 6 We had our breakfast in our upstairs portico niche. We sat under the stone canopy of arches and watched the bathing activity at the ghats below. These sections of stairs leading down to the lake are the centerpiece of daily activity. The dhobi wallas were beating clothes clean. The whacking echoed off the walls amidst sounds of children splashing and swimming. After breakfast we walked through the labyrinth of lanes along the shore hillside up to the city palace. This series of royal structures sprawls above the lake in three major buildings dating from the 15th to 19th centuries. The royal family still inhabits one portion and one segment has been converted into a hotel. We toured the older segments of faded glory with our usual flock of curious Indian tourists. The palace is somewhat worse for wear but still impressive with its mosaic works, fancy arches, and sweeping lake views. After a quick afternoon nap we headed up to the Monsoon Palace by rickshaw. We climbed the serpentine road up the 7 km. to the palace. At the top we enjoyed the panoramic view of the lake and city below as the sun sank in the west. Stunning!
Tues June 8 After a light breakfast we packed up and headed to the boat launch for the trip over to the Lake Palace Hotel for our ultimate splurge. After checking in we were taken to our room. Welcome drinks arrived and we toasted our elegant surroundings. The air conditioning was heavenly. The television was flicked on to MTV Asia. I soaked in our backyard view of the lake and the Monsoon Palace on the hill above from the small sitting room. We just relaxed and went through the goodies and literature left for us. Bathrobes were hanging in the closet and the bathroom was stocked with necessities and luxuries. Eventually we ventured out of our comfortable accommodations and toured the hotel. Magazines lay all over the bar, the gift shop was full of fun books and had a miniature artist at work. I previewed every nook and cranny for future photo work then decided non lunch at the coffee shop. Tucked away in a turreted corner we were nearly level with the water and a city view filled the floor-to-ceiling windows. The food was delicious and the whole staff was ours since there were very few guests. The pool beckoned us next and we donned our robes to walk down. Tucked in the southern corner, one enters by a narrow marble passageway. A huge mango tree takes up the corner and the small pool is the center piece. The turrets and stone canopies shading us made exquisite photographic material so I hopped around snapping shots. We read and relaxed until early evening came for too fast. We showered and got down to the boat launch for the evening lake cruise. The guide gave us information as the boat cruised by the city palace allowing a lovely perspective. We then visited Jag Mandir island. The light was perfect, the setting ideal, and the time spent was too short. The towering buildings over the main square afforded some beautiful views from its turrets and below through the elephant pavilion back at the city. We returned to the hotel and ordered room service for dinner. Afterward we headed to the bar for the evening’s entertainment. In the courtyard a puppet show was already underway. We caught the last 15 minutes which was just enough. Very colorful and entertaining. The night air was fragrant with orchids and gardenias. A waiter in full livery brought us beer in silver flagons and we stayed with a small group of guests to watch the dance performance. It was well done and very intimate sitting under the stars. The exotic architecture above, musicians sitting under the trellised plants behind and the puppeteers turned dancers whirling in front of us, balancing as many as 7 glasses of water on their heads while one performed finger cymbal acrobatics. The crowed dispersed with shows finale so we had the whole bar to ourselves. Sitting in our regal chairs we tipped another silver mug of beer and toasted before the island lit in the distance.
Ranakpur
Wed June 9 Room service breakfast was unsurpassed [still at Lake Palace Hotel]. Reid enjoyed the room while I took one last round of the hotel’s cozy spots, sitting in one turret to write awhile, seeing something else to photograph, moving to another niche. On our way to the pool for a morning swim and employee gladly allowed us to peek into two sumptuous suites. They were really fun to see. After a last Lake Palace lunch we took the boat back to the shore to catch our bus to Ranakpur. I believe I’ve never had such a pleasurable hotel experience. We learned our bus had broken down and would not be replaces so we splurged for a hired car. We passed through rolling hills dotted with greenery climbing to a leafy forested gorge to Ranakpur – a celebrated pilgrimage for Jains. The secluded center is unlike other shrines in India. There are no thronging crowds nor busy bazaars selling souvenirs. The tranquil, desolate character of the place is in keeping with the austere ideals of the Jains. These surroundings contain no hint of the treasure that lies there - the Adishvara Temple, renowned for its architectural and sculptural beauty. Intricately carved from white marble, this complex contains 29 halls and a forest of pillars (1444 our guidebook says) – no two alike. This was our discovery as the sun huddled low on the hilltop. We got some great exterior shots and were on our way when a young priest called to us. He invited us to come for the evening “candle and light” ceremony. We returned and our host, Serma, ushered us into the temple. Brief but resonating, the ceremony took place to the thumping of a large drum, ringing bells, and loudly crashing cymbals. You could feel it down to your toes – vibrating. The temple was lit only by candles and the atmosphere was heightened by burning incense and chanting. It was a truly transcendent moment. Reid says it is one of the most significant he’s ever experienced. Something about the combination of incense, drumming, bells, and chanting really touches the divine within. Before retiring we accepted Serma’s offer to give us a morning tour of the temple and returned to our guesthouse.
Thurs June 10 After breakfast we returned to the temple complex. Sitting in the shade of one of the smaller temples we enjoyed a cool breeze while watching monkeys frolic and vibrant green parrots flitting by. Serma met us on the stairs and toured us completely through the complex including his special niche for morning meditation. Sitting cross-legged on the ground he demonstrated his mantra and gave us a blessing. His chanting once again touched us like the previous night’s ceremony. Later Serma helped arrange a car for us to get out to Kumbhalgarh fort since no bus was available. 1 ½ hours later the first of the seven gates stood before us. Outside of a handful of villagers within the walls we were alone in the fortress. We climbed slowly up to the palace on the highest point. We woke a sleeping man to unlock the gates to the inner chambers, revealing the discreet quarters for the concealed maharinis. Elephant borders decorated the wall in this female chamber. Elsewhere, saturated walls of blue, pink, and golden called out with the opening of every door and the rooftop howled with a strong warm wind and afforded a far-reaching view of the valleys below. On our descent, gazing back up at the cream-colored walls with bold, thick, black stripes was impressive. We set out to walk the ramparts. They were truly impressive, stretching out along the undulating landscape as far as the eye can see. It reminded us of images we’d seen of the Great Wall of China. We did not see a single other tourist the entire day.
Jodhpur
Fri June 11 Another 5-hour bus ride brought us to the mighty fortress city of Jodhpur. As we approached the city Mehangarh Fort could be seen through the dusty haze. After attending to logistical business we took a rickshaw up to the fort. The tiny streets of the old city were chaotic but amazingly colorful – primarily blue with green trim. In fact, Jodhpur is known as the “Blue City”. In this case the houses were painted blue as a contrast to those of the Brahmins. The impressive fort sprawls across the top of a 125-meter high hill and houses a whole series of courtyards and palaces. A costumed guide took us along with a group of Israelis through all the splendor. The chambers were decorated incredibly; the views and architecture were stunning. The ornamentation (paintings, armory, silver objects, elephant howdahs, musical instruments) made an interesting tour yet I much preferred the windy isolation and solitary enchantment of Kumbhalgarh. In one direction you see the lovely see of blue that is the old city. In the other, you see the Jasmant Thanda, a stunning white marble memorial, up on the hill.
Jaisalmer
Sun June 13 We awoke early to be picked up for our desert camel trek. Our turbaned guide, Kehta, arrived to take us to the edge of town where our “steeds” awaited us. Raju, my scraggly camel for the next few hours kneeled down for me to mount. Settled comfortably in the quilted saddles, we headed out with a third camel carrying our two guides. Dark clouds obscured the sun mercifully and gave the desert a dramatic glow where rays shot through in the distance. Women searched the barren ground for firewood, children waved hello, and the cenotaphs of Bada Bagh stood out mysteriously in the background. When we arrived at the oasis we were able to examine the monuments up close. Above a reservoir the royal cenotaphs stand with their beautifully carved ceilings and equestrian reliefs. This was another of those incredible moments, walking amongst the tombs without a soul to disturb the spell. We continued on into the desert about an hour to Amar Sagar, a small villager and oasis. A small complex of Jain temples of beautifully carved sandstone graces the village. Kehta picked us up in a jeep and drove us to Lodruva, the abandoned ruins of the former ancient capital of the region.
For dinner we chose a rooftop restaurant with a good view of the golden walls of Jaisalmer fortress. At sunset we were treated to the golden illumination of the fort – just like all the tourist brochures. Magical!
Jaipur
Tues June 15 We entered the gates of old Jaipur, “the Pink City.” Burnt umber would be a better description of the deep orange/rust painted buildings here although a few are pinkish. The streets are wider than we’ve seen, but that just seems to allow more people and things to crowd into them. The famous Hawa Mahal (the Palace of Winds) spurts up in the middle of one of these grand avenues. We continued on to the city palace. The complex contains a series of courtyards, gardens, and majestic buildings. Built by Jai Singh, it is a combination of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture. In a covered patio sit 2 gigantic silver vessels in which the Maharaja would transport drinking water on his visits outside India. As a devout Hindu he could not drink unsacred water. We toured the various collections and armory before heading out to the observatory, or Jantar Mantar, built by Jai Singh in 1728. His passion for astronomy was famous and this was the largest of the five observatories he built. It is a curious but very impressive collection of modern looking structures, each with a specific astronomical purpose: measuring the stars attitudes, etc. The view from the top of the tallest was excellent – back across the palace complex to Hawa Mahal and out to the surrounding hills, dotted with forts.
Wed June 16 Today we explored the surrounding area. Our first stop was Amber Palace. Like the other tourists we opted to ride an elephant up the long ramp to the palace. Reid seemed especially to enjoy the ride. The fortress/palace of Amber was begun in 1592 by Raja Man Singh, commander of Akbar’s armies. Its pretty impressive, overlooking a lake below and featuring glittering mirrored ceilings and inlaid panals in the Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) and a labyrinth of old corridors and stairways to explore. A 15 minute walk up the hill leads to Jargarh Fort. There are expansive though bleak ramparts and the view is spectacular. Next on the fort circuit was Naharagarh – the Tiger Fort with another impressive view. We left this perch after a snack to wind back kown to the Jal Mahal, a neglected lake palace we’d seen on the way out. From a distance it has a marvelous forgotten aura, standing crumbling away on the now dried up lakebed, small trees sprouting from its rooftop. Upon closer inspection the spell fades and the perspective is lost. A stop at the royal cenotaphs at Gaitor rounded out our sightseeing day. We had another splurge dinner at the elegant Rambagh Palace Hotel. A beer in the Polo Bar made us feel like visiting British nobility in the 19th century.
Agra
Thurs June 17 Agra Fort was the first stop today. The fort’s massiveness immediately impressed. The massive 2.5 km long, 20meter thick walls surround several interesting buildings. Built by Akbar in 1565, it was his grandson Shah Jehan who had turned it into a pleasure palace. Wandering about the many audience halls and chambers was fun even after many other similar experiences. From the octagonal throne terrace you have a wonderful view across the Yamuna River to the Taj Mahal. When Shah Jehan was imprisoned here by his son, he was able to gaze across to the tomb of his beloved Mumtaz Mahal. We also peaked into the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) and Jehangir’s Palace with its more Hindu/Persian influenced architecture.
On to India’s most recognizable sight, the Taj Mahal. It has been described as the most extravagant monument ever built for love and the most beautifully proportioned building in the world. The Taj enclave is surrounded at a great distance by tall walls. One enters through a massive gate (and metal detector) and there it is, gleaming in golden in the sunset. It is stunning from a distance, reflected in a long, narrow pool before it. Four large but sleek minarets rise from each of the corners of the square platform it rests upon. It is breathtaking. Closer inspection reveals inlaid stones in beautiful, floral patterns known as pietra dura. The acoustics of the tomb chamber are superb as many visitors tested it out. We sat outside as the sun went behind clouds then popped out just before going down. I kept looking back as we left wondering if it was my last chance to gaze upon such majestic elegance.
Fri June 18 After breakfast we grabbed a bus to Fatehpur Sikri. Built by Akbar, it was the capital of the Mughal empire for 16 years before being suddenly abandoned due to a lack of a water supply. It stands today deserted yet perfectly preserved, an example of a Mughal city at the height of the empires’ splendor.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Balinese Dance (part II)
Balinese dance-drama is the signature cultural experience of most visitors to this island paradise. Last month we wrote about the history, tradition, significance, and structure of this engaging art form. This month we want to elaborate on the dances themselves. There are at least a dozen different performance travelers can attend. However, most visitors attend the 4 or 5 most commonly performed dances. Those include the Ramayana, Kecak, Barong, Legong, and Baris dances.
Most Balinese dance-drama has its origins in the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The Ramayana ballet is a regular offering. In the Ramayana the good Prince Rama loses his betrothed, Princess Sita to the evil Ravana, King of Lanka. Ravana lures Rama away with a golden deer and then carries Sita away. Hanuman the good monkey king joins with Rama in his quest to rescue Sita. Hanuman tells Sita that Rama is trying to rescue her and gives her Rama’s ring as a token. He then assists Rama in catching up to Ravana. When Rama arrives he is met by Ravana’s son Megananda, who shoots an arrow that turns into a snake which binds Rama. But Rama calls on the magical bird Garuda who helps him escape. Hanuman’s army of monkeys joins Rama in a great battle where Ravana is defeated. Good triumphs over evil and Rama returns home with Sita.
Best known to tourists, the Kecak (Monkey) dance is performed all over the island and is quite a spectacle. A choir of dozens to hundreds of men provide rhythmic, percussive, a cappella, accompaniment to the drama. Lit only by torches, they sit in large concentric circles and the drama takes place in the center. The rhythmic “chak-a-chak-a-chak” chanting literally sounds like a troop of monkeys – hence the name. The men sit cross-legged and while they chant they throw up their arms or sway and bend from the waist, all in rhythm. The Kecak had its roots in the sanghyang trance ceremony for exorcisms. It takes its story from the Ramayana when Hanuman leads his armies against the evil Ravana. Kecak is truly living theater, a blending of motion, voice, gesture, and narrative.
The Barong (sometimes called the Lion dance) is another good vs. evil drama. It is among the most sacred and important of dances and features spectacular costumes. Evil and good are represented by Rangda and Barong, though in typical Balinese mysticism, neither is wholly good or bad. Rangda is a witch, queen of the underworld. Her appearance is truly terrifying with a necklace of human entrails, large breasts, claws and tusks, and murderous eyes and laugh. Barong is Rangda’s counterpart and enemy – not really a lion, rather parts of many, mythical beasts. He is huge and splendid, is played by 2 men, and has a long beard invested with great power. The masks of both characters are invested with sacred magic and are treated with respect and reverence. They are specially wrapped (a magic shield) and stored in temples between performances.
Barong usually appears first doing kind deeds and enjoying acclaim from villagers. Rangda appears like a fury and they rush at each other and battle mightily. Eventually Rangda succeeds in stuffing her weapon (anteng – strip of white cloth) into Barang’s mouth. She shouts and celebrates but the villagers join in the attack. Barong recovers and rejoins the fight. Rangda waves her anteng above her foes sending them into madness – turning weapons upon themselves. But the attacks are not harmful because Barong has protected them with his magic. Soon all retire from the scene. Rangda retreats but the fight is inconclusive. Everyone knows the drama will be reenacted over and over just as the struggle between good and evil continues in everyone.
A fourth dance, Legong is the archetype of delicate expression. The divine dance of heavenly nymphs, it is elegant, refined, and very restrained. There are three dancers, all girls in rich costume, heavy makeup, and headdresses. The story is based on a Hindu epic poem. The Princess Rangkesari is kidnapped by the arrogant King Lasem. Rangkesari spurns Lasem’s advances so he threatens to kill her father. Rangkesari still refuses and Lasem becomes furious. A battle ensues, during which a blackbird flies in front of Lasem (a bad omen) and he is killed. The three dancers enact all the characters and the story in abstract pantomime, with stylized actions and gestures.
The Baris dance is a fighting dance using spears. It is the opposite of Lagong, powerful and masculine. The performers never wound but fight fiercely for the beauty of combat. Tumultuous but also harmonious, the Baris is a devotional dance that reenacts the traditional offering of weapons to the gods to invest them with power. A dozen warriors, heads covered with flowers and bearing magic scarves and feather-tipped spears, dance in two opposing lines. They grimace and strike heroic poses until the music becomes animated. They then enact a battle. The dancers use their facial expressions to depict their passions: admiration, wonder, surprise, rage, pleasure, and even tenderness. The music builds and the dancers become more tense. They call out, make threatening gestures, draw their krises (ceremonial daggers) and approach each other. They stop before clashing and then engage in a stylized, ballet-like duel. Eventually one side is routed and the dance ends.
The dances discussed above are the most common in tourist venues. But there are many others. They include the Barong Landung (giant puppet dance), the Oleg Tambulilingan (the bumblebee dance), Topang (mask dance), Pendat, and Cupak. Additionally, there are several trance dances, though most of those are performed on ceremonial occasions and not for tourists. The most famous are the Calonarang and Sanghyang Dedari. All are worthwhile and worth seeking out and a meaningful part of a visit to Bali.
Most Balinese dance-drama has its origins in the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The Ramayana ballet is a regular offering. In the Ramayana the good Prince Rama loses his betrothed, Princess Sita to the evil Ravana, King of Lanka. Ravana lures Rama away with a golden deer and then carries Sita away. Hanuman the good monkey king joins with Rama in his quest to rescue Sita. Hanuman tells Sita that Rama is trying to rescue her and gives her Rama’s ring as a token. He then assists Rama in catching up to Ravana. When Rama arrives he is met by Ravana’s son Megananda, who shoots an arrow that turns into a snake which binds Rama. But Rama calls on the magical bird Garuda who helps him escape. Hanuman’s army of monkeys joins Rama in a great battle where Ravana is defeated. Good triumphs over evil and Rama returns home with Sita.
Best known to tourists, the Kecak (Monkey) dance is performed all over the island and is quite a spectacle. A choir of dozens to hundreds of men provide rhythmic, percussive, a cappella, accompaniment to the drama. Lit only by torches, they sit in large concentric circles and the drama takes place in the center. The rhythmic “chak-a-chak-a-chak” chanting literally sounds like a troop of monkeys – hence the name. The men sit cross-legged and while they chant they throw up their arms or sway and bend from the waist, all in rhythm. The Kecak had its roots in the sanghyang trance ceremony for exorcisms. It takes its story from the Ramayana when Hanuman leads his armies against the evil Ravana. Kecak is truly living theater, a blending of motion, voice, gesture, and narrative.
The Barong (sometimes called the Lion dance) is another good vs. evil drama. It is among the most sacred and important of dances and features spectacular costumes. Evil and good are represented by Rangda and Barong, though in typical Balinese mysticism, neither is wholly good or bad. Rangda is a witch, queen of the underworld. Her appearance is truly terrifying with a necklace of human entrails, large breasts, claws and tusks, and murderous eyes and laugh. Barong is Rangda’s counterpart and enemy – not really a lion, rather parts of many, mythical beasts. He is huge and splendid, is played by 2 men, and has a long beard invested with great power. The masks of both characters are invested with sacred magic and are treated with respect and reverence. They are specially wrapped (a magic shield) and stored in temples between performances.
Barong usually appears first doing kind deeds and enjoying acclaim from villagers. Rangda appears like a fury and they rush at each other and battle mightily. Eventually Rangda succeeds in stuffing her weapon (anteng – strip of white cloth) into Barang’s mouth. She shouts and celebrates but the villagers join in the attack. Barong recovers and rejoins the fight. Rangda waves her anteng above her foes sending them into madness – turning weapons upon themselves. But the attacks are not harmful because Barong has protected them with his magic. Soon all retire from the scene. Rangda retreats but the fight is inconclusive. Everyone knows the drama will be reenacted over and over just as the struggle between good and evil continues in everyone.
A fourth dance, Legong is the archetype of delicate expression. The divine dance of heavenly nymphs, it is elegant, refined, and very restrained. There are three dancers, all girls in rich costume, heavy makeup, and headdresses. The story is based on a Hindu epic poem. The Princess Rangkesari is kidnapped by the arrogant King Lasem. Rangkesari spurns Lasem’s advances so he threatens to kill her father. Rangkesari still refuses and Lasem becomes furious. A battle ensues, during which a blackbird flies in front of Lasem (a bad omen) and he is killed. The three dancers enact all the characters and the story in abstract pantomime, with stylized actions and gestures.
The Baris dance is a fighting dance using spears. It is the opposite of Lagong, powerful and masculine. The performers never wound but fight fiercely for the beauty of combat. Tumultuous but also harmonious, the Baris is a devotional dance that reenacts the traditional offering of weapons to the gods to invest them with power. A dozen warriors, heads covered with flowers and bearing magic scarves and feather-tipped spears, dance in two opposing lines. They grimace and strike heroic poses until the music becomes animated. They then enact a battle. The dancers use their facial expressions to depict their passions: admiration, wonder, surprise, rage, pleasure, and even tenderness. The music builds and the dancers become more tense. They call out, make threatening gestures, draw their krises (ceremonial daggers) and approach each other. They stop before clashing and then engage in a stylized, ballet-like duel. Eventually one side is routed and the dance ends.
The dances discussed above are the most common in tourist venues. But there are many others. They include the Barong Landung (giant puppet dance), the Oleg Tambulilingan (the bumblebee dance), Topang (mask dance), Pendat, and Cupak. Additionally, there are several trance dances, though most of those are performed on ceremonial occasions and not for tourists. The most famous are the Calonarang and Sanghyang Dedari. All are worthwhile and worth seeking out and a meaningful part of a visit to Bali.
Balinese Dance-Drama
Bali has tremendous, almost magnetic aesthetic appeal for western visitors. Among the many art forms, Balinese dance is the most compelling. Perhaps it is better called dance/drama as it is an art that cannot be separated from theater (there is no Balinese word for theater).
Indigenous dance-drama is exotic, energetic, and visually sumptuous but its uniqueness lies in its accessibility. Balinese dance appeals to western aesthetic sensibilities and is therefore imminently engaging. While other Asian art forms are visually appealing, the observer quickly losses interest as the language barrier prevents much understanding. The Balinese version communicates in mime, gesture, and physically expressed emotion. The stories are easy to follow and enjoy in their entirety. Additionally, part of the appeal is its authenticity. Dance is not preserved strictly for tourist consumption but is closely connected with religion and the authentic rhythms of life on the island. Their traditions are relevant and give meaning to life. As Margaret Mead observed, “The survival of the primitive in a developed society, a characteristic of everything Balinese, shows itself in the dancing as well as in the general mode of life.” Another observer writes, “Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an almost organic need for the spiritual and physical life of the community.”
The Balinese attribute a divine origin to music and dance. It is believed that Indra, Lord of Heaven, invented dance when he created the dedari (nymphs of heaven) to dance for the pleasure of the gods. Dance-drama evolved from sacred rituals (still performed at religious events). Dance movements are bound by ancient, elaborate design, recorded on lontars (oldest written records). There is a powerful connection between life and art. There are few professional dancers on Bali. Those who perform in tourist shows are the same who dance for religious festivals.
Balinese dance has developed to a standard of technique that makes it a difficult undertaking, requiring years of special training. Strict rules are followed leaving no room for improvisation or individual style. The excellence of a performer depends on personality, emotional intensity, and expressiveness of features - not skill. Female dancers always keep their feet on the ground, expressing themselves through a vocabulary of controlled movements of arms, wrists, fingers, neck, and eyes. Male dancers are more energetic, engaging in jumping, whirling, and wild waving of limbs.
The performances that travelers enjoy are often based on Hindu classics: Ramayana or Mahabharata. To watch Balinese dance is to enter a world of religious lore and epic poetry. It is a world of colors, beauty, and fascination: an unexplored territory of visual arts for the westerner. Classic performances travelers are likely to enjoy include the Ramayana (Hindu epic tale); Legong (most refined, elegant dance; the ultimate in feminine expression); Kecak (best known; percussive male chorus accompaniment to good vs. evil story); Barong (Lion Dance – good vs. evil fight between Rangda the witch queen and mythical beast Barong); and Baris (the warrior’s dance, celebrates the beauty of combat). On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali tour we’ll be enjoying performances of the Kecak and Barong dances. Many other dances are performed and all are worthwhile. A visit to Bali is incomplete without a few evenings of dance-drama and for most, it is the signature experience.
Indigenous dance-drama is exotic, energetic, and visually sumptuous but its uniqueness lies in its accessibility. Balinese dance appeals to western aesthetic sensibilities and is therefore imminently engaging. While other Asian art forms are visually appealing, the observer quickly losses interest as the language barrier prevents much understanding. The Balinese version communicates in mime, gesture, and physically expressed emotion. The stories are easy to follow and enjoy in their entirety. Additionally, part of the appeal is its authenticity. Dance is not preserved strictly for tourist consumption but is closely connected with religion and the authentic rhythms of life on the island. Their traditions are relevant and give meaning to life. As Margaret Mead observed, “The survival of the primitive in a developed society, a characteristic of everything Balinese, shows itself in the dancing as well as in the general mode of life.” Another observer writes, “Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an almost organic need for the spiritual and physical life of the community.”
The Balinese attribute a divine origin to music and dance. It is believed that Indra, Lord of Heaven, invented dance when he created the dedari (nymphs of heaven) to dance for the pleasure of the gods. Dance-drama evolved from sacred rituals (still performed at religious events). Dance movements are bound by ancient, elaborate design, recorded on lontars (oldest written records). There is a powerful connection between life and art. There are few professional dancers on Bali. Those who perform in tourist shows are the same who dance for religious festivals.
Balinese dance has developed to a standard of technique that makes it a difficult undertaking, requiring years of special training. Strict rules are followed leaving no room for improvisation or individual style. The excellence of a performer depends on personality, emotional intensity, and expressiveness of features - not skill. Female dancers always keep their feet on the ground, expressing themselves through a vocabulary of controlled movements of arms, wrists, fingers, neck, and eyes. Male dancers are more energetic, engaging in jumping, whirling, and wild waving of limbs.
The performances that travelers enjoy are often based on Hindu classics: Ramayana or Mahabharata. To watch Balinese dance is to enter a world of religious lore and epic poetry. It is a world of colors, beauty, and fascination: an unexplored territory of visual arts for the westerner. Classic performances travelers are likely to enjoy include the Ramayana (Hindu epic tale); Legong (most refined, elegant dance; the ultimate in feminine expression); Kecak (best known; percussive male chorus accompaniment to good vs. evil story); Barong (Lion Dance – good vs. evil fight between Rangda the witch queen and mythical beast Barong); and Baris (the warrior’s dance, celebrates the beauty of combat). On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali tour we’ll be enjoying performances of the Kecak and Barong dances. Many other dances are performed and all are worthwhile. A visit to Bali is incomplete without a few evenings of dance-drama and for most, it is the signature experience.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Bangkok 101
Bangkok Thailand – the name alone evokes images of a mysterious oriental cityscape of busy streets, sidewalk vendors, bustling markets, exotic entertainments, and striking Buddhist architecture. As the capital of modern Thailand and the center of its burgeoning economy Bangkok is a multifaceted city filled with myriad delights and destinations. Known as the “Venice of the East” because of its many canals and water-bourn culture (the word Bangkok means “water-flower village”), Thais themselves refer to the city as Krung Thep, City of Angels.
Bangkok’s history is relatively brief. Following the fall of Ayuthaya (Siam’s historic capital and a World Heritage site - an easy daytrip from Bangkok) to the Burmese in the late 18th century, Siamese society was fractured and prostrate. A hero emerged, Taksin, who rallied and united the Siamese people and established a new capital at Thonburi on the Chao Phraya River. The next king, Chao Phraya Chakri (Rama I, founder of the current dynasty) moved the capital across the river and founded Bangkok in 1782. Bangkok has been Siam/Thailand’s capital and primary city ever since. Rama undertook an ambitious building program including the Grand Palace complex and Wat Phra Kaew in an attempt to recapture the lost glory of Ayuthaya. Other important Wats and palaces followed in successive decades. From a western perspective, Bangkok burst into the public consciousness during the Vietnam War as American GIs flocked here on leave. The Southeast Asian economic boom of the 1980s and ‘90s fueled the explosive expansion of Bangkok into the teeming metropolis of 10 million it is today.
Bangkok’s top sights are clearly the Grand Palace complex and Wat Pho. The highlight of a Grand Palace visit is Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha. The complex is a jaw-dropping collection of spectacular buildings, monuments, and statues. The entrance is guarded by two fantastic yaksha, or mythical giants. The compound walls are lined with beautifully restored murals of the Ramakian (Thai version of the Ramayana). The grounds are punctuated by multiple stupas, with their dramatically and diversely decorated prangs (spires). Many stupas are ringed by elaborate mythical warriors. The bots (temples buildings) are decorated by colored tiles and tiny mirrors – quite dazzling. Brightly gilded mythical statues add to the fantastical, mystical ambiance.
Next door Wat Pho is Bangkok’s oldest temple. Pho is another complex of beautiful bots and stupas (more than 100) and home to Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha. The striking, 150 foot long, gilded gold statue barely fits in its bot. The soles of the feet are particularly interesting, displaying 108 auspicious laksana (characteristics of the Buddha) in mother of pearl. Thailand’s largest collection of Buddha images (almost 400) is also housed here. Lastly, Wat Pho is the national center for traditional Thai medicine, including Thai massage. There is no better place in the country for this obligatory experience. For about $10, one can experience 90 minutes of therapeutic, relaxing heaven.
Bangkok’s third signature sight is Wat Arun – the Temple of the Dawn. Its 266 foot Khmer-style prang dominates the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. Wat Arun was founded by Taksin but the tower itself was built by Ramas II and III in the early 19th century. One of Arun’s unique and pleasing features is its creative design and decoration. The materials used are a lesson in early Asian recycling. The entire stupa is decorated with broken Chinese porcelain. Eighteenth century Chinese trading ships used tons of broken porcelain as ballast, providing inexpensive, readily available materials.
After the Big Three, Bangkok boasts dozens of additional, interesting wats and sights. Among them is Wat Saket. Located atop an artificial hill, together they are known as the Golden Mount. Panoramic views of the city, Buddhist prayer wheels and bells, and the golden wat itself reward those who brave the winding hike up the hill. Wat Benchamabophit is a stirring example of modern Thai architecture and is made of Carrara marble. Wat Traimit in Chinatown contains the impressive 10-foot, 5+ ton solid gold Buddha. Dusit Palace Park contains several worthwhile sights. A green oasis in the concrete metropolis, Dusit displays photogenic gardens, a pleasant zoo, Vimanmek Teak Mansion, Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, the Royal Elephant Museum, and an Ancient Cloth Museum. Nearby is Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Bangkok boasts several museums as well, including the National Musuem (religious sculpture) and the Royal Barge Museum. Monuments worth a look are the Art Deco-style Democracy Monument, the Rama V Memorial (King Chulalongkorn of “The King and I” fame), and the Erawan Shrine with its attendant musicians and dancers. The Jim Thompson House rounds out a Bangkok visit nicely. American Jim Thompson was essentially the father of the Thai silk industry. An interesting character, Thompson appreciated Thai art and culture and his home is a great example of residential architecture and Thai art.
No discussion of Thailand’s capital is complete with mentioning its tremendous shopping opportunities. First on any Bangkok shopping list should be clothing and textiles. Inexpensive clothing, both local fashions and designer knock-offs are ubiquitous. Thai silk is famous the world over and Bangkok tailors are a real bargain. Handicrafts are equally plentiful and varied. Teak carvings, masks, ceramics, baskets, wall hangings, pottery, handbags, table linens, and even stuffed animals are just the beginning. Gems and jewelry are also a great value. The shopping experience itself can be a recreational endeavor here. Markets abound. The most famous are the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Chatuchak Weekend Market, Sampeng Lane, Nakhon Kasem (electronics), and Phahurat (textiles). Additionally, almost every neighborhood boasts a food market and there are several flower and/or plant markets. Although it has become primarily a tourist attraction, the Damnoen Saduak floating market is a famous daytrip.
Bangkok is one of Asia’s great entertainment capitals. As the center of the country’s music industry, the city offers many live music venues, both traditional and western. For those interested, dance clubs and movie theaters are everywhere. For traditional performing arts Chalermkung Royal Theater offers performances of khohn (masked dance-drama). Natayasala presents the ancient art of Thai puppetry. Classical Thai dance can be enjoyed at the National Theater, the Thailand Cultural Center, and Dusit Palace Park. Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing, is an exciting mix of boxing, ultimate fighting, and martial arts (but much of the show is in the stands). While there are venues all over the city the best boxers fight at Lumphini and Ratchadamnoen Stadiums.
In addition to the sights everyone wants to see, we at Imprint Tours are always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-track, out-of-the-way places to get a taste of real cultural life. Bangkok offers several options for the savvy traveler as well as some very unusual activities.
Our favorite way to escape the crush of urban Bangkok is to take a klong (canal) tour of the Thonburi district. Thonburi retains the feel of village Thailand despite being surrounded by ultra-urban Bangkok. Once you leave the river in your longtail boat you enter a different world – one of real, workaday Thai life. The visitor experiences the true waterborne nature of Bangkok life. One sees children playing, swimming, and bathing; people fishing, doing laundry, cooking and/or eating a meal – all on the water. Beautiful teak mansions sit side by side with ramshackle hovels. Temple compounds and schools provide public areas for community gathering. Extremely poor people smile and wave with no apparent envy of our western affluence. On our Tantalizing Thailand tour we organize a dusk klong tour, a great time for quiet people watching and photographing. Another way to get even deeper into “village Bangkok” is on a bicycle. Several tour operators feature half-day cycling trips to the Bang Bua Thong or Bang Kra Jao neighborhoods where visitors are exposed to real Thai village life.
Another urban excursion that exposes travelers to rural life is Ko Kred. This artificial island is like a time capsule. With no roads, the island is traversed only by walkways. The island is famous for its fruit and its terracotta pottery. The island is mostly populated by ethnic Mon villagers. Traditional Mon life is on display with their traditional wooden stilt houses interspersed among the orchards. Some pleasant riverside wats are worth a look, especially Wat Paramaiyikawat (or Wat Poramai).
Lastly, Bangkok is famous for its night life. Much of it is seedy and driven by the sex industry. But even straight-laced visitors can get a “sanitized” glimpse of late-night Bangkok at the Kathoey cabarets. Several venues are tourist friendly and one can see choreographed stage shows of Broadway hits and lip-synched hits performed by kathoeys transvestite “lady boy”) in lavish, sequined costumes. Alternative Bangkok also includes the Forensic Medicine Museum with its preserved cadavers, body parts, and clothing from famous Thai murders. There is also a Museum of Counterfeit Goods, a Corrections Museum, and a snake farm.
Whatever one’s tastes or interests Bangkok offers much to engage the traveler. Access is easy via a brand new international airport and good, inexpensive public transportation makes getting around a breeze. And like all of Southeast Asia, compared to western destination cities, Bangkok continues to be a tremendous travel value.
Bangkok’s history is relatively brief. Following the fall of Ayuthaya (Siam’s historic capital and a World Heritage site - an easy daytrip from Bangkok) to the Burmese in the late 18th century, Siamese society was fractured and prostrate. A hero emerged, Taksin, who rallied and united the Siamese people and established a new capital at Thonburi on the Chao Phraya River. The next king, Chao Phraya Chakri (Rama I, founder of the current dynasty) moved the capital across the river and founded Bangkok in 1782. Bangkok has been Siam/Thailand’s capital and primary city ever since. Rama undertook an ambitious building program including the Grand Palace complex and Wat Phra Kaew in an attempt to recapture the lost glory of Ayuthaya. Other important Wats and palaces followed in successive decades. From a western perspective, Bangkok burst into the public consciousness during the Vietnam War as American GIs flocked here on leave. The Southeast Asian economic boom of the 1980s and ‘90s fueled the explosive expansion of Bangkok into the teeming metropolis of 10 million it is today.
Bangkok’s top sights are clearly the Grand Palace complex and Wat Pho. The highlight of a Grand Palace visit is Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha. The complex is a jaw-dropping collection of spectacular buildings, monuments, and statues. The entrance is guarded by two fantastic yaksha, or mythical giants. The compound walls are lined with beautifully restored murals of the Ramakian (Thai version of the Ramayana). The grounds are punctuated by multiple stupas, with their dramatically and diversely decorated prangs (spires). Many stupas are ringed by elaborate mythical warriors. The bots (temples buildings) are decorated by colored tiles and tiny mirrors – quite dazzling. Brightly gilded mythical statues add to the fantastical, mystical ambiance.
Next door Wat Pho is Bangkok’s oldest temple. Pho is another complex of beautiful bots and stupas (more than 100) and home to Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha. The striking, 150 foot long, gilded gold statue barely fits in its bot. The soles of the feet are particularly interesting, displaying 108 auspicious laksana (characteristics of the Buddha) in mother of pearl. Thailand’s largest collection of Buddha images (almost 400) is also housed here. Lastly, Wat Pho is the national center for traditional Thai medicine, including Thai massage. There is no better place in the country for this obligatory experience. For about $10, one can experience 90 minutes of therapeutic, relaxing heaven.
Bangkok’s third signature sight is Wat Arun – the Temple of the Dawn. Its 266 foot Khmer-style prang dominates the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. Wat Arun was founded by Taksin but the tower itself was built by Ramas II and III in the early 19th century. One of Arun’s unique and pleasing features is its creative design and decoration. The materials used are a lesson in early Asian recycling. The entire stupa is decorated with broken Chinese porcelain. Eighteenth century Chinese trading ships used tons of broken porcelain as ballast, providing inexpensive, readily available materials.
After the Big Three, Bangkok boasts dozens of additional, interesting wats and sights. Among them is Wat Saket. Located atop an artificial hill, together they are known as the Golden Mount. Panoramic views of the city, Buddhist prayer wheels and bells, and the golden wat itself reward those who brave the winding hike up the hill. Wat Benchamabophit is a stirring example of modern Thai architecture and is made of Carrara marble. Wat Traimit in Chinatown contains the impressive 10-foot, 5+ ton solid gold Buddha. Dusit Palace Park contains several worthwhile sights. A green oasis in the concrete metropolis, Dusit displays photogenic gardens, a pleasant zoo, Vimanmek Teak Mansion, Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, the Royal Elephant Museum, and an Ancient Cloth Museum. Nearby is Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Bangkok boasts several museums as well, including the National Musuem (religious sculpture) and the Royal Barge Museum. Monuments worth a look are the Art Deco-style Democracy Monument, the Rama V Memorial (King Chulalongkorn of “The King and I” fame), and the Erawan Shrine with its attendant musicians and dancers. The Jim Thompson House rounds out a Bangkok visit nicely. American Jim Thompson was essentially the father of the Thai silk industry. An interesting character, Thompson appreciated Thai art and culture and his home is a great example of residential architecture and Thai art.
No discussion of Thailand’s capital is complete with mentioning its tremendous shopping opportunities. First on any Bangkok shopping list should be clothing and textiles. Inexpensive clothing, both local fashions and designer knock-offs are ubiquitous. Thai silk is famous the world over and Bangkok tailors are a real bargain. Handicrafts are equally plentiful and varied. Teak carvings, masks, ceramics, baskets, wall hangings, pottery, handbags, table linens, and even stuffed animals are just the beginning. Gems and jewelry are also a great value. The shopping experience itself can be a recreational endeavor here. Markets abound. The most famous are the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Chatuchak Weekend Market, Sampeng Lane, Nakhon Kasem (electronics), and Phahurat (textiles). Additionally, almost every neighborhood boasts a food market and there are several flower and/or plant markets. Although it has become primarily a tourist attraction, the Damnoen Saduak floating market is a famous daytrip.
Bangkok is one of Asia’s great entertainment capitals. As the center of the country’s music industry, the city offers many live music venues, both traditional and western. For those interested, dance clubs and movie theaters are everywhere. For traditional performing arts Chalermkung Royal Theater offers performances of khohn (masked dance-drama). Natayasala presents the ancient art of Thai puppetry. Classical Thai dance can be enjoyed at the National Theater, the Thailand Cultural Center, and Dusit Palace Park. Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing, is an exciting mix of boxing, ultimate fighting, and martial arts (but much of the show is in the stands). While there are venues all over the city the best boxers fight at Lumphini and Ratchadamnoen Stadiums.
In addition to the sights everyone wants to see, we at Imprint Tours are always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-track, out-of-the-way places to get a taste of real cultural life. Bangkok offers several options for the savvy traveler as well as some very unusual activities.
Our favorite way to escape the crush of urban Bangkok is to take a klong (canal) tour of the Thonburi district. Thonburi retains the feel of village Thailand despite being surrounded by ultra-urban Bangkok. Once you leave the river in your longtail boat you enter a different world – one of real, workaday Thai life. The visitor experiences the true waterborne nature of Bangkok life. One sees children playing, swimming, and bathing; people fishing, doing laundry, cooking and/or eating a meal – all on the water. Beautiful teak mansions sit side by side with ramshackle hovels. Temple compounds and schools provide public areas for community gathering. Extremely poor people smile and wave with no apparent envy of our western affluence. On our Tantalizing Thailand tour we organize a dusk klong tour, a great time for quiet people watching and photographing. Another way to get even deeper into “village Bangkok” is on a bicycle. Several tour operators feature half-day cycling trips to the Bang Bua Thong or Bang Kra Jao neighborhoods where visitors are exposed to real Thai village life.
Another urban excursion that exposes travelers to rural life is Ko Kred. This artificial island is like a time capsule. With no roads, the island is traversed only by walkways. The island is famous for its fruit and its terracotta pottery. The island is mostly populated by ethnic Mon villagers. Traditional Mon life is on display with their traditional wooden stilt houses interspersed among the orchards. Some pleasant riverside wats are worth a look, especially Wat Paramaiyikawat (or Wat Poramai).
Lastly, Bangkok is famous for its night life. Much of it is seedy and driven by the sex industry. But even straight-laced visitors can get a “sanitized” glimpse of late-night Bangkok at the Kathoey cabarets. Several venues are tourist friendly and one can see choreographed stage shows of Broadway hits and lip-synched hits performed by kathoeys transvestite “lady boy”) in lavish, sequined costumes. Alternative Bangkok also includes the Forensic Medicine Museum with its preserved cadavers, body parts, and clothing from famous Thai murders. There is also a Museum of Counterfeit Goods, a Corrections Museum, and a snake farm.
Whatever one’s tastes or interests Bangkok offers much to engage the traveler. Access is easy via a brand new international airport and good, inexpensive public transportation makes getting around a breeze. And like all of Southeast Asia, compared to western destination cities, Bangkok continues to be a tremendous travel value.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Elephants in Thailand
Whether traveling independently or on a tour, an elephant encounter is almost certainly a part of a trip to Thailand. Modern Thais recognize our western fascination with the massive pachyderms and camps, shows, and trekking have proliferated with the advance of tourism. But the historical role of elephants in Thai society has been much more than entertainment for tourists. Elephants have long been an important element of Thai spiritual, cultural, and economic life.
As a significant presence in both Hindu and Buddhist mythology elephants hold a place of profound spiritual significance. The Hindu deity Ganesh, with his elephant’s head, is the god of knowledge and remover of obstacles and is depicted on temples throughout the country. Another Hindu deity, Indra is often shown with his three-headed elephant mount Erawan. In Buddhist lore the future Buddha’s mother was only able to conceive after dreaming of a white elephant. The legend is the source of the elephant’s sacred/royal status in Thailand. Throughout Thai history rare white elephants were considered sacred and, by law, belonged only to the king. The 13th century King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai furthered the special status by adopting the white elephant as a symbol of greatness and divinity. The current Thai king owns twelve.
Official white elephant status is conferred only after passing a battery of rigorous physical and behavioral tests. A successful candidate is presented to the king in an elaborate ceremony which includes a parade and anointing with holy water. Our expression “white elephant” probably has its origins in the legend that Thai kings once presented enemies with actual white elephants. Elephants were and are expensive to maintain. Since white elephants were sacred they could not be used for labor, thus making an undue burden for those having received them.
Beyond their symbolic role Thai elephants have long provided a practical benefit. Elephants were valuable resources for warfare, providing formidable physical and psychological advantages. Nineteenth century king Rama IV (of “The King and I” fame) really did offer Abraham Lincoln elephants to use in the Civil War. Elephants have also been tremendous beasts of burden, helping to move massive stones, clear forests, and carry timber. Domesticated elephants are assigned their own mahout (trainer, keeper, and driver). Training begins at age 4 and progresses very gradually, slowly building trust, over a dozen years. In that time the elephant learns about 40 commands. At age 16 the elephant is ready to labor for the next 35 to 45 years.
Recent events have made the plight of Thailand’s elephants precarious. Ironically, the timber industry has proved to be a negative factor. Mechanized logging has rapidly destroyed elephant habitat and overuse has led to a commercial logging ban in 1989. The wild elephant population has been reduced to under 2000 while the domestic population, around 3000 (from a total population of 15,000 in 1984), has been made largely redundant. Unemployment has forced many mahouts to turn their animals loose. The freed beasts become nuisances and are frequently hunted and killed. Ecotourism appears to be one of the only sustainable sources of elephant employment remaining in Thailand.
As part of our commitment to responsible travel, Imprint Tours’ Tantalizing Thailand visits the Thai Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang. Originally established as Thailand’s first elephant training center, the ECC has emphasized elephant conservation since opening their current center in 1992. Entrance proceeds help finance the elephant hospital which cares for sick, abused, and abandoned elephants. We arrive to see the elephants bathing in the river, then enjoy the elephant show (transporting logs, demonstrating skills, painting, and even making music), and enjoy a jungle ride. The ECC also offers a unique home-stay program where participants spend up to three days learning to be temporary mahouts. www.changthai.com
As a significant presence in both Hindu and Buddhist mythology elephants hold a place of profound spiritual significance. The Hindu deity Ganesh, with his elephant’s head, is the god of knowledge and remover of obstacles and is depicted on temples throughout the country. Another Hindu deity, Indra is often shown with his three-headed elephant mount Erawan. In Buddhist lore the future Buddha’s mother was only able to conceive after dreaming of a white elephant. The legend is the source of the elephant’s sacred/royal status in Thailand. Throughout Thai history rare white elephants were considered sacred and, by law, belonged only to the king. The 13th century King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai furthered the special status by adopting the white elephant as a symbol of greatness and divinity. The current Thai king owns twelve.
Official white elephant status is conferred only after passing a battery of rigorous physical and behavioral tests. A successful candidate is presented to the king in an elaborate ceremony which includes a parade and anointing with holy water. Our expression “white elephant” probably has its origins in the legend that Thai kings once presented enemies with actual white elephants. Elephants were and are expensive to maintain. Since white elephants were sacred they could not be used for labor, thus making an undue burden for those having received them.
Beyond their symbolic role Thai elephants have long provided a practical benefit. Elephants were valuable resources for warfare, providing formidable physical and psychological advantages. Nineteenth century king Rama IV (of “The King and I” fame) really did offer Abraham Lincoln elephants to use in the Civil War. Elephants have also been tremendous beasts of burden, helping to move massive stones, clear forests, and carry timber. Domesticated elephants are assigned their own mahout (trainer, keeper, and driver). Training begins at age 4 and progresses very gradually, slowly building trust, over a dozen years. In that time the elephant learns about 40 commands. At age 16 the elephant is ready to labor for the next 35 to 45 years.
Recent events have made the plight of Thailand’s elephants precarious. Ironically, the timber industry has proved to be a negative factor. Mechanized logging has rapidly destroyed elephant habitat and overuse has led to a commercial logging ban in 1989. The wild elephant population has been reduced to under 2000 while the domestic population, around 3000 (from a total population of 15,000 in 1984), has been made largely redundant. Unemployment has forced many mahouts to turn their animals loose. The freed beasts become nuisances and are frequently hunted and killed. Ecotourism appears to be one of the only sustainable sources of elephant employment remaining in Thailand.
As part of our commitment to responsible travel, Imprint Tours’ Tantalizing Thailand visits the Thai Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang. Originally established as Thailand’s first elephant training center, the ECC has emphasized elephant conservation since opening their current center in 1992. Entrance proceeds help finance the elephant hospital which cares for sick, abused, and abandoned elephants. We arrive to see the elephants bathing in the river, then enjoy the elephant show (transporting logs, demonstrating skills, painting, and even making music), and enjoy a jungle ride. The ECC also offers a unique home-stay program where participants spend up to three days learning to be temporary mahouts. www.changthai.com
Balinese Cremations
The accessibility of Bali’s traditional culture sets it apart as a travel destination. Visitors are not only welcomed but encouraged to attend temple festivals. Balinese dance-drama, perhaps the island’s most famous attribute, remains an authentic part of Balinese religious and social life yet is still performed with enthusiasm for tourists. Of all the cultural events available to travelers the greatest spectacle is a cremation. Although it may seem strange to westerners, Balinese cremations are very celebratory and public occasions. Think more wake than funeral and prepare to be engaged by the “more the merrier” attitude of the local participants.
A cremation day is characterized more by fun and laughter than mourning – they are liberating the soul of the departed, freeing them to reincarnate. According to Bali’s unique form of Hinduism, the body is only a shell; the vessel of the soul. After death the soul lingers near the body until being liberated by fire. Therefore the ceremony is a big send off. The Balinese look forward to it, often make provision for it during life, and an ostentatious event gains prestige for the family. Expenses are often enormous with priest’s fees, costly structures, offerings, and food and entertainment provided for guests. Often a family of limited means must wait, sometimes for years, to save enough money.
Upon death, elaborate religious and purification rites are observed, lasting several days. The body is then taken to a cemetery and buried. Once the family has marshaled enough resources a priest determines an auspicious day for the cremation and the body is exhumed. An effigy is made to contain the soul and it is cared for until the cremation. On the eve of cremation the effigy is presented to a priest for final blessing.
The next day the body is placed in an elaborately designed and decorated tower for transport. As many as 75 men are required to carry it. When all the preparations are ready and guests have been feasted, a grand procession starts toward the cremation grounds. Attended by music, dancers, revelers, and women carrying effigies, the tower is turned, spun, and whirled to confuse the spirit and prevent it from reentering the body. Upon arrival at the grounds the body is brought down a ramp from the tower and placed in an animal-shaped sarcophagus which in turn is placed on a pyre under a pavilion. Family come forward to honor the deceased, a priest recites prayers, holy water is poured over the sarcophagus, offerings and tributes are added to the pyre, the soul effigy is added, and after a final blessing all is set ablaze. Throughout the entire affair there is no hysteria and, by western standards, little reverence. Since the body is merely a vessel the ceremony is attended by much joking, laughing, and even talking to the corpse. Much later, when all is consumed, the ashes are placed in an urn, a new procession is formed, and the family and attendees march to the sea. There the ashes are dumped and the family bathes in the water for ritual cleansing.
As suggested above, perhaps the most remarkable feature of a Balinese cremation and Balinese culture in general is the way travelers are encouraged to participate. All western sensibilities of voyeurism must be suspended. There is no feeling of intrusion. While one cannot plan long range for a cremation, on Imprint’s Beautiful Bali tour we have deliberately structured our itinerary to allow maximum flexibility for attending a cremation as an included tour activity. A few weeks before the tour we will consult the Balinese calendar. It is very likely that at least one cremation will take place during the fortnight of the tour. With the exception of days 3-5 (when we fly to Jogjakarta on neighboring Java), we will be able to accommodate a cremation excursion on any day of the tour.*
*Provided the cremation is within reasonable driving distance.
A cremation day is characterized more by fun and laughter than mourning – they are liberating the soul of the departed, freeing them to reincarnate. According to Bali’s unique form of Hinduism, the body is only a shell; the vessel of the soul. After death the soul lingers near the body until being liberated by fire. Therefore the ceremony is a big send off. The Balinese look forward to it, often make provision for it during life, and an ostentatious event gains prestige for the family. Expenses are often enormous with priest’s fees, costly structures, offerings, and food and entertainment provided for guests. Often a family of limited means must wait, sometimes for years, to save enough money.
Upon death, elaborate religious and purification rites are observed, lasting several days. The body is then taken to a cemetery and buried. Once the family has marshaled enough resources a priest determines an auspicious day for the cremation and the body is exhumed. An effigy is made to contain the soul and it is cared for until the cremation. On the eve of cremation the effigy is presented to a priest for final blessing.
The next day the body is placed in an elaborately designed and decorated tower for transport. As many as 75 men are required to carry it. When all the preparations are ready and guests have been feasted, a grand procession starts toward the cremation grounds. Attended by music, dancers, revelers, and women carrying effigies, the tower is turned, spun, and whirled to confuse the spirit and prevent it from reentering the body. Upon arrival at the grounds the body is brought down a ramp from the tower and placed in an animal-shaped sarcophagus which in turn is placed on a pyre under a pavilion. Family come forward to honor the deceased, a priest recites prayers, holy water is poured over the sarcophagus, offerings and tributes are added to the pyre, the soul effigy is added, and after a final blessing all is set ablaze. Throughout the entire affair there is no hysteria and, by western standards, little reverence. Since the body is merely a vessel the ceremony is attended by much joking, laughing, and even talking to the corpse. Much later, when all is consumed, the ashes are placed in an urn, a new procession is formed, and the family and attendees march to the sea. There the ashes are dumped and the family bathes in the water for ritual cleansing.
As suggested above, perhaps the most remarkable feature of a Balinese cremation and Balinese culture in general is the way travelers are encouraged to participate. All western sensibilities of voyeurism must be suspended. There is no feeling of intrusion. While one cannot plan long range for a cremation, on Imprint’s Beautiful Bali tour we have deliberately structured our itinerary to allow maximum flexibility for attending a cremation as an included tour activity. A few weeks before the tour we will consult the Balinese calendar. It is very likely that at least one cremation will take place during the fortnight of the tour. With the exception of days 3-5 (when we fly to Jogjakarta on neighboring Java), we will be able to accommodate a cremation excursion on any day of the tour.*
*Provided the cremation is within reasonable driving distance.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Undiscovered Amed (from July 2009 Newsletter)
At Imprint Tours we pride ourselves in finding destinations that are away from the typical commercial tour itinerary. One such location is Amed, on Bali’s east coast. The area has avoided over-development and this collection of sea-side villages is one of Bali’s unspoiled jewels. Amed, named for one of its 10 villages, is an 8-mile stretch of lovely bays, black-sand pebble beaches, and stunning views. Although development is happening, Amed remains, for the present, a place of quiet refuge. Even the most developed of the villages remains low-key. And because it remains just off the tourist radar it is a great value destination.
Activities in Amed naturally center on the water. Some of Bali’s best diving and snorkeling are found along the reef just a few yards out from shore. The water is crystal clear and the reef accommodates multiple species of coral, sponges, and a high density of tropical fish. The current is gentle and safe and access is extremely easy from shore. For serious divers Gili Selang, the eastern-most tip of the island and two accessible shipwrecks provide more challenging dives. Certification courses are available and two-dive trips with all equipment are around $60. Tulamben, Bali’s most popular dive site due to the 400-foot shipwreck Liberty, is also accessible. While Amed lacks the golden sand beaches of the south its pebble beaches are nonetheless picturesque, lined with colorful outrigger fishing boats.
Apart from water-oriented activities, Amed is mostly for relaxing. Most mid-range hotels boast a swimming pool and spa. Walks along the beach are lovely. Sunrise and sunset are dynamic and the views in every direction are memorable. In general, the restaurants serve food of a very high standard. There is live music or Balinese dance available 4-5 nights per week. One can observe the processing of sea salt, the traditional industry of the region. The process is quite interesting and Amed salt has a reputation for excellent flavor. Lastly, the scenic drive south of Amed to Ujung is one of the most beautiful and remote on Bali. Dramatic coastal vistas and beach-ringed coves are revealed by every turn in the windy road. Additionally, one gets a glimpse of real Balinese village life, untouched by tourism. One sees villagers involved in carving boats, weaving cotton fabrics, or cultivating fruit, corn, or peanuts.
Ultimately, Amed is not a place to DO, but rather a place to BE. When one arrives the first reaction might be to wonder what you’ll find to do after the first day. But as the somnambulant pulse of the area seeps into your own biorhythms you’ll begin to enjoy genuine relaxation. The outside world seems to matter less and less and a planned 2-day visit stretches to 3, 4, 5, . . . .
On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali Tour, we spend 3 nights and two full days in Amed. One day is set aside for pure relaxation – no tour activities scheduled. The second day we’ve hired the sailing yacht Condor for the day. We’ll spend the day on the water; sailing, snorkeling, swimming, picnicking and enjoying the entire length of the Amed coast. Our tour hotel, Pura Wisata, boasts 2 sea-view swimming pools, in-house diving operators, and a relaxing spa. On our arrival day we enjoy a sea-side/pool-side lunch and observe a class of Balinese children learning traditional dance just outside of Ujung before driving to Amed via the dramatic coast road described above. Prepare to unwind.
Activities in Amed naturally center on the water. Some of Bali’s best diving and snorkeling are found along the reef just a few yards out from shore. The water is crystal clear and the reef accommodates multiple species of coral, sponges, and a high density of tropical fish. The current is gentle and safe and access is extremely easy from shore. For serious divers Gili Selang, the eastern-most tip of the island and two accessible shipwrecks provide more challenging dives. Certification courses are available and two-dive trips with all equipment are around $60. Tulamben, Bali’s most popular dive site due to the 400-foot shipwreck Liberty, is also accessible. While Amed lacks the golden sand beaches of the south its pebble beaches are nonetheless picturesque, lined with colorful outrigger fishing boats.
Apart from water-oriented activities, Amed is mostly for relaxing. Most mid-range hotels boast a swimming pool and spa. Walks along the beach are lovely. Sunrise and sunset are dynamic and the views in every direction are memorable. In general, the restaurants serve food of a very high standard. There is live music or Balinese dance available 4-5 nights per week. One can observe the processing of sea salt, the traditional industry of the region. The process is quite interesting and Amed salt has a reputation for excellent flavor. Lastly, the scenic drive south of Amed to Ujung is one of the most beautiful and remote on Bali. Dramatic coastal vistas and beach-ringed coves are revealed by every turn in the windy road. Additionally, one gets a glimpse of real Balinese village life, untouched by tourism. One sees villagers involved in carving boats, weaving cotton fabrics, or cultivating fruit, corn, or peanuts.
Ultimately, Amed is not a place to DO, but rather a place to BE. When one arrives the first reaction might be to wonder what you’ll find to do after the first day. But as the somnambulant pulse of the area seeps into your own biorhythms you’ll begin to enjoy genuine relaxation. The outside world seems to matter less and less and a planned 2-day visit stretches to 3, 4, 5, . . . .
On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali Tour, we spend 3 nights and two full days in Amed. One day is set aside for pure relaxation – no tour activities scheduled. The second day we’ve hired the sailing yacht Condor for the day. We’ll spend the day on the water; sailing, snorkeling, swimming, picnicking and enjoying the entire length of the Amed coast. Our tour hotel, Pura Wisata, boasts 2 sea-view swimming pools, in-house diving operators, and a relaxing spa. On our arrival day we enjoy a sea-side/pool-side lunch and observe a class of Balinese children learning traditional dance just outside of Ujung before driving to Amed via the dramatic coast road described above. Prepare to unwind.
Khao Sok NP (from July 2009 newsletter)
Extraordinary, stunning Khao Sok National Park is composed of 400+ square miles of rugged limestone mountains and lush tropical rainforest. One of Thiailand’s hidden treasures; its relative remoteness helps insure its status as an off-the-beaten-track, undiscovered treat. The centerpiece is vast Chiaw Lan Lake. Over 100 miles long, it was created by the Ratchaprapha dam in 1982. Often called Thailand’s Guilin for its karst landscape, it is characterized by limestone outcroppings, similar to those in more famous Phang-Nga bay. However, these reach a height of over 3000 feet, more than triple the size of the Phang-Nga formations. The dramatically vertical peaks, draped with verdant jungle vegetation provide the visual backdrop for every breathtaking vista as well as create over 100 islands in the lake. Many waterfalls splash over limestone cliffs, adding to the visual splendor. One guidebook describes it as stepping into a “George of the Jungle” movie.
The park offers several engaging activities. Hiking is the most popular with trails leading to Sip-Et Chan, Than Sawan, and Than Kloy waterfalls (3-6 miles). Several lake-side caves can also be reached on foot or by boat. Possible wildlife spotting includes Malayan and Asiatic black bears, leopards, serow, banteng, civets, loris, wild boar, guar, deer, and even wild elephants and the occasional tiger. One is almost sure to see langurs, gibbons, hornbills, and flying lizards. KS is also home to an additional 150+ species of birds. Fauna includes lianas, bamboo, ferns, rattan (including giant rattan), and the famous Rafflesia kerrii (or wild lotus), the world’s second largest flower. The “blooms” can reach a staggering 32 inches in diameter. Boats can be hired for exploring the coves and caves along Chiaw Lan’s shores. Bikes and motorbikes can be rented for those wishing to explore further afield. A variety of guided tours and treks are available and elephant trekking has a good reputation here.
Khao Sok is remote enough to be off the usual tourist track. Small roads and rustic accommodations keep commercial tour companies away and less than convenient public transportation keeps the flow of independent travelers light. Even so, there is a visitor center with an exhibition of KS highlights and rudimentary trail maps for hikers. Most hiking trails originate here. There is also a tourist village with several bungalow operators, mini-markets, email centers, laundry, message center, and bike/motorbike rentals. The best time to visit is during the dry season, late December to May.
The amazing natural wonders of southern Thailand should be on everyone’s Southeast Asian list of can’t miss sights. If you’d like to enjoy them without the tourist crush of Phang Nga bay or the parks of the northern peninsula, Khao Sok is perfect for you.
Imprint Tours is one of the only tour companies that takes its hardy tour members to Khao Sok. We organize a jungle trek with a local nature interpreter, take a bamboo raft excursion, visit a lake-side cave, and do a sunset cruise on the lake. But the highlight by far is staying at a floating lodge in the middle of the lake. Step off your bamboo porch directly into the refreshing water of the lake, paddle around in the free kayaks, or just relax on a Thai ax pillow in front of your bamboo bungalow. However, the real magic begins after nightfall when the silence becomes absolute except for the occasional calls of the living jungle and complete darkness reveals the milky way in all its glory. The towering karst formations bathed only in starlight are a sight never to be forgotten. Midnight swim anyone?
The park offers several engaging activities. Hiking is the most popular with trails leading to Sip-Et Chan, Than Sawan, and Than Kloy waterfalls (3-6 miles). Several lake-side caves can also be reached on foot or by boat. Possible wildlife spotting includes Malayan and Asiatic black bears, leopards, serow, banteng, civets, loris, wild boar, guar, deer, and even wild elephants and the occasional tiger. One is almost sure to see langurs, gibbons, hornbills, and flying lizards. KS is also home to an additional 150+ species of birds. Fauna includes lianas, bamboo, ferns, rattan (including giant rattan), and the famous Rafflesia kerrii (or wild lotus), the world’s second largest flower. The “blooms” can reach a staggering 32 inches in diameter. Boats can be hired for exploring the coves and caves along Chiaw Lan’s shores. Bikes and motorbikes can be rented for those wishing to explore further afield. A variety of guided tours and treks are available and elephant trekking has a good reputation here.
Khao Sok is remote enough to be off the usual tourist track. Small roads and rustic accommodations keep commercial tour companies away and less than convenient public transportation keeps the flow of independent travelers light. Even so, there is a visitor center with an exhibition of KS highlights and rudimentary trail maps for hikers. Most hiking trails originate here. There is also a tourist village with several bungalow operators, mini-markets, email centers, laundry, message center, and bike/motorbike rentals. The best time to visit is during the dry season, late December to May.
The amazing natural wonders of southern Thailand should be on everyone’s Southeast Asian list of can’t miss sights. If you’d like to enjoy them without the tourist crush of Phang Nga bay or the parks of the northern peninsula, Khao Sok is perfect for you.
Imprint Tours is one of the only tour companies that takes its hardy tour members to Khao Sok. We organize a jungle trek with a local nature interpreter, take a bamboo raft excursion, visit a lake-side cave, and do a sunset cruise on the lake. But the highlight by far is staying at a floating lodge in the middle of the lake. Step off your bamboo porch directly into the refreshing water of the lake, paddle around in the free kayaks, or just relax on a Thai ax pillow in front of your bamboo bungalow. However, the real magic begins after nightfall when the silence becomes absolute except for the occasional calls of the living jungle and complete darkness reveals the milky way in all its glory. The towering karst formations bathed only in starlight are a sight never to be forgotten. Midnight swim anyone?
Value Part II
Although I just wrote about the tremendous value of Southeast Asian travel in May, having just returned from 10 weeks of tours in Europe I feel compelled to sing the praises of inexpensive Bali and Thailand once again. I love Europe as a destination and feel ever so lucky that I have the opportunity to work there with Rick Steves. But I must admit I was rather horrified at the prices this spring. A cup of coffee was regularly $3.50 to $4 (with current exchange rates). Italy continues to be an increasingly spendy destination with simple plates of pasta or pizzas now running $10 and up (at least the coffee is still excellent and, relatively speaking, cheap) and once inexpensive house wines creeping up into the $15 per liter range. Switzerland, always Europe’s most expensive country, has once again lurched ahead of its neighbors after the price gap had steadily shrunk over the last decade. And France, formerly the last refuge of great, inexpensive food, has also closed the price gap. Even wine by the glass, once a staple of French budget travel, is heading toward the $7 and up range. Dining is not the only place the traveler feels the “Euro squeeze.” A single-ride ticket on Venice’s vaporettos (water buses) is now almost $10 and Paris’ wonderful metro system had a recent price hike, approaching $2 for a single journey. Sights and museums are not exempt. Today’s traveler should expect to pay $12 and up for sights that only a few years ago cost $5-7.
It is not my intention to bash Europe – it remains a magical destination and a place of profound connections for all westerners. But in terms of shear value, it simply pales beside Southeast Asia (SEA). The value of the American dollar has fallen against all foreign currencies in the last few months. But while it has lost 9% against the Euro it has lost only 4-5% against SEAsian currencies (last 120 days: source: Oanda.com), reflecting a long-term trend. Inflation has hit SEA as well but travel commodities were such a tremendous bargain that they remain tantalizingly low for Americans. Boutique hotels for under $50, wonderful meals for $10-12, street food for a couple of bucks, and public transportation for pennies on the dollar compared to western destinations. While in Europe this spring I developed a taste for the relatively new, prepackaged, refrigerated coffee drinks (think Frappaccino). They cost about $2.25 in grocery stores and $4 at highway reststops. The SEA version, while smaller (probably 60%) cost about 35-45 cents. With inflation and the weakened dollar, one might expect to pay 50 cents today.
More than anything else, I simply love the freedom provided by the lower prices of all travel commodities in SEA. As a life-long penny-pincher, I appreciate not having to carefully weigh every spending decision. Will this sight be worth the entrance cost? Can I afford to splurge on the most expensive menu item in a restaurant? Should we picnic today to preserve our budget? I’d love a second beer but they cost almost $10 OR we have to find a bar with happy hour prices so our beer will only cost $5-6 (Paris, Italy). While traveling in Thailand or Bali, the cost of things is mercifully exempt from all such considerations. All this value for countries that are welcoming to visitors, extremely safe, have well-developed tourism infrastructures, and are exotic, fascinating cultural destinations.
It is not my intention to bash Europe – it remains a magical destination and a place of profound connections for all westerners. But in terms of shear value, it simply pales beside Southeast Asia (SEA). The value of the American dollar has fallen against all foreign currencies in the last few months. But while it has lost 9% against the Euro it has lost only 4-5% against SEAsian currencies (last 120 days: source: Oanda.com), reflecting a long-term trend. Inflation has hit SEA as well but travel commodities were such a tremendous bargain that they remain tantalizingly low for Americans. Boutique hotels for under $50, wonderful meals for $10-12, street food for a couple of bucks, and public transportation for pennies on the dollar compared to western destinations. While in Europe this spring I developed a taste for the relatively new, prepackaged, refrigerated coffee drinks (think Frappaccino). They cost about $2.25 in grocery stores and $4 at highway reststops. The SEA version, while smaller (probably 60%) cost about 35-45 cents. With inflation and the weakened dollar, one might expect to pay 50 cents today.
More than anything else, I simply love the freedom provided by the lower prices of all travel commodities in SEA. As a life-long penny-pincher, I appreciate not having to carefully weigh every spending decision. Will this sight be worth the entrance cost? Can I afford to splurge on the most expensive menu item in a restaurant? Should we picnic today to preserve our budget? I’d love a second beer but they cost almost $10 OR we have to find a bar with happy hour prices so our beer will only cost $5-6 (Paris, Italy). While traveling in Thailand or Bali, the cost of things is mercifully exempt from all such considerations. All this value for countries that are welcoming to visitors, extremely safe, have well-developed tourism infrastructures, and are exotic, fascinating cultural destinations.
Enchanting Bali (from June 2009 Newlsetter)
The mere mention of the name Bali conjures up visions of a mystical island paradise in the western mind. From Rogers and Hamerstein’s musical “South Pacific” (dreamy Bali Ha’i) to Elizabeth Gilbert‘s “Eat, Pray, Love” the island holds a special place in western pop culture. Bali has been called the “enchanted isle”, “the last paradise”, and “the morning of the world.” It is indeed a beautiful tropical island bursting with bright colors, inspiring vistas, and exotic sounds and smells, inhabited by an artistic, sensual people with a storied history. But that describes many Pacific island nations. What is it about this tiny (5620 square miles) island that engages us so?
One answer is that Bali offers an experiential package that is unrivaled in the East. For generations travelers have visited South Pacific islands for beautiful swaying palms and golden sand beaches, India for its Eastern mystery, and more recently, China for its ancient culture. But only Bali offers all of these attractions in a single destination. It has been said that Asia and the Pacific meet in Bali.
Some of the imagery mentioned above can be traced in the island’s history. The first western visitors were shipwrecked Dutch sailors in the late 16th century. Upon their return to the Netherlands, the captain’s logs were published, creating a sensation in Europe. Images of lovely naked natives in a beautiful tropical setting engaged and titillated the Dutch public and the notion of Bali as a tropical paradise was born. That image was fortified in the last century by numerous European expatriates who have made Bali home. Many wrote memoirs or histories of Bali, extolling its many virtues. In the 1930s the Dutch began to promote Bali as a tourist destination, adding to the mystique. Backpackers created a new kind of tourism in the ‘70s and middle class tourism discovered Bali shortly thereafter.
So it is not hard to trace the origins of the Balinese image. But additionally, we are happy to report that the contemporary experience of the island stacks up beautifully to the hype. A visit to Bali can only be described as enchanting. It is captivating in its small and personal connections. Bali is not a sight-driven destination. Travelers do not find grand buildings and soaring ancient monuments. Instead, it is a destination of experience which involves an intimate connection to Balinese life. Whether visiting a temple or village, enjoying a performance, or attending a temple festival visitors are treated as honored guests. One is consistently welcomed with a smile and slight bow of the head whether entering a restaurant, stopping to observe a craftsman at work, or entering a temple compound. One never feels like an intruder in any way.
It is the living, active culture of Bali that calls to western visitors. One appealing element of Balinese life is the ever-present Gamalan music. Whether live at a performance or recorded in restaurants and hotels the lilting strains transport the westerner to another realm. This primarily percussive music is at once melodic, ethereal, exciting, and often haunting as it adds a layer to the mystical feeling of the visitor experience. Perhaps the most engaging, memorable aspect of Balinese culture is the experience of traditional dance-drama. Performances, available everywhere, have evolved from religious rituals and retain their spiritual significance even when performed for tourists. The elaborate costumes and makeup, stylized movements and symbolic gestures, and pulsing Gamalan accompaniment transport the viewer to the realm of mystic story-telling. Balinese religion is also accessible. Temple architecture is not monumental but it is beautiful and boasts a wide variety of intricate decoration. Visitors are always welcome at temple festivals and even at cremation ceremonies.
A final element of Balinese allure is the friendliness of its people. It is hard to overstate this honest pleasure. One is greeted everywhere by sincere smiles and welcoming gestures. The hospitality feels authentic because it flows from genuine contentment. The Balinese people seem to be very happy with their island paradise. As they go about their lives, conducting business, making offerings, attending ceremonies, creating music or dance, or cultivating rice they do so with open hearts. Even the most menial tasks are done with lots of spirited conversation and laughter. At every encounter visitors are honored, welcomed, and engaged. One can hardly avoid being drawn into the contentment – and why would we want to?
One answer is that Bali offers an experiential package that is unrivaled in the East. For generations travelers have visited South Pacific islands for beautiful swaying palms and golden sand beaches, India for its Eastern mystery, and more recently, China for its ancient culture. But only Bali offers all of these attractions in a single destination. It has been said that Asia and the Pacific meet in Bali.
Some of the imagery mentioned above can be traced in the island’s history. The first western visitors were shipwrecked Dutch sailors in the late 16th century. Upon their return to the Netherlands, the captain’s logs were published, creating a sensation in Europe. Images of lovely naked natives in a beautiful tropical setting engaged and titillated the Dutch public and the notion of Bali as a tropical paradise was born. That image was fortified in the last century by numerous European expatriates who have made Bali home. Many wrote memoirs or histories of Bali, extolling its many virtues. In the 1930s the Dutch began to promote Bali as a tourist destination, adding to the mystique. Backpackers created a new kind of tourism in the ‘70s and middle class tourism discovered Bali shortly thereafter.
So it is not hard to trace the origins of the Balinese image. But additionally, we are happy to report that the contemporary experience of the island stacks up beautifully to the hype. A visit to Bali can only be described as enchanting. It is captivating in its small and personal connections. Bali is not a sight-driven destination. Travelers do not find grand buildings and soaring ancient monuments. Instead, it is a destination of experience which involves an intimate connection to Balinese life. Whether visiting a temple or village, enjoying a performance, or attending a temple festival visitors are treated as honored guests. One is consistently welcomed with a smile and slight bow of the head whether entering a restaurant, stopping to observe a craftsman at work, or entering a temple compound. One never feels like an intruder in any way.
It is the living, active culture of Bali that calls to western visitors. One appealing element of Balinese life is the ever-present Gamalan music. Whether live at a performance or recorded in restaurants and hotels the lilting strains transport the westerner to another realm. This primarily percussive music is at once melodic, ethereal, exciting, and often haunting as it adds a layer to the mystical feeling of the visitor experience. Perhaps the most engaging, memorable aspect of Balinese culture is the experience of traditional dance-drama. Performances, available everywhere, have evolved from religious rituals and retain their spiritual significance even when performed for tourists. The elaborate costumes and makeup, stylized movements and symbolic gestures, and pulsing Gamalan accompaniment transport the viewer to the realm of mystic story-telling. Balinese religion is also accessible. Temple architecture is not monumental but it is beautiful and boasts a wide variety of intricate decoration. Visitors are always welcome at temple festivals and even at cremation ceremonies.
A final element of Balinese allure is the friendliness of its people. It is hard to overstate this honest pleasure. One is greeted everywhere by sincere smiles and welcoming gestures. The hospitality feels authentic because it flows from genuine contentment. The Balinese people seem to be very happy with their island paradise. As they go about their lives, conducting business, making offerings, attending ceremonies, creating music or dance, or cultivating rice they do so with open hearts. Even the most menial tasks are done with lots of spirited conversation and laughter. At every encounter visitors are honored, welcomed, and engaged. One can hardly avoid being drawn into the contentment – and why would we want to?
Value, Value, Value (from May 2009 Newletter)
Southeast Asia is one of the globe’s best travel values. In real estate the accepted dictum is: “Location, Location, Location.” For Southeast Asian travel the mantra is: “Value, Value, Value.” The three big-ticket items in any travel budget - transportation, accommodations, and food - are very inexpensive. A 45-minute taxi ride is $10-12. Clean, well located, comfortable, air-conditioned accommodations are readily available for under $40 (half that if you forego the air-conditioning). An excellent restaurant dinner with drinks can easily be had for $10 and street vendors can provide a delicious meal for $1. Even international airfares, previously a deterrent, are now comparable to European airfares*. Moreover, budget airlines are proliferating in Southeast Asia making internal flights very affordable.
Travelers today face an environment of rising fuel and food costs, plummeting dollar values, and an ailing economy. We need to be very careful about where and how we allocate our resources. Up until now, American international travel has been dominated by Europe. Forty years ago European travel was exotic, inexpensive, and the province of either the wealthy or backpackers. In the interim, rising American affluence has made European travel a middle class endeavor viewed almost as an entitlement. However, in the last five years European inflation combined with falling dollar values has made Europe a very expensive destination. Southeast Asia offers a wonderfully affordable alternative.
In the last year and a half, most major travel publications have featured several articles about how to travel more frugally in the current economic environment. All have suggested selecting better value destinations and Southeast Asia is at or near the top of those lists. On Dec. 9, 2007 The Seattle Times’ Carol Pucci featured Southeast Asia in her “Travelwise” column. The title was, “S.E. Asia Makes lots of Cents for U.S. Travelers.” Of Bangkok, she wrote, “The dollar, although worth less than a year ago, still packs more buying power here than in Europe.” On July 21, 2008 Eliza Bates of the Associated Press wrote an article titled, “Budget Bangkok: 15-cent trains, $1 Meals.” The article began with, “Thailand’s tropical capital is teeming with budget options for the penny-pinching traveler.” Both articles go on to list multiple examples of Thai bargains.
The relative value of the Thai and Indonesian currencies is another reason why Southeast Asia is such a good value for American travelers. The exchange on those currencies has remained more favorable than the Euro. From April 2007 to April 2008 the dollar plummeted by more than 17% against the Euro. During that same period, the dollar lost less than 5% of its value against the Baht and Rupiah. Any way one approaches the issue Southeast Asia is a great value.
Beyond the necessities of travel, the low prices in Thailand and Bali make them shopping paradises. Tremendous bargains are available for every budget. Travelers find the usual selection of tourist merchandise: T-shirts, hats, prints, jewelry, clothes, and a staggering array of handicrafts. Handicrafts range from embroidered clothing and bags to paper umbrellas and fans, lacquerware, silver, local textiles, batik, masks, and carved soap. Some of the most popular items are the “knock-off” fashions available in the larger cities. Serious shoppers might consider antiques, tailor-made clothes, furniture, or stone and wood carvings. Additionally, Thailand is one of the world’s leading exporters of gems and ornaments and Thai silk is considered the best in the world.
We at Imprint Tours believe Americans are ready for a new travel frontier and we believe it is Southeast Asia, a part of the world about which we are passionate. Thailand and Bali are beautiful, fascinating, and accessible destinations. They boast fantastic architecture, World Heritage sites, incredible and varied natural beauty, rich artistic heritages, friendly cultures, and well-established tourism infrastructures. It just so happens that Thailand and Bali are also two of the globe’s great travel bargains.
*from the west coast
Travelers today face an environment of rising fuel and food costs, plummeting dollar values, and an ailing economy. We need to be very careful about where and how we allocate our resources. Up until now, American international travel has been dominated by Europe. Forty years ago European travel was exotic, inexpensive, and the province of either the wealthy or backpackers. In the interim, rising American affluence has made European travel a middle class endeavor viewed almost as an entitlement. However, in the last five years European inflation combined with falling dollar values has made Europe a very expensive destination. Southeast Asia offers a wonderfully affordable alternative.
In the last year and a half, most major travel publications have featured several articles about how to travel more frugally in the current economic environment. All have suggested selecting better value destinations and Southeast Asia is at or near the top of those lists. On Dec. 9, 2007 The Seattle Times’ Carol Pucci featured Southeast Asia in her “Travelwise” column. The title was, “S.E. Asia Makes lots of Cents for U.S. Travelers.” Of Bangkok, she wrote, “The dollar, although worth less than a year ago, still packs more buying power here than in Europe.” On July 21, 2008 Eliza Bates of the Associated Press wrote an article titled, “Budget Bangkok: 15-cent trains, $1 Meals.” The article began with, “Thailand’s tropical capital is teeming with budget options for the penny-pinching traveler.” Both articles go on to list multiple examples of Thai bargains.
The relative value of the Thai and Indonesian currencies is another reason why Southeast Asia is such a good value for American travelers. The exchange on those currencies has remained more favorable than the Euro. From April 2007 to April 2008 the dollar plummeted by more than 17% against the Euro. During that same period, the dollar lost less than 5% of its value against the Baht and Rupiah. Any way one approaches the issue Southeast Asia is a great value.
Beyond the necessities of travel, the low prices in Thailand and Bali make them shopping paradises. Tremendous bargains are available for every budget. Travelers find the usual selection of tourist merchandise: T-shirts, hats, prints, jewelry, clothes, and a staggering array of handicrafts. Handicrafts range from embroidered clothing and bags to paper umbrellas and fans, lacquerware, silver, local textiles, batik, masks, and carved soap. Some of the most popular items are the “knock-off” fashions available in the larger cities. Serious shoppers might consider antiques, tailor-made clothes, furniture, or stone and wood carvings. Additionally, Thailand is one of the world’s leading exporters of gems and ornaments and Thai silk is considered the best in the world.
We at Imprint Tours believe Americans are ready for a new travel frontier and we believe it is Southeast Asia, a part of the world about which we are passionate. Thailand and Bali are beautiful, fascinating, and accessible destinations. They boast fantastic architecture, World Heritage sites, incredible and varied natural beauty, rich artistic heritages, friendly cultures, and well-established tourism infrastructures. It just so happens that Thailand and Bali are also two of the globe’s great travel bargains.
*from the west coast
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Bali R&D Trip Nov. 2008
Upon arriving at Denpasar’s airport I immediately picked up on many familiar impressions. The first was the heat. The last time here we’d been in tropical
A much more pleasant reminder was the temple right in the airport.
We passed up the official taxi line and bargained with a driver hanging about for a fare. We bargained good-naturedly and knocked off close to 50% from the “official” fare. Our driver was pleasant with his limited English. He told me which mobile phone company would best suit our needs and pointed out a place to buy the appropriate chip near our hotel. Once away from the airport we were assaulted with the distinctive smells of
Familiar sights greeted us as well. We saw the traditional red pants and hats among most of the taxi drivers at the airport. We were immediately reminded that the Thais drive on the opposite side of the street form us. Signs for Bintang beer reminded us of our favorite chilled beverage – soon to be tasted. We passed many vendors selling the colorful fabrics of
We checked into the hotel we’d booked. It was a high-end budget place with simple, AC rooms, basic but private bath, and a pool for Maia. Quite a step up from our budget days. I love how the Balinese take so much pride in their architecture. Even this budget hotel had traditional architectural appointments: carved doors, decorative masks, and stone statuary throughout a central garden. I tripped going up the stairs to our room, reminding myself that regular, even stairs are a western phenomenon.
After checking in we went out to explore the neighborhood. The tourist economy is obvious as the streets were lined with warungs and restaurants, Losmen and Hotels, Circle K (convenience) stores, travel agents, clothing stores, and market stalls selling every souvenir imaginable. Right away we encountered the ubiquitous practice of tiny offerings being places in front of shops, homes, hotels, and temples at all times of the day. Keeping the gods happy is a full-time pursuit in
Our first days were spent looking for hotels and restaurants to use for the tour. Some of our fondest recollections of
As we traveled around the island I was struck by the Balinese love for ostentatious, public art. In most towns of size there is at least one monumental statue, usually some Hindu deity, at a major intersection or entrance. I’m starting to understand that there is, at best, only a blurred line between art for life and life as art here. Balinese culture is so enveloped in ceremony, performance, sacrifice, and devotion. In a way that I’ve never experienced anywhere else, these elements seem to be a part of every day and every person’s life – not just dusted off for big festival days. There are statues everywhere – from the huge ones mentioned above to smaller, private garden versions. They are venerated, dressed, and adorned with flowers all the time. The creation and giving of votive offerings is truly a constant, daily activity for all.
We ventured out to Amed on the east coast of the island. It is much less developed than other beach areas. The beaches are not golden sand like Sanur, Kuta, or even Lovina and Candidasa. Instead they are pebble beaches. But the lack of commercial tourist crush is refreshing and the scalloped coast is striking. Multiple inlet beaches are lined with colorful outrigger canoes with eyes painted on their prows. Between the half dozen villages the landscape is dominated by palm trees. The drive from Selang (southeastern-most village) to Ujung was very windy and slow but allowed a glimpse of what remains of authentic Balinese village life and many stunning vistas. We saw many children working or going to school and women shucking corn or doing other tasks. Everyone was friendly and eager to have their picture taken.
The drive from Amed back west across the slopes of Gunung Agung afforded repeated views of emerald rice terraces glinting in the sun. As the guidebooks say, it defies ones ability to find new words for description (verdant, lush, vernal, luxuriant). Mt Batur was shrouded in mist but nonetheless dramatic as we arrived at the lip of the caldera. We could pick out glimpses of the silver lake below and occasional clearing of the clouds allowed the lava dome to briefly appear. We were ever so pleased with the Lakeview hotel perched on the caldera rim. It provides a comfortable venue for the group to enjoy the sunset/sunrise. The brisk mountain air was a welcome change.
Having accomplished our goals for Batur we headed south to Ubud. More remarkable rice terrace views and several wood carving villages made the drive interesting. We settled into our hotel room at Nick’s Guesthouse as the day’s light was failing. Ubud has grown tremendously in the last 15 years but seems to have retained its essential character. A comment I can add for
Ubud was full of memories: finding hot tea in a vacuum pot on your porch each morning, banana pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast, misspelled signs like “taksi”, and the sounds of performances every night. Lots of great, creative restaurant options, the well-organized tourist information office, and plenty of activities to engage in. At the Circle K I found Birdy canned coffee, a delight I discovered in
We met with Dewa, a transport contact from Intrepid who turned out to be a great resource. He took me around to hotels and restaurants and introduced me to local guides. When I turned up lame (back) the second day he volunteered to take me to a traditional healer. I went willingly. I had quite the experience. The man’s name was Kokrai and thereafter, when I told any locals of my experience they all knew of him. Dewa arranged everything, which included driving me 15 minutes or so to another village and arranging an offering (which contained about $10). Kokrai was very old, maybe late 70s. He examined me more by touch than by question, using his hands and fingers. He had me lie on my back and he pinched my little toe with a stick – it really hurt and I squeaked more than once. He than had me twist my torso while he poked the heal of my other foot with his stick. Then back to the toe (ouch!). Then he had me sit up and stretch forward. While I sat he kneaded my neck, back, and shoulders. Then he asked me if I wished him to make me some medicine. He spoke English but also pantomimed how the medicine would be applied (although I didn’t understand at the time). I said yes so he made up the medicine. He chopped up several different herbs on a little chopping block on a table, put them in his mouth and chewed them up for a while, and then spewed them out on my lower back. The rest of the herbs he added to some oil and told me to apply it to my back each morning. I thanked him and we returned to Ubud. It was a fascinating experience and I must admit my back loosened up considerably as the day wore on and I recovered, day by day, much quicker than usual.
As was the case on our first visit 15 years ago, one of the most pleasant aspects of
We concluded our R&D excursion excited about the prospects of introducing groups of our American clients to the wonders and beauty of this tropical paradise.
Maia' Bali Impressions
I thought
There were a few sights I did like. Like Ulu Watu. It was very interesting because there were wild monkeys everywhere. You had to be very careful because the monkeys would steal anything that caught their eye. The temple on the cliff was beautiful. Tanah Lot was another fun temple because I had fun floating flowers down the stream while my parents looked at the sights. One of the other highlights for me was Tirtagangga, a water temple that had pools, fountains, and lakes. Part of the time I was skipping along stepping stones in one of the pools. The rest of the time I was swimming in the freezing cold pools that had lots of fish.
Shopping was great. I had a lot of fun picking out dresses. There were so many exotic dresses there that I could look at and beg my mother to buy for me. I really had a great time, except the fact that it was very hot.
One of my favorite parts to the trip was that almost every hotel we stayed in had a swimming pool. I got to swim in them almost every day. I liked them all but my favorite was in a small hotel in
One of the places that I went with my family was
On the way home at the airport I was looking at my dad’s backpack and suddenly something green moved. I realized it was a gecko that had hitched a ride on the pack. I told my dad and he shook it off gently. I scared him into a corner so he wouldn’t get stepped on and then he scurried up the wall to safety. Apparently, he wanted to go to
Maia Coen (age 10)
First Jogja Visit 1993
Aug. 2 – Prambanan
We easily caught a bus headed for Solo since they leave about every 10-15 minutes. Within ½ hour we were gazing upon the tall spires in the distance. Getting inside the complex was a more confusing task. Nothing was marked well so once permitted to enter an outer gate we strolled through the souvenir stalls and right in the exit with hardly a word of resistance. The Japanese and French tourist groups dispersed enough for some “all alone at the sight” looking photos. We climbed up into a few of the temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. Much of the complex had collapsed by the last century and was only reconstructed partially starting 1937. Blocks of the former splendor lie all around the reconstructed temples some day to be reassembled if the puzzle can be re-imagined.
Aug. 3 – Borobodur
We decided sunset was a better time for Borobodur so we walked to the bus stop and squeezed on a crowded bus. We arrived at a good time in the late afternoon and wondered the monument without many crowds. The structure itself is magnificent. Six levels rise up to the three bell-shaped stupa rows. Like a giant intricately decorated wedding cake the temple rises out of the palms with the mountain range behind. The sun was filtered through a large cloud cover giving dramatic highlights to the background range. Circumambulating the lower tiers I was able to have a more solitary experience, appreciating the headless Buddhas, fragments of relief illustrations of Buddhist teachings, and the setting sun. Above I hadn’t noticed that the stupas contained anything until I saw two which had the top removed to reveal a sitting Buddha figure. I then peered through the latticed stone to see that they all had a Buddha figure. Most of them were headless but the head was no longer within the stupa. When, how had they been removed? The tourist groups thinned out and we enjoyed the view of the entire monument from down below on the lawn just as the sun beamed out to highlight the stone . . . just beautiful.
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