Thursday, July 30, 2009

Undiscovered Amed (from July 2009 Newsletter)

At Imprint Tours we pride ourselves in finding destinations that are away from the typical commercial tour itinerary. One such location is Amed, on Bali’s east coast. The area has avoided over-development and this collection of sea-side villages is one of Bali’s unspoiled jewels. Amed, named for one of its 10 villages, is an 8-mile stretch of lovely bays, black-sand pebble beaches, and stunning views. Although development is happening, Amed remains, for the present, a place of quiet refuge. Even the most developed of the villages remains low-key. And because it remains just off the tourist radar it is a great value destination.
Activities in Amed naturally center on the water. Some of Bali’s best diving and snorkeling are found along the reef just a few yards out from shore. The water is crystal clear and the reef accommodates multiple species of coral, sponges, and a high density of tropical fish. The current is gentle and safe and access is extremely easy from shore. For serious divers Gili Selang, the eastern-most tip of the island and two accessible shipwrecks provide more challenging dives. Certification courses are available and two-dive trips with all equipment are around $60. Tulamben, Bali’s most popular dive site due to the 400-foot shipwreck Liberty, is also accessible. While Amed lacks the golden sand beaches of the south its pebble beaches are nonetheless picturesque, lined with colorful outrigger fishing boats.
Apart from water-oriented activities, Amed is mostly for relaxing. Most mid-range hotels boast a swimming pool and spa. Walks along the beach are lovely. Sunrise and sunset are dynamic and the views in every direction are memorable. In general, the restaurants serve food of a very high standard. There is live music or Balinese dance available 4-5 nights per week. One can observe the processing of sea salt, the traditional industry of the region. The process is quite interesting and Amed salt has a reputation for excellent flavor. Lastly, the scenic drive south of Amed to Ujung is one of the most beautiful and remote on Bali. Dramatic coastal vistas and beach-ringed coves are revealed by every turn in the windy road. Additionally, one gets a glimpse of real Balinese village life, untouched by tourism. One sees villagers involved in carving boats, weaving cotton fabrics, or cultivating fruit, corn, or peanuts.
Ultimately, Amed is not a place to DO, but rather a place to BE. When one arrives the first reaction might be to wonder what you’ll find to do after the first day. But as the somnambulant pulse of the area seeps into your own biorhythms you’ll begin to enjoy genuine relaxation. The outside world seems to matter less and less and a planned 2-day visit stretches to 3, 4, 5, . . . .

On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali Tour, we spend 3 nights and two full days in Amed. One day is set aside for pure relaxation – no tour activities scheduled. The second day we’ve hired the sailing yacht Condor for the day. We’ll spend the day on the water; sailing, snorkeling, swimming, picnicking and enjoying the entire length of the Amed coast. Our tour hotel, Pura Wisata, boasts 2 sea-view swimming pools, in-house diving operators, and a relaxing spa. On our arrival day we enjoy a sea-side/pool-side lunch and observe a class of Balinese children learning traditional dance just outside of Ujung before driving to Amed via the dramatic coast road described above. Prepare to unwind.

Khao Sok NP (from July 2009 newsletter)

Extraordinary, stunning Khao Sok National Park is composed of 400+ square miles of rugged limestone mountains and lush tropical rainforest. One of Thiailand’s hidden treasures; its relative remoteness helps insure its status as an off-the-beaten-track, undiscovered treat. The centerpiece is vast Chiaw Lan Lake. Over 100 miles long, it was created by the Ratchaprapha dam in 1982. Often called Thailand’s Guilin for its karst landscape, it is characterized by limestone outcroppings, similar to those in more famous Phang-Nga bay. However, these reach a height of over 3000 feet, more than triple the size of the Phang-Nga formations. The dramatically vertical peaks, draped with verdant jungle vegetation provide the visual backdrop for every breathtaking vista as well as create over 100 islands in the lake. Many waterfalls splash over limestone cliffs, adding to the visual splendor. One guidebook describes it as stepping into a “George of the Jungle” movie.
The park offers several engaging activities. Hiking is the most popular with trails leading to Sip-Et Chan, Than Sawan, and Than Kloy waterfalls (3-6 miles). Several lake-side caves can also be reached on foot or by boat. Possible wildlife spotting includes Malayan and Asiatic black bears, leopards, serow, banteng, civets, loris, wild boar, guar, deer, and even wild elephants and the occasional tiger. One is almost sure to see langurs, gibbons, hornbills, and flying lizards. KS is also home to an additional 150+ species of birds. Fauna includes lianas, bamboo, ferns, rattan (including giant rattan), and the famous Rafflesia kerrii (or wild lotus), the world’s second largest flower. The “blooms” can reach a staggering 32 inches in diameter. Boats can be hired for exploring the coves and caves along Chiaw Lan’s shores. Bikes and motorbikes can be rented for those wishing to explore further afield. A variety of guided tours and treks are available and elephant trekking has a good reputation here.
Khao Sok is remote enough to be off the usual tourist track. Small roads and rustic accommodations keep commercial tour companies away and less than convenient public transportation keeps the flow of independent travelers light. Even so, there is a visitor center with an exhibition of KS highlights and rudimentary trail maps for hikers. Most hiking trails originate here. There is also a tourist village with several bungalow operators, mini-markets, email centers, laundry, message center, and bike/motorbike rentals. The best time to visit is during the dry season, late December to May.
The amazing natural wonders of southern Thailand should be on everyone’s Southeast Asian list of can’t miss sights. If you’d like to enjoy them without the tourist crush of Phang Nga bay or the parks of the northern peninsula, Khao Sok is perfect for you.

Imprint Tours is one of the only tour companies that takes its hardy tour members to Khao Sok. We organize a jungle trek with a local nature interpreter, take a bamboo raft excursion, visit a lake-side cave, and do a sunset cruise on the lake. But the highlight by far is staying at a floating lodge in the middle of the lake. Step off your bamboo porch directly into the refreshing water of the lake, paddle around in the free kayaks, or just relax on a Thai ax pillow in front of your bamboo bungalow. However, the real magic begins after nightfall when the silence becomes absolute except for the occasional calls of the living jungle and complete darkness reveals the milky way in all its glory. The towering karst formations bathed only in starlight are a sight never to be forgotten. Midnight swim anyone?

Value Part II

Although I just wrote about the tremendous value of Southeast Asian travel in May, having just returned from 10 weeks of tours in Europe I feel compelled to sing the praises of inexpensive Bali and Thailand once again. I love Europe as a destination and feel ever so lucky that I have the opportunity to work there with Rick Steves. But I must admit I was rather horrified at the prices this spring. A cup of coffee was regularly $3.50 to $4 (with current exchange rates). Italy continues to be an increasingly spendy destination with simple plates of pasta or pizzas now running $10 and up (at least the coffee is still excellent and, relatively speaking, cheap) and once inexpensive house wines creeping up into the $15 per liter range. Switzerland, always Europe’s most expensive country, has once again lurched ahead of its neighbors after the price gap had steadily shrunk over the last decade. And France, formerly the last refuge of great, inexpensive food, has also closed the price gap. Even wine by the glass, once a staple of French budget travel, is heading toward the $7 and up range. Dining is not the only place the traveler feels the “Euro squeeze.” A single-ride ticket on Venice’s vaporettos (water buses) is now almost $10 and Paris’ wonderful metro system had a recent price hike, approaching $2 for a single journey. Sights and museums are not exempt. Today’s traveler should expect to pay $12 and up for sights that only a few years ago cost $5-7.
It is not my intention to bash Europe – it remains a magical destination and a place of profound connections for all westerners. But in terms of shear value, it simply pales beside Southeast Asia (SEA). The value of the American dollar has fallen against all foreign currencies in the last few months. But while it has lost 9% against the Euro it has lost only 4-5% against SEAsian currencies (last 120 days: source: Oanda.com), reflecting a long-term trend. Inflation has hit SEA as well but travel commodities were such a tremendous bargain that they remain tantalizingly low for Americans. Boutique hotels for under $50, wonderful meals for $10-12, street food for a couple of bucks, and public transportation for pennies on the dollar compared to western destinations. While in Europe this spring I developed a taste for the relatively new, prepackaged, refrigerated coffee drinks (think Frappaccino). They cost about $2.25 in grocery stores and $4 at highway reststops. The SEA version, while smaller (probably 60%) cost about 35-45 cents. With inflation and the weakened dollar, one might expect to pay 50 cents today.
More than anything else, I simply love the freedom provided by the lower prices of all travel commodities in SEA. As a life-long penny-pincher, I appreciate not having to carefully weigh every spending decision. Will this sight be worth the entrance cost? Can I afford to splurge on the most expensive menu item in a restaurant? Should we picnic today to preserve our budget? I’d love a second beer but they cost almost $10 OR we have to find a bar with happy hour prices so our beer will only cost $5-6 (Paris, Italy). While traveling in Thailand or Bali, the cost of things is mercifully exempt from all such considerations. All this value for countries that are welcoming to visitors, extremely safe, have well-developed tourism infrastructures, and are exotic, fascinating cultural destinations.

Enchanting Bali (from June 2009 Newlsetter)

The mere mention of the name Bali conjures up visions of a mystical island paradise in the western mind. From Rogers and Hamerstein’s musical “South Pacific” (dreamy Bali Ha’i) to Elizabeth Gilbert‘s “Eat, Pray, Love” the island holds a special place in western pop culture. Bali has been called the “enchanted isle”, “the last paradise”, and “the morning of the world.” It is indeed a beautiful tropical island bursting with bright colors, inspiring vistas, and exotic sounds and smells, inhabited by an artistic, sensual people with a storied history. But that describes many Pacific island nations. What is it about this tiny (5620 square miles) island that engages us so?
One answer is that Bali offers an experiential package that is unrivaled in the East. For generations travelers have visited South Pacific islands for beautiful swaying palms and golden sand beaches, India for its Eastern mystery, and more recently, China for its ancient culture. But only Bali offers all of these attractions in a single destination. It has been said that Asia and the Pacific meet in Bali.
Some of the imagery mentioned above can be traced in the island’s history. The first western visitors were shipwrecked Dutch sailors in the late 16th century. Upon their return to the Netherlands, the captain’s logs were published, creating a sensation in Europe. Images of lovely naked natives in a beautiful tropical setting engaged and titillated the Dutch public and the notion of Bali as a tropical paradise was born. That image was fortified in the last century by numerous European expatriates who have made Bali home. Many wrote memoirs or histories of Bali, extolling its many virtues. In the 1930s the Dutch began to promote Bali as a tourist destination, adding to the mystique. Backpackers created a new kind of tourism in the ‘70s and middle class tourism discovered Bali shortly thereafter.
So it is not hard to trace the origins of the Balinese image. But additionally, we are happy to report that the contemporary experience of the island stacks up beautifully to the hype. A visit to Bali can only be described as enchanting. It is captivating in its small and personal connections. Bali is not a sight-driven destination. Travelers do not find grand buildings and soaring ancient monuments. Instead, it is a destination of experience which involves an intimate connection to Balinese life. Whether visiting a temple or village, enjoying a performance, or attending a temple festival visitors are treated as honored guests. One is consistently welcomed with a smile and slight bow of the head whether entering a restaurant, stopping to observe a craftsman at work, or entering a temple compound. One never feels like an intruder in any way.
It is the living, active culture of Bali that calls to western visitors. One appealing element of Balinese life is the ever-present Gamalan music. Whether live at a performance or recorded in restaurants and hotels the lilting strains transport the westerner to another realm. This primarily percussive music is at once melodic, ethereal, exciting, and often haunting as it adds a layer to the mystical feeling of the visitor experience. Perhaps the most engaging, memorable aspect of Balinese culture is the experience of traditional dance-drama. Performances, available everywhere, have evolved from religious rituals and retain their spiritual significance even when performed for tourists. The elaborate costumes and makeup, stylized movements and symbolic gestures, and pulsing Gamalan accompaniment transport the viewer to the realm of mystic story-telling. Balinese religion is also accessible. Temple architecture is not monumental but it is beautiful and boasts a wide variety of intricate decoration. Visitors are always welcome at temple festivals and even at cremation ceremonies.
A final element of Balinese allure is the friendliness of its people. It is hard to overstate this honest pleasure. One is greeted everywhere by sincere smiles and welcoming gestures. The hospitality feels authentic because it flows from genuine contentment. The Balinese people seem to be very happy with their island paradise. As they go about their lives, conducting business, making offerings, attending ceremonies, creating music or dance, or cultivating rice they do so with open hearts. Even the most menial tasks are done with lots of spirited conversation and laughter. At every encounter visitors are honored, welcomed, and engaged. One can hardly avoid being drawn into the contentment – and why would we want to?

Value, Value, Value (from May 2009 Newletter)

Southeast Asia is one of the globe’s best travel values. In real estate the accepted dictum is: “Location, Location, Location.” For Southeast Asian travel the mantra is: “Value, Value, Value.” The three big-ticket items in any travel budget - transportation, accommodations, and food - are very inexpensive. A 45-minute taxi ride is $10-12. Clean, well located, comfortable, air-conditioned accommodations are readily available for under $40 (half that if you forego the air-conditioning). An excellent restaurant dinner with drinks can easily be had for $10 and street vendors can provide a delicious meal for $1. Even international airfares, previously a deterrent, are now comparable to European airfares*. Moreover, budget airlines are proliferating in Southeast Asia making internal flights very affordable.
Travelers today face an environment of rising fuel and food costs, plummeting dollar values, and an ailing economy. We need to be very careful about where and how we allocate our resources. Up until now, American international travel has been dominated by Europe. Forty years ago European travel was exotic, inexpensive, and the province of either the wealthy or backpackers. In the interim, rising American affluence has made European travel a middle class endeavor viewed almost as an entitlement. However, in the last five years European inflation combined with falling dollar values has made Europe a very expensive destination. Southeast Asia offers a wonderfully affordable alternative.
In the last year and a half, most major travel publications have featured several articles about how to travel more frugally in the current economic environment. All have suggested selecting better value destinations and Southeast Asia is at or near the top of those lists. On Dec. 9, 2007 The Seattle Times’ Carol Pucci featured Southeast Asia in her “Travelwise” column. The title was, “S.E. Asia Makes lots of Cents for U.S. Travelers.” Of Bangkok, she wrote, “The dollar, although worth less than a year ago, still packs more buying power here than in Europe.” On July 21, 2008 Eliza Bates of the Associated Press wrote an article titled, “Budget Bangkok: 15-cent trains, $1 Meals.” The article began with, “Thailand’s tropical capital is teeming with budget options for the penny-pinching traveler.” Both articles go on to list multiple examples of Thai bargains.
The relative value of the Thai and Indonesian currencies is another reason why Southeast Asia is such a good value for American travelers. The exchange on those currencies has remained more favorable than the Euro. From April 2007 to April 2008 the dollar plummeted by more than 17% against the Euro. During that same period, the dollar lost less than 5% of its value against the Baht and Rupiah. Any way one approaches the issue Southeast Asia is a great value.
Beyond the necessities of travel, the low prices in Thailand and Bali make them shopping paradises. Tremendous bargains are available for every budget. Travelers find the usual selection of tourist merchandise: T-shirts, hats, prints, jewelry, clothes, and a staggering array of handicrafts. Handicrafts range from embroidered clothing and bags to paper umbrellas and fans, lacquerware, silver, local textiles, batik, masks, and carved soap. Some of the most popular items are the “knock-off” fashions available in the larger cities. Serious shoppers might consider antiques, tailor-made clothes, furniture, or stone and wood carvings. Additionally, Thailand is one of the world’s leading exporters of gems and ornaments and Thai silk is considered the best in the world.
We at Imprint Tours believe Americans are ready for a new travel frontier and we believe it is Southeast Asia, a part of the world about which we are passionate. Thailand and Bali are beautiful, fascinating, and accessible destinations. They boast fantastic architecture, World Heritage sites, incredible and varied natural beauty, rich artistic heritages, friendly cultures, and well-established tourism infrastructures. It just so happens that Thailand and Bali are also two of the globe’s great travel bargains.

*from the west coast