One of the highlights of our "Beautiful Bali" tour is our extended stay in Ubud. Located in Bali's mountainous interior, Ubud boasts a cooler climate and central access to many of the island's cultural and artistic attractions. Important archeological sights are easy day trips. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in white-water rafting and cycling. Art fans can indulge in the island's best art museums and craft villages nearby produce wood carving, stone carving, silver and gold, glass, baskets, painting, masks, and even kites. For visitors wishing to partake of Bali's storied dance drama, Ubud offers multiple venues nightly and virtually all Balinese performance arts are available. Ubud is also a center for a large variety of cultural classes. There are even Bird, Reptile, and Elephant Adventure Parks nearby for family entertainment. And if one gets run down with all the activities, Ubud's many inexpensive spas can help with relaxation and recovery.
For us at Imprint, it is the easy access to Bali's best ancient sites that make Ubud a prime destination. Located about 15 miles north of Ubud, Gunung Kawi is Bali's oldest, largest, and most impressive ancient sight. The monument consists of 10 large candi (shrines), situated in a beautiful river valley. Visitors descend to the verdant valley floor via a stone staircase surrounded by rice terraces. The 25-foot candi are dramatically cut from cliff sides, each in its own niche (see photo above). The monuments are memorials to the Balinese royalty of the 11th century, making them almost 1000 years old. Nearby are the sacred springs of Tirta Empol. This is one of the island's most sacred spots and, not surprisingly, one of the most important temples, Pura Tirta Empol, is adjacent to the springs. The spring waters are believed to have special curative and restorative powers and pilgrims come from across the island for ritual purification and blessing in the temple. The spring waters are channeled into a holding tank from which they gush through a series of spouts into the ritual bathing pool. In keeping with our philosophy of making authentic connections, on our Beautiful Bali tour we participate in a water purification ceremony. Our local guide prepares offerings on our behalf and instructs us on proper customs, etiquette, and procedure. Entering the waist-deep pool, we traverse from spout to spout, ducking our heads under each in turn. It is refreshing on both a spiritual and physical level. Afterword, we enter the temple grounds and receive a blessing from one of the priests. It is the most meaningful connection experience on the tour. Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empol together have been nominated for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage protection list.
Fifteen minutes east of Ubud travelers find Bedulu, once the capital of the 13th-14th century Pejeng dynasty. Two ancient sights, Goa Gajah and Yeh Pulu are located there. Goa Gajah is a small natural cave that was enhanced to create a religious sanctuary. Inside the cave visitors see lingam (the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva), yoni (the female counterpart), and a statue of Ganesh. But it is the creatively carved exterior that impresses. The cave entrance is the mouth of an elaborately carved demon. Gigantic fingers on either side of the demon's face push back a riotous collection of lesser but equally detailed stone carvings. In front of the cave are twin bathing pools with ceremonial waterspouts for requisite ritual bathing. Nearby is Yeh Pulu, an 80-foot long carved cliff face, thought to be a hermitage from the 14th century. The figures can be read as a narrative. Theories on the subject range from scenes of everyday life to the life of Krishna. Visitors can identify a man carrying two jugs, a woman with jewelry, a hunting scene, and Ganesh. The site is attended by a local priest, who offers blessings to visitors (another great connection experience).
A bit further afield, about 17 miles east of Ubud, the town of Semarapura (or Klungkung) hosts the interesting Taman Kertha Gosa palace complex. Klungkung was once the island's most powerful kingdom. The complex is laid out in a large square with courtyards, gardens, pavilions, and moats. The highlights of the palace grounds are two pavilions, Kertha Gosa and Bale Kambang. Kertha Gosa, or Hall of Justice, was essentially Klungkung's court where disputes were settled. The ceilings are completely covered in the creative and elaborate Klungkung style of painting. The paintings depict scenes from a Balinese epic, cautionary tales of punishment for crimes, and various tales from the Hindu epic, Mahabharata. Bale Kambang, the Floating Pavilion, displays equally lavish paintings. The subjects here include Balinese folk tales and the astrological calendar. The small museum on site has a few archeological pieces and exhibits of songket weaving (silver or gold threaded cloth), palm wine making, and palm sugar extraction.
In addition to the historical sights near Ubud, there are a handful of interesting temples as well. Pura Kebo Edan (Crazy Buffalo Temple) contains a 700-year old, 10-foot high statue known as the Giant of Pejang. Pura Pusering Jagat (Navel of the World Temple) is a large, 700-year old temple containing a famous pair of stone carvings, a lingam and joni, which attract young couples wanting to conceive children. Pura Penataran Sasih contains the Fallen Moon of Pejeng, the largest single-piece cast bronze drum in the world. It is thought to be more than 1000 years old. Balinese legend suggests the drum was a fallen moon which came to earth from the heavens, hence the name.
Ambitious travelers could visit all of these sights in a busy, full day using a rental car or motorcycle. But a more leisurely pace spread over two days is recommended. For those not wanting to rent their own vehicle, local transport in the form of Bemos (frequent, communal vans) provide easy access as well. And lastly, Ubud has many, many tour operators that organize excursions. Even farther- flung sights are possible from Ubud where organized excursions to Tanah Lot, Lake Bratan, Mt Batur, and Besakih are possible.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Eat, Pray, Love
Julie and I recently went to see “Eat, Pray, Love” based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir of self-discovery. Our interest was more than entertainment as Gilbert’s story has helped increase interest in travel to Italy, India, and Bali. As Imprint has tours to two of those destinations, we were curious to see if the movie would significantly add to the mystique and desirability of travel there.
I must confess to being somewhat underwhelmed by EPL. I would be hard-pressed to disagree with reviews of the movie, which were decidedly lukewarm. As seems always to be the case, the movie does not stack up to the book. The performances seemed lackluster and the storyline not nearly as engaging as that of the book. But what I was really looking for was the compelling imagery that is ubiquitous in Bali and India. Those destinations are the most visually stunning and diverse of any I’ve visited. I had hoped this movie might be one of those in which the setting becomes one of the story’s stars. In this I was truly disappointed. With few exceptions the movie did little to portray the richness of either location.
But EPL is not a bad movie, just one that failed to live up to admittedly high expectations. And it does contain fleeting moments that embody the sense of place in India and Bali. For India, there is really only one brief scene, Gilbert’s arrival in India. The movie does a good job of portraying the intensity, chaos, crowdedness, and “in-your-face” aspect of one’s first moments in India. The beggars at Gilbert’s taxi window are a reality of the Indian experience. Unfortunately, it is only these pejorative elements moviegoers will see. Absent are the colors, majesty, history, architectural grandeur, sensory stimulation, and mysticism (the ashram scenes do little to illuminate this facet) that imbue every waking moment of an India visit. The only glimpse of sumptuous India is the wedding scene with the spectacular wedding dress and sensuous feel and bright colors of the celebration.
Bali fares better with lovely glimpses of emerald rice terraces, verdant flora, and dramatic coastal and beach locations. One also gets some views of the local architecture, colorful clothing, and signature mountains. In particular we enjoyed the lovely shots of hiking within the caldera of Mt. Batur. Some subtle touches were nice. Like the farmer “herding” ducks in the opening sequence and the vibrant market scenes. Perhaps the most interesting feature portrayed was cultural: the palm reader Ketut. The actor does a marvelous job conveying the genuine, contented, light-hearted, and smiling Balinese people. But again, a majority of the most alluring aspects of the Balinese landscape were absent. There were no examples of the most spectacular vistas, beautiful temple architecture, archeological monuments, or the captivating Balinese dance dramas.
In summary, EPL as an inspirational travelogue gets a thumbs down from this reviewer. But for those of you who have been to Bali it will be fun to revisit the sense of place and culture. For those of you considering going to Bali, it will show you some of Bali’s more subtle features. All told, EPL is worth a DVD rental for a quiet evening of vicarious travel – but won’t even scratch the surface of the story that is India or Bali.
I must confess to being somewhat underwhelmed by EPL. I would be hard-pressed to disagree with reviews of the movie, which were decidedly lukewarm. As seems always to be the case, the movie does not stack up to the book. The performances seemed lackluster and the storyline not nearly as engaging as that of the book. But what I was really looking for was the compelling imagery that is ubiquitous in Bali and India. Those destinations are the most visually stunning and diverse of any I’ve visited. I had hoped this movie might be one of those in which the setting becomes one of the story’s stars. In this I was truly disappointed. With few exceptions the movie did little to portray the richness of either location.
But EPL is not a bad movie, just one that failed to live up to admittedly high expectations. And it does contain fleeting moments that embody the sense of place in India and Bali. For India, there is really only one brief scene, Gilbert’s arrival in India. The movie does a good job of portraying the intensity, chaos, crowdedness, and “in-your-face” aspect of one’s first moments in India. The beggars at Gilbert’s taxi window are a reality of the Indian experience. Unfortunately, it is only these pejorative elements moviegoers will see. Absent are the colors, majesty, history, architectural grandeur, sensory stimulation, and mysticism (the ashram scenes do little to illuminate this facet) that imbue every waking moment of an India visit. The only glimpse of sumptuous India is the wedding scene with the spectacular wedding dress and sensuous feel and bright colors of the celebration.
Bali fares better with lovely glimpses of emerald rice terraces, verdant flora, and dramatic coastal and beach locations. One also gets some views of the local architecture, colorful clothing, and signature mountains. In particular we enjoyed the lovely shots of hiking within the caldera of Mt. Batur. Some subtle touches were nice. Like the farmer “herding” ducks in the opening sequence and the vibrant market scenes. Perhaps the most interesting feature portrayed was cultural: the palm reader Ketut. The actor does a marvelous job conveying the genuine, contented, light-hearted, and smiling Balinese people. But again, a majority of the most alluring aspects of the Balinese landscape were absent. There were no examples of the most spectacular vistas, beautiful temple architecture, archeological monuments, or the captivating Balinese dance dramas.
In summary, EPL as an inspirational travelogue gets a thumbs down from this reviewer. But for those of you who have been to Bali it will be fun to revisit the sense of place and culture. For those of you considering going to Bali, it will show you some of Bali’s more subtle features. All told, EPL is worth a DVD rental for a quiet evening of vicarious travel – but won’t even scratch the surface of the story that is India or Bali.
Mehrangarh Fort
Rising high above the city of Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s mightiest and most famous fort, Mehrangarh. Widely regarded as the finest example of Hindu military architecture the citadel rises a total of 400 feet above the city and creates an imposing profile. It covers over three square miles and its red sandstone walls are 120 feet high and 70 feet thick, extending a shear cliff to dramatic effect. The soaring ramparts afford dramatic views over the city of Jodhpur and the surrounding area. Known as the “Citadel of the Sun” (mihir is Sanskrit for sun and the sun god was the traditional chief deity of the Rathore dynasty) its colossal proportions and dramatic lines have inspired many glowing descriptions. Rudyard Kipling called it, “the work of giants.”
In 1458 the 15th Rathore ruler, Rao Jodha, decided to move his capital from Mandore to a new location which he named for himself - Jodhpur. A new fortress/palace complex was begun on a hill known as Bhaurcheeria, the mountain of birds. Although the initial ramparts and palace were built by Jodha, most of the current fort dates from the 17th century. As is the case with many storied fortresses in India, legends about Mehrangarh abound. According to one story, a hermit lived on the hill and had to be moved during construction. The hermit was angered by being forced to leave his home and therefore cursed the maharaja: “Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!” Even today this part of Rajasthan is prone to drought. One legend told is absolutely true. Jodha took some rather extreme measures to ensure the site would be blessed. He buried a man, Rajiya Bhambi, alive in the foundations (a common practice). In return the man’s family would be cared for by the Rathores. To this day his descendants live in an estate given them by the Maharaja.
The museum contained within the fort is one of the finest in Rajasthan, due in part to the fact that the fort is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Visitors can rent excellent audio guides which have been developed with contributions by the current Maharaja and use his voice. Within the massive walls are several palaces displaying intricate carvings, frescoes, and spacious courtyards. As with other Rajasthani forts, one must negotiate a steep zigzag road that winds up through multiple gates - seven in all. The Jaipol (victory) gate commemorates a victory over Jaipur and Bikaner and the Fatehpol gate celebrates defeat of the Mughals. These gates and this citadel were not all ceremonial. Evidence that the fort was more than a showpiece are easy to spot on the second gate in the form of cannonball marks. In addition to the gates and palaces the museum contains a room of royal palanquins, including an elaborate gilded version won in a battle against Gujarat in the 18th century. There are weapons, costumes, howdahs (), musical instruments, furniture, and paintings, all of which illuminate the lives of the Rajput princes and their families. An additional fascinating feature is the existence of palm prints on the walls, just inside the Loha Gate, from the burned wives of fallen maharajas when they committed sati (ritual self-immolation). The prints are still objects of local veneration.
On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour Mehrangarh represents one of the highlights of rugged Rajasthan. We’ll spend an entire morning exploring the fort. Additionally, we’ll have plenty of free time to explore Jodhpur below. The labyrinthine old commercial center of the city contains multiple bazaars selling fruit, vegetables, spices, sweets, silver, and handicrafts. A majority of the adobe houses have been painted blue, giving Jodhpur its moniker – the Blue City.
In 1458 the 15th Rathore ruler, Rao Jodha, decided to move his capital from Mandore to a new location which he named for himself - Jodhpur. A new fortress/palace complex was begun on a hill known as Bhaurcheeria, the mountain of birds. Although the initial ramparts and palace were built by Jodha, most of the current fort dates from the 17th century. As is the case with many storied fortresses in India, legends about Mehrangarh abound. According to one story, a hermit lived on the hill and had to be moved during construction. The hermit was angered by being forced to leave his home and therefore cursed the maharaja: “Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!” Even today this part of Rajasthan is prone to drought. One legend told is absolutely true. Jodha took some rather extreme measures to ensure the site would be blessed. He buried a man, Rajiya Bhambi, alive in the foundations (a common practice). In return the man’s family would be cared for by the Rathores. To this day his descendants live in an estate given them by the Maharaja.
The museum contained within the fort is one of the finest in Rajasthan, due in part to the fact that the fort is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Visitors can rent excellent audio guides which have been developed with contributions by the current Maharaja and use his voice. Within the massive walls are several palaces displaying intricate carvings, frescoes, and spacious courtyards. As with other Rajasthani forts, one must negotiate a steep zigzag road that winds up through multiple gates - seven in all. The Jaipol (victory) gate commemorates a victory over Jaipur and Bikaner and the Fatehpol gate celebrates defeat of the Mughals. These gates and this citadel were not all ceremonial. Evidence that the fort was more than a showpiece are easy to spot on the second gate in the form of cannonball marks. In addition to the gates and palaces the museum contains a room of royal palanquins, including an elaborate gilded version won in a battle against Gujarat in the 18th century. There are weapons, costumes, howdahs (), musical instruments, furniture, and paintings, all of which illuminate the lives of the Rajput princes and their families. An additional fascinating feature is the existence of palm prints on the walls, just inside the Loha Gate, from the burned wives of fallen maharajas when they committed sati (ritual self-immolation). The prints are still objects of local veneration.
On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour Mehrangarh represents one of the highlights of rugged Rajasthan. We’ll spend an entire morning exploring the fort. Additionally, we’ll have plenty of free time to explore Jodhpur below. The labyrinthine old commercial center of the city contains multiple bazaars selling fruit, vegetables, spices, sweets, silver, and handicrafts. A majority of the adobe houses have been painted blue, giving Jodhpur its moniker – the Blue City.
Serendipity and South Africa
During 30+ years of personal travel and 15 years of professional travel, most of the richest experiences we’ve had were completely unexpected and unplanned. The serendipity of travel is one of the great reasons to actually get out and explore this fabulous planet. Any regular traveler will report the same – the best experiences are those that happen spontaneously. The truly unquantifiable element is why serendipity seems to happen so regularly while traveling. We have no explanation, only the assurance that it is true. Somehow the universe seems to reward the intrepid spirit of exploration.
On my very first trip abroad, in 1978, I had one of my most memorable travel encounters. I was hitch-hiking in Belgium, on my way to Ostende to catch a ferry to England (no Chunnel or cheap flights in those days). I was picked up by a friendly Belgian man in a modest car. He spoke almost no English but somehow was able to communicate that his wife did speak English and he insisted I come home with him. My only reservation was that I wanted to make sure I made it to Ostende in time to make the last boat of the day. He seemed to understand this concern, and by hand gestures and much smiling was able to convince me not to worry. My host’s wife was surprised to see an extra face at their door (no cell phones either) but did not miss a beat in welcoming me into their tiny home. She did speak some English and I was treated to lunch. After lunch I happened to mention that all I knew of Belgian culture was Belgian waffles. That prompted a discussion in Flemish followed by the couple (plus their dog) piling into the car and taking me into the nearby village where I was treated to Belgian waffles – with strawberries and whipped cream. Eventually we got back in the car and the charming couple drove me about an hour to Ostende, dropping me at the boat dock. They drove away smiling and waving, having devoted the better part of a day to my comfort and leaving me with a warm and happy travel memory.
In December 1992 Julie and I had returned to Switzerland to work a winter season in Arosa, where I had worked in my twenties. After procuring jobs we had 2 weeks of free time and decided to go to France. We arrived in Paris and got an inexpensive hotel in the suburbs. We did some of the usual sight-seeing but the sun was gone by 4:00PM and so the evenings were fairly boring. On about the third night of sitting in our room after dinner we decided we had to venture out. We opted to head to the Champs-Elysees, knowing there is a lot of energy and activity there. Additionally, we could potentially stay warm by going into shops. Our first clue that something unusual was happening was our arrival in the Charles DeGaul/Etoille metro station where masses of people were being funneled to a single exit. We had no clue what was happening but were simply swept along by the tide of humanity. It turns out the Olympic torch for the Albertville Winter Olympics, complete with parade, was scheduled to arrive that night. We joined the massive crowds lining the street (plenty warm!) and were feted to a fabulous parade.
We have experienced travel serendipity at Imprint Tours as well. Some of our best tour experiences originated in chance encounters and some of our excellent travel partners were discovered in a similar fashion. On our most recent tour of Bali one of the highlights was a lunch visit to an out-of-the-way guesthouse, Kebun Impian, and a scenic drive along the rugged eastern edge of the island. At the guesthouse we were treated to one of the best meals on the tour. And since the owners, John and Wayan, are sponsors of the local children’s dance troop we were able to observe a classical dance class. Additionally, John provided a serendipitous surprise for even Julie and me by bringing in a master dancer, a graduate of the local troop, to perform for us. Such authentic connection experiences are exactly what we strive for at Imprint. We had discovered Kebun Impian on our research trip, completely by accident. We were driving the rugged coast road and had left late in the morning and without any food. There were no opportunities for a meal on the remote route and Maia was getting very hungry. We promised we would stop at the first place serving food, no matter what it was like or what it cost. Kebun Impian was the next opportunity we encountered and we certainly would not have stopped there under other circumstances. What a find!
Sometimes travel serendipity emerges or evolves from some great problem or challenge. On our 2006 Greece tour we were traveling on Orthodox Easter Sunday, the biggest holiday on the Greek calendar. Our challenge was finding some place to have lunch as virtually the entire country shuts down and people spend the day with their families. We stopped at a seaside town, gave our tour members some free time for lunch, and encouraged them to try to make connections with any families they found celebrating Easter. I found a family roasting a lamb on a spit (the typical Easter meal), asked if I could take photos, and was invited to join in. I had a wonderful cultural connection experience, but that paled in comparison to the experience that was to come. About a dozen of our group had walked along the coast seeking an open taverna for lunch. Eventually, they knocked on the door of a closed taverna to inquire. Though closed, the owner was preparing a lamb for his family and invited them to join. After lunch the rest of our group was invited to share in the wine and our entire tour group ended up celebrating Easter with the taverna owner and his family.
Some of Imprint’s travel partners were found through seemingly chance encounters. Our Thai ground agent was discovered after reading an article in a travel magazine. We found our India partner through a chance meeting at a St Patrick’s Day party here in Seattle. And now this spring, while escorting a Rick Steves group through Switzerland, I made the acquaintance of a South African living in Germany, running a paragliding service near Neuschwanstein Castle. He operates adventure tours, has been involved in tourism his whole life, and is anxious to assist in organizing a tour of southern Africa should Imprint decide we want to tour there. Based on our past track record with these “chance” encounters, we have a lot of faith in them and are inclined to follow where they lead. Some of you have expressed interest in traveling to Africa and there is certainly a buzz about South Africa with the current World Cup Championships taking place there right now. So we are currently taking a look at developing a southern Africa tour. It would certainly take in the Wine and Garden Routes, Robben Island, Capetown highlights, Kruger National Park, and Blyde River Canyon of South Africa, plus Victoria Falls and probably the Okavango Delta in Botswana. If a trip of this nature excites your travel imagination, please let us know. We would target 2013 or 2014. We will start a designated mailing list for a southern Africa tour. If you are interested please send us an email.
Certainly many of you have had serendipitous travel experiences yourselves. We’d like to hear about them! Please send us an email recounting your own story. We’ll publish 2 or 3 of the best stories and the author of the best travel serendipity tale will be awarded $50 off on any Imprint Tour.
On my very first trip abroad, in 1978, I had one of my most memorable travel encounters. I was hitch-hiking in Belgium, on my way to Ostende to catch a ferry to England (no Chunnel or cheap flights in those days). I was picked up by a friendly Belgian man in a modest car. He spoke almost no English but somehow was able to communicate that his wife did speak English and he insisted I come home with him. My only reservation was that I wanted to make sure I made it to Ostende in time to make the last boat of the day. He seemed to understand this concern, and by hand gestures and much smiling was able to convince me not to worry. My host’s wife was surprised to see an extra face at their door (no cell phones either) but did not miss a beat in welcoming me into their tiny home. She did speak some English and I was treated to lunch. After lunch I happened to mention that all I knew of Belgian culture was Belgian waffles. That prompted a discussion in Flemish followed by the couple (plus their dog) piling into the car and taking me into the nearby village where I was treated to Belgian waffles – with strawberries and whipped cream. Eventually we got back in the car and the charming couple drove me about an hour to Ostende, dropping me at the boat dock. They drove away smiling and waving, having devoted the better part of a day to my comfort and leaving me with a warm and happy travel memory.
In December 1992 Julie and I had returned to Switzerland to work a winter season in Arosa, where I had worked in my twenties. After procuring jobs we had 2 weeks of free time and decided to go to France. We arrived in Paris and got an inexpensive hotel in the suburbs. We did some of the usual sight-seeing but the sun was gone by 4:00PM and so the evenings were fairly boring. On about the third night of sitting in our room after dinner we decided we had to venture out. We opted to head to the Champs-Elysees, knowing there is a lot of energy and activity there. Additionally, we could potentially stay warm by going into shops. Our first clue that something unusual was happening was our arrival in the Charles DeGaul/Etoille metro station where masses of people were being funneled to a single exit. We had no clue what was happening but were simply swept along by the tide of humanity. It turns out the Olympic torch for the Albertville Winter Olympics, complete with parade, was scheduled to arrive that night. We joined the massive crowds lining the street (plenty warm!) and were feted to a fabulous parade.
We have experienced travel serendipity at Imprint Tours as well. Some of our best tour experiences originated in chance encounters and some of our excellent travel partners were discovered in a similar fashion. On our most recent tour of Bali one of the highlights was a lunch visit to an out-of-the-way guesthouse, Kebun Impian, and a scenic drive along the rugged eastern edge of the island. At the guesthouse we were treated to one of the best meals on the tour. And since the owners, John and Wayan, are sponsors of the local children’s dance troop we were able to observe a classical dance class. Additionally, John provided a serendipitous surprise for even Julie and me by bringing in a master dancer, a graduate of the local troop, to perform for us. Such authentic connection experiences are exactly what we strive for at Imprint. We had discovered Kebun Impian on our research trip, completely by accident. We were driving the rugged coast road and had left late in the morning and without any food. There were no opportunities for a meal on the remote route and Maia was getting very hungry. We promised we would stop at the first place serving food, no matter what it was like or what it cost. Kebun Impian was the next opportunity we encountered and we certainly would not have stopped there under other circumstances. What a find!
Sometimes travel serendipity emerges or evolves from some great problem or challenge. On our 2006 Greece tour we were traveling on Orthodox Easter Sunday, the biggest holiday on the Greek calendar. Our challenge was finding some place to have lunch as virtually the entire country shuts down and people spend the day with their families. We stopped at a seaside town, gave our tour members some free time for lunch, and encouraged them to try to make connections with any families they found celebrating Easter. I found a family roasting a lamb on a spit (the typical Easter meal), asked if I could take photos, and was invited to join in. I had a wonderful cultural connection experience, but that paled in comparison to the experience that was to come. About a dozen of our group had walked along the coast seeking an open taverna for lunch. Eventually, they knocked on the door of a closed taverna to inquire. Though closed, the owner was preparing a lamb for his family and invited them to join. After lunch the rest of our group was invited to share in the wine and our entire tour group ended up celebrating Easter with the taverna owner and his family.
Some of Imprint’s travel partners were found through seemingly chance encounters. Our Thai ground agent was discovered after reading an article in a travel magazine. We found our India partner through a chance meeting at a St Patrick’s Day party here in Seattle. And now this spring, while escorting a Rick Steves group through Switzerland, I made the acquaintance of a South African living in Germany, running a paragliding service near Neuschwanstein Castle. He operates adventure tours, has been involved in tourism his whole life, and is anxious to assist in organizing a tour of southern Africa should Imprint decide we want to tour there. Based on our past track record with these “chance” encounters, we have a lot of faith in them and are inclined to follow where they lead. Some of you have expressed interest in traveling to Africa and there is certainly a buzz about South Africa with the current World Cup Championships taking place there right now. So we are currently taking a look at developing a southern Africa tour. It would certainly take in the Wine and Garden Routes, Robben Island, Capetown highlights, Kruger National Park, and Blyde River Canyon of South Africa, plus Victoria Falls and probably the Okavango Delta in Botswana. If a trip of this nature excites your travel imagination, please let us know. We would target 2013 or 2014. We will start a designated mailing list for a southern Africa tour. If you are interested please send us an email.
Certainly many of you have had serendipitous travel experiences yourselves. We’d like to hear about them! Please send us an email recounting your own story. We’ll publish 2 or 3 of the best stories and the author of the best travel serendipity tale will be awarded $50 off on any Imprint Tour.
First Bali Tour
In April we successfully concluded our inaugural Beautiful Bali tour. We felt the tour was a resounding success and early tour member evaluations support our assumption. We were pleased to escort 20 intrepid travelers for two weeks of exploration and travel connections on this Southeast Asian island paradise. We were happy with the balance of world class sights, remote destinations, and cultural connection experiences we were able to provide – hallmarks of an Imprint Tour experience. Moreover, we enjoyed and were gratified by the flexible attitudes and spirited camaraderie provided by our first group of Indonesian travelers.
The tour began with a day of performances. We started our morning journeying to Batubulan, home of one of the island’s premier Barong Dance troupes. The colorful, engaging, and energetic performance introduced us to the richness of Balinese culture, exemplified by its compelling tradition of dance drama. Beyond the pageantry of the Barong, we were reminded of the comedic whimsy that contributes to the accessibility of Balinese drama for westerners. Moreover, we were reminded of the tremendous creativity that pervades all Balinese culture. From dance to painting, sculpting, clothing, architecture, ritual, and music – all Balinese life seems to be artistically expressed. Even the kites are masterpieces. Later that same day we traveled south to the Bukit Penninsula where we enjoyed a rousing rendition of Bali’s most famous dance: Kecak. The Kecak dance, a segment of the Ramayana uniquely accompanied by an all-male a cappella choir, is even more dramatic than the Barong. The chorus chants in percussive, rhythmic style reminiscent of a troop of monkeys. The drama was nearly upstaged by the venue: dramatic cliff-top Ulu Watu temple and the Indian Ocean sunset provided the backdrop.
The next 3 days were spent on neighboring Java. After an early morning flight we enjoyed a city tour of Jogjakarta, Java’s cultural capital. We employed becaks (peddle rickshaws) rather than air conditioned vans in order to directly support the local economy and to facilitate a cultural connection between our tour members and the becak drivers. We visited the Taman Sari water palace, an underground mosque, the famous bird market, and the Kraton, or Sultan’s palace. On the morning of day 4 we visited mighty Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist stupa/temple. The first glimpse of the huge stupa/mountain was breathtaking, even for those of us who had seen it before. Likewise Prambanan, our day 5 destination, was visually inspiring. The impressive 9th century Hindu temple complex rises majestically from the east Javanese plains.
An evening flight returned us to Bali and we set out for undiscovered Amed the next day. Along the way we visited the sacred Goa Lawah (Bat Cave temple), Tenganan Bali Aga traditional village, and engaged in our favorite cultural connection experience. We had lunch at a local guesthouse, Kebun Impian near Ujung. After relaxing by and in their lovely, seaside pool we had a delicious meal of local fish, perfectly barbequed over coconut husk embers. The guesthouse sponsors the local children’s dance group, young Balinese girls learning the traditional dances of their culture. We were able to observe their practice and then were treated to a performance by a master dancer, a graduate of their group. We observed her applying her makeup and putting on her costume as well as her exquisite dance. We continued on to Amed on one of Bali’s most remote and rugged roads. We passed rural villages which rarely see tourists (the children ran out to great our bus at every stop), corn and peanut cultivation, and stunning views out to the Lombok Straits and many scalloped, outrigger-lined beaches.
At Amed we enjoyed a full day on the sailing yacht Condor. Being on the water was exhilarating and gave us a unique visual perspective on the island. The snorkeling highlight was a visit to Tulamben, where a sunken ship in clear, shallow waters provides an artificial reef for colorful fish. After a free day of rest and recreation we continued on to Mt Batur, one of Bali’s active volcanoes. On the way we enjoyed endless vistas of emerald rice terraces and a visit to the island’s most sacred temple complex, Besakih. We arrived at Batur in mist and fog but were rewarded with a stunning sunrise the next day. Some of the more intrepid of our group arose early and hiked to the crater of the growing lava dome within the caldera to greet the first rays of the sun. From Batur we continued our journey south to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. While there we visited Lake Bratan, the Bali Botanical Gardens, the 15th century palace complex at Klung Kung, the sacred cave of Goa Gajah, the wall carvings of Yeh Pulu, and the 10th century funerary monuments of Gunung Kawi. We also participated in a temple water purification ceremony at the sacred springs of Tirta Empol for another connection highlight.
Departing from Ubud we visited the various craft villages south of town. They included Mas (woodcarving), Batuan (painting), Sukawati (masks and puppets), and Batubulan (stonecarving). We then visited Denpasarss sprawling Badung and Kumbasari markets before heading to our final destination: Tanah Lot. The extremely picturesque temple, located on a tidal island off Bali’s west coast, is rivaled only by its setting. The temple is surrounded by a dramatic, rugged coastline and serenaded by a crashing surf. We closed out our visit with a happy hour on the bluff overlooking the temple as the sun sunk in the western sea.
We had many other adventures and experiences both great and small. Perhaps the hardest to articulate is the experience of the Balinese themselves. They are a very contented, happy people – always ready with a genuine smile of welcome. The culture is extremely cooperative and community based and their Hindu animist religion imbues every aspect of their daily lives. It is easy to be engaged by or even enamored of them. Additionally we encountered tropical flowers and their attendant aromas at every stop. The entire Balinese experience was accompanied by the ubiquitous strains of the indigenous gamelan music. We loved our time there and are anxious to take another group of travelers to expose them to the richness of Bali. We are busy planning next years’ tour for April 2011. We’ll be ready to announce final details, dates, and rates by Aug. 1.
The tour began with a day of performances. We started our morning journeying to Batubulan, home of one of the island’s premier Barong Dance troupes. The colorful, engaging, and energetic performance introduced us to the richness of Balinese culture, exemplified by its compelling tradition of dance drama. Beyond the pageantry of the Barong, we were reminded of the comedic whimsy that contributes to the accessibility of Balinese drama for westerners. Moreover, we were reminded of the tremendous creativity that pervades all Balinese culture. From dance to painting, sculpting, clothing, architecture, ritual, and music – all Balinese life seems to be artistically expressed. Even the kites are masterpieces. Later that same day we traveled south to the Bukit Penninsula where we enjoyed a rousing rendition of Bali’s most famous dance: Kecak. The Kecak dance, a segment of the Ramayana uniquely accompanied by an all-male a cappella choir, is even more dramatic than the Barong. The chorus chants in percussive, rhythmic style reminiscent of a troop of monkeys. The drama was nearly upstaged by the venue: dramatic cliff-top Ulu Watu temple and the Indian Ocean sunset provided the backdrop.
The next 3 days were spent on neighboring Java. After an early morning flight we enjoyed a city tour of Jogjakarta, Java’s cultural capital. We employed becaks (peddle rickshaws) rather than air conditioned vans in order to directly support the local economy and to facilitate a cultural connection between our tour members and the becak drivers. We visited the Taman Sari water palace, an underground mosque, the famous bird market, and the Kraton, or Sultan’s palace. On the morning of day 4 we visited mighty Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist stupa/temple. The first glimpse of the huge stupa/mountain was breathtaking, even for those of us who had seen it before. Likewise Prambanan, our day 5 destination, was visually inspiring. The impressive 9th century Hindu temple complex rises majestically from the east Javanese plains.
An evening flight returned us to Bali and we set out for undiscovered Amed the next day. Along the way we visited the sacred Goa Lawah (Bat Cave temple), Tenganan Bali Aga traditional village, and engaged in our favorite cultural connection experience. We had lunch at a local guesthouse, Kebun Impian near Ujung. After relaxing by and in their lovely, seaside pool we had a delicious meal of local fish, perfectly barbequed over coconut husk embers. The guesthouse sponsors the local children’s dance group, young Balinese girls learning the traditional dances of their culture. We were able to observe their practice and then were treated to a performance by a master dancer, a graduate of their group. We observed her applying her makeup and putting on her costume as well as her exquisite dance. We continued on to Amed on one of Bali’s most remote and rugged roads. We passed rural villages which rarely see tourists (the children ran out to great our bus at every stop), corn and peanut cultivation, and stunning views out to the Lombok Straits and many scalloped, outrigger-lined beaches.
At Amed we enjoyed a full day on the sailing yacht Condor. Being on the water was exhilarating and gave us a unique visual perspective on the island. The snorkeling highlight was a visit to Tulamben, where a sunken ship in clear, shallow waters provides an artificial reef for colorful fish. After a free day of rest and recreation we continued on to Mt Batur, one of Bali’s active volcanoes. On the way we enjoyed endless vistas of emerald rice terraces and a visit to the island’s most sacred temple complex, Besakih. We arrived at Batur in mist and fog but were rewarded with a stunning sunrise the next day. Some of the more intrepid of our group arose early and hiked to the crater of the growing lava dome within the caldera to greet the first rays of the sun. From Batur we continued our journey south to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. While there we visited Lake Bratan, the Bali Botanical Gardens, the 15th century palace complex at Klung Kung, the sacred cave of Goa Gajah, the wall carvings of Yeh Pulu, and the 10th century funerary monuments of Gunung Kawi. We also participated in a temple water purification ceremony at the sacred springs of Tirta Empol for another connection highlight.
Departing from Ubud we visited the various craft villages south of town. They included Mas (woodcarving), Batuan (painting), Sukawati (masks and puppets), and Batubulan (stonecarving). We then visited Denpasarss sprawling Badung and Kumbasari markets before heading to our final destination: Tanah Lot. The extremely picturesque temple, located on a tidal island off Bali’s west coast, is rivaled only by its setting. The temple is surrounded by a dramatic, rugged coastline and serenaded by a crashing surf. We closed out our visit with a happy hour on the bluff overlooking the temple as the sun sunk in the western sea.
We had many other adventures and experiences both great and small. Perhaps the hardest to articulate is the experience of the Balinese themselves. They are a very contented, happy people – always ready with a genuine smile of welcome. The culture is extremely cooperative and community based and their Hindu animist religion imbues every aspect of their daily lives. It is easy to be engaged by or even enamored of them. Additionally we encountered tropical flowers and their attendant aromas at every stop. The entire Balinese experience was accompanied by the ubiquitous strains of the indigenous gamelan music. We loved our time there and are anxious to take another group of travelers to expose them to the richness of Bali. We are busy planning next years’ tour for April 2011. We’ll be ready to announce final details, dates, and rates by Aug. 1.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)