Imprint Tours

Ubud - Bali's Cultural Capital

2010-08-23T15:18:00.000-07:00

One of the highlights of our "Beautiful Bali" tour is our extended stay in Ubud. Located in Bali's mountainous interior, Ubud boasts a cooler climate and central access to many of the island's cultural and artistic attractions. Important archeological sights are easy day trips. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in white-water rafting and cycling. Art fans can indulge in the island's best art museums and craft villages nearby produce wood carving, stone carving, silver and gold, glass, baskets, painting, masks, and even kites. For visitors wishing to partake of Bali's storied dance drama, Ubud offers multiple venues nightly and virtually all Balinese performance arts are available. Ubud is also a center for a large variety of cultural classes. There are even Bird, Reptile, and Elephant Adventure Parks nearby for family entertainment. And if one gets run down with all the activities, Ubud's many inexpensive spas can help with relaxation and recovery.
For us at Imprint, it is the easy access to Bali's best ancient sites that make Ubud a prime destination. Located about 15 miles north of Ubud, Gunung Kawi is Bali's oldest, largest, and most impressive ancient sight. The monument consists of 10 large candi (shrines), situated in a beautiful river valley. Visitors descend to the verdant valley floor via a stone staircase surrounded by rice terraces. The 25-foot candi are dramatically cut from cliff sides, each in its own niche (see photo above). The monuments are memorials to the Balinese royalty of the 11th century, making them almost 1000 years old. Nearby are the sacred springs of Tirta Empol. This is one of the island's most sacred spots and, not surprisingly, one of the most important temples, Pura Tirta Empol, is adjacent to the springs. The spring waters are believed to have special curative and restorative powers and pilgrims come from across the island for ritual purification and blessing in the temple. The spring waters are channeled into a holding tank from which they gush through a series of spouts into the ritual bathing pool. In keeping with our philosophy of making authentic connections, on our Beautiful Bali tour we participate in a water purification ceremony. Our local guide prepares offerings on our behalf and instructs us on proper customs, etiquette, and procedure. Entering the waist-deep pool, we traverse from spout to spout, ducking our heads under each in turn. It is refreshing on both a spiritual and physical level. Afterword, we enter the temple grounds and receive a blessing from one of the priests. It is the most meaningful connection experience on the tour. Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empol together have been nominated for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage protection list.
Fifteen minutes east of Ubud travelers find Bedulu, once the capital of the 13th-14th century Pejeng dynasty. Two ancient sights, Goa Gajah and Yeh Pulu are located there. Goa Gajah is a small natural cave that was enhanced to create a religious sanctuary. Inside the cave visitors see lingam (the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva), yoni (the female counterpart), and a statue of Ganesh. But it is the creatively carved exterior that impresses. The cave entrance is the mouth of an elaborately carved demon. Gigantic fingers on either side of the demon's face push back a riotous collection of lesser but equally detailed stone carvings. In front of the cave are twin bathing pools with ceremonial waterspouts for requisite ritual bathing. Nearby is Yeh Pulu, an 80-foot long carved cliff face, thought to be a hermitage from the 14th century. The figures can be read as a narrative. Theories on the subject range from scenes of everyday life to the life of Krishna. Visitors can identify a man carrying two jugs, a woman with jewelry, a hunting scene, and Ganesh. The site is attended by a local priest, who offers blessings to visitors (another great connection experience).
A bit further afield, about 17 miles east of Ubud, the town of Semarapura (or Klungkung) hosts the interesting Taman Kertha Gosa palace complex. Klungkung was once the island's most powerful kingdom. The complex is laid out in a large square with courtyards, gardens, pavilions, and moats. The highlights of the palace grounds are two pavilions, Kertha Gosa and Bale Kambang. Kertha Gosa, or Hall of Justice, was essentially Klungkung's court where disputes were settled. The ceilings are completely covered in the creative and elaborate Klungkung style of painting. The paintings depict scenes from a Balinese epic, cautionary tales of punishment for crimes, and various tales from the Hindu epic, Mahabharata. Bale Kambang, the Floating Pavilion, displays equally lavish paintings. The subjects here include Balinese folk tales and the astrological calendar. The small museum on site has a few archeological pieces and exhibits of songket weaving (silver or gold threaded cloth), palm wine making, and palm sugar extraction.
In addition to the historical sights near Ubud, there are a handful of interesting temples as well. Pura Kebo Edan (Crazy Buffalo Temple) contains a 700-year old, 10-foot high statue known as the Giant of Pejang. Pura Pusering Jagat (Navel of the World Temple) is a large, 700-year old temple containing a famous pair of stone carvings, a lingam and joni, which attract young couples wanting to conceive children. Pura Penataran Sasih contains the Fallen Moon of Pejeng, the largest single-piece cast bronze drum in the world. It is thought to be more than 1000 years old. Balinese legend suggests the drum was a fallen moon which came to earth from the heavens, hence the name.
Ambitious travelers could visit all of these sights in a busy, full day using a rental car or motorcycle. But a more leisurely pace spread over two days is recommended. For those not wanting to rent their own vehicle, local transport in the form of Bemos (frequent, communal vans) provide easy access as well. And lastly, Ubud has many, many tour operators that organize excursions. Even farther- flung sights are possible from Ubud where organized excursions to Tanah Lot, Lake Bratan, Mt Batur, and Besakih are possible.

Eat, Pray, Love

2010-08-23T15:07:00.000-07:00

Julie and I recently went to see “Eat, Pray, Love” based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir of self-discovery. Our interest was more than entertainment as Gilbert’s story has helped increase interest in travel to Italy, India, and Bali. As Imprint has tours to two of those destinations, we were curious to see if the movie would significantly add to the mystique and desirability of travel there.
I must confess to being somewhat underwhelmed by EPL. I would be hard-pressed to disagree with reviews of the movie, which were decidedly lukewarm. As seems always to be the case, the movie does not stack up to the book. The performances seemed lackluster and the storyline not nearly as engaging as that of the book. But what I was really looking for was the compelling imagery that is ubiquitous in Bali and India. Those destinations are the most visually stunning and diverse of any I’ve visited. I had hoped this movie might be one of those in which the setting becomes one of the story’s stars. In this I was truly disappointed. With few exceptions the movie did little to portray the richness of either location.
But EPL is not a bad movie, just one that failed to live up to admittedly high expectations. And it does contain fleeting moments that embody the sense of place in India and Bali. For India, there is really only one brief scene, Gilbert’s arrival in India. The movie does a good job of portraying the intensity, chaos, crowdedness, and “in-your-face” aspect of one’s first moments in India. The beggars at Gilbert’s taxi window are a reality of the Indian experience. Unfortunately, it is only these pejorative elements moviegoers will see. Absent are the colors, majesty, history, architectural grandeur, sensory stimulation, and mysticism (the ashram scenes do little to illuminate this facet) that imbue every waking moment of an India visit. The only glimpse of sumptuous India is the wedding scene with the spectacular wedding dress and sensuous feel and bright colors of the celebration.
Bali fares better with lovely glimpses of emerald rice terraces, verdant flora, and dramatic coastal and beach locations. One also gets some views of the local architecture, colorful clothing, and signature mountains. In particular we enjoyed the lovely shots of hiking within the caldera of Mt. Batur. Some subtle touches were nice. Like the farmer “herding” ducks in the opening sequence and the vibrant market scenes. Perhaps the most interesting feature portrayed was cultural: the palm reader Ketut. The actor does a marvelous job conveying the genuine, contented, light-hearted, and smiling Balinese people. But again, a majority of the most alluring aspects of the Balinese landscape were absent. There were no examples of the most spectacular vistas, beautiful temple architecture, archeological monuments, or the captivating Balinese dance dramas.
In summary, EPL as an inspirational travelogue gets a thumbs down from this reviewer. But for those of you who have been to Bali it will be fun to revisit the sense of place and culture. For those of you considering going to Bali, it will show you some of Bali’s more subtle features. All told, EPL is worth a DVD rental for a quiet evening of vicarious travel – but won’t even scratch the surface of the story that is India or Bali.

Mehrangarh Fort

2010-08-23T15:06:00.000-07:00

Rising high above the city of Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s mightiest and most famous fort, Mehrangarh. Widely regarded as the finest example of Hindu military architecture the citadel rises a total of 400 feet above the city and creates an imposing profile. It covers over three square miles and its red sandstone walls are 120 feet high and 70 feet thick, extending a shear cliff to dramatic effect. The soaring ramparts afford dramatic views over the city of Jodhpur and the surrounding area. Known as the “Citadel of the Sun” (mihir is Sanskrit for sun and the sun god was the traditional chief deity of the Rathore dynasty) its colossal proportions and dramatic lines have inspired many glowing descriptions. Rudyard Kipling called it, “the work of giants.”
In 1458 the 15th Rathore ruler, Rao Jodha, decided to move his capital from Mandore to a new location which he named for himself - Jodhpur. A new fortress/palace complex was begun on a hill known as Bhaurcheeria, the mountain of birds. Although the initial ramparts and palace were built by Jodha, most of the current fort dates from the 17th century. As is the case with many storied fortresses in India, legends about Mehrangarh abound. According to one story, a hermit lived on the hill and had to be moved during construction. The hermit was angered by being forced to leave his home and therefore cursed the maharaja: “Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!” Even today this part of Rajasthan is prone to drought. One legend told is absolutely true. Jodha took some rather extreme measures to ensure the site would be blessed. He buried a man, Rajiya Bhambi, alive in the foundations (a common practice). In return the man’s family would be cared for by the Rathores. To this day his descendants live in an estate given them by the Maharaja.
The museum contained within the fort is one of the finest in Rajasthan, due in part to the fact that the fort is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Visitors can rent excellent audio guides which have been developed with contributions by the current Maharaja and use his voice. Within the massive walls are several palaces displaying intricate carvings, frescoes, and spacious courtyards. As with other Rajasthani forts, one must negotiate a steep zigzag road that winds up through multiple gates - seven in all. The Jaipol (victory) gate commemorates a victory over Jaipur and Bikaner and the Fatehpol gate celebrates defeat of the Mughals. These gates and this citadel were not all ceremonial. Evidence that the fort was more than a showpiece are easy to spot on the second gate in the form of cannonball marks. In addition to the gates and palaces the museum contains a room of royal palanquins, including an elaborate gilded version won in a battle against Gujarat in the 18th century. There are weapons, costumes, howdahs (), musical instruments, furniture, and paintings, all of which illuminate the lives of the Rajput princes and their families. An additional fascinating feature is the existence of palm prints on the walls, just inside the Loha Gate, from the burned wives of fallen maharajas when they committed sati (ritual self-immolation). The prints are still objects of local veneration.
On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour Mehrangarh represents one of the highlights of rugged Rajasthan. We’ll spend an entire morning exploring the fort. Additionally, we’ll have plenty of free time to explore Jodhpur below. The labyrinthine old commercial center of the city contains multiple bazaars selling fruit, vegetables, spices, sweets, silver, and handicrafts. A majority of the adobe houses have been painted blue, giving Jodhpur its moniker – the Blue City.

Serendipity and South Africa

2010-08-23T15:04:00.000-07:00

During 30+ years of personal travel and 15 years of professional travel, most of the richest experiences we’ve had were completely unexpected and unplanned. The serendipity of travel is one of the great reasons to actually get out and explore this fabulous planet. Any regular traveler will report the same – the best experiences are those that happen spontaneously. The truly unquantifiable element is why serendipity seems to happen so regularly while traveling. We have no explanation, only the assurance that it is true. Somehow the universe seems to reward the intrepid spirit of exploration.
On my very first trip abroad, in 1978, I had one of my most memorable travel encounters. I was hitch-hiking in Belgium, on my way to Ostende to catch a ferry to England (no Chunnel or cheap flights in those days). I was picked up by a friendly Belgian man in a modest car. He spoke almost no English but somehow was able to communicate that his wife did speak English and he insisted I come home with him. My only reservation was that I wanted to make sure I made it to Ostende in time to make the last boat of the day. He seemed to understand this concern, and by hand gestures and much smiling was able to convince me not to worry. My host’s wife was surprised to see an extra face at their door (no cell phones either) but did not miss a beat in welcoming me into their tiny home. She did speak some English and I was treated to lunch. After lunch I happened to mention that all I knew of Belgian culture was Belgian waffles. That prompted a discussion in Flemish followed by the couple (plus their dog) piling into the car and taking me into the nearby village where I was treated to Belgian waffles – with strawberries and whipped cream. Eventually we got back in the car and the charming couple drove me about an hour to Ostende, dropping me at the boat dock. They drove away smiling and waving, having devoted the better part of a day to my comfort and leaving me with a warm and happy travel memory.
In December 1992 Julie and I had returned to Switzerland to work a winter season in Arosa, where I had worked in my twenties. After procuring jobs we had 2 weeks of free time and decided to go to France. We arrived in Paris and got an inexpensive hotel in the suburbs. We did some of the usual sight-seeing but the sun was gone by 4:00PM and so the evenings were fairly boring. On about the third night of sitting in our room after dinner we decided we had to venture out. We opted to head to the Champs-Elysees, knowing there is a lot of energy and activity there. Additionally, we could potentially stay warm by going into shops. Our first clue that something unusual was happening was our arrival in the Charles DeGaul/Etoille metro station where masses of people were being funneled to a single exit. We had no clue what was happening but were simply swept along by the tide of humanity. It turns out the Olympic torch for the Albertville Winter Olympics, complete with parade, was scheduled to arrive that night. We joined the massive crowds lining the street (plenty warm!) and were feted to a fabulous parade.
We have experienced travel serendipity at Imprint Tours as well. Some of our best tour experiences originated in chance encounters and some of our excellent travel partners were discovered in a similar fashion. On our most recent tour of Bali one of the highlights was a lunch visit to an out-of-the-way guesthouse, Kebun Impian, and a scenic drive along the rugged eastern edge of the island. At the guesthouse we were treated to one of the best meals on the tour. And since the owners, John and Wayan, are sponsors of the local children’s dance troop we were able to observe a classical dance class. Additionally, John provided a serendipitous surprise for even Julie and me by bringing in a master dancer, a graduate of the local troop, to perform for us. Such authentic connection experiences are exactly what we strive for at Imprint. We had discovered Kebun Impian on our research trip, completely by accident. We were driving the rugged coast road and had left late in the morning and without any food. There were no opportunities for a meal on the remote route and Maia was getting very hungry. We promised we would stop at the first place serving food, no matter what it was like or what it cost. Kebun Impian was the next opportunity we encountered and we certainly would not have stopped there under other circumstances. What a find!
Sometimes travel serendipity emerges or evolves from some great problem or challenge. On our 2006 Greece tour we were traveling on Orthodox Easter Sunday, the biggest holiday on the Greek calendar. Our challenge was finding some place to have lunch as virtually the entire country shuts down and people spend the day with their families. We stopped at a seaside town, gave our tour members some free time for lunch, and encouraged them to try to make connections with any families they found celebrating Easter. I found a family roasting a lamb on a spit (the typical Easter meal), asked if I could take photos, and was invited to join in. I had a wonderful cultural connection experience, but that paled in comparison to the experience that was to come. About a dozen of our group had walked along the coast seeking an open taverna for lunch. Eventually, they knocked on the door of a closed taverna to inquire. Though closed, the owner was preparing a lamb for his family and invited them to join. After lunch the rest of our group was invited to share in the wine and our entire tour group ended up celebrating Easter with the taverna owner and his family.
Some of Imprint’s travel partners were found through seemingly chance encounters. Our Thai ground agent was discovered after reading an article in a travel magazine. We found our India partner through a chance meeting at a St Patrick’s Day party here in Seattle. And now this spring, while escorting a Rick Steves group through Switzerland, I made the acquaintance of a South African living in Germany, running a paragliding service near Neuschwanstein Castle. He operates adventure tours, has been involved in tourism his whole life, and is anxious to assist in organizing a tour of southern Africa should Imprint decide we want to tour there. Based on our past track record with these “chance” encounters, we have a lot of faith in them and are inclined to follow where they lead. Some of you have expressed interest in traveling to Africa and there is certainly a buzz about South Africa with the current World Cup Championships taking place there right now. So we are currently taking a look at developing a southern Africa tour. It would certainly take in the Wine and Garden Routes, Robben Island, Capetown highlights, Kruger National Park, and Blyde River Canyon of South Africa, plus Victoria Falls and probably the Okavango Delta in Botswana. If a trip of this nature excites your travel imagination, please let us know. We would target 2013 or 2014. We will start a designated mailing list for a southern Africa tour. If you are interested please send us an email.
Certainly many of you have had serendipitous travel experiences yourselves. We’d like to hear about them! Please send us an email recounting your own story. We’ll publish 2 or 3 of the best stories and the author of the best travel serendipity tale will be awarded $50 off on any Imprint Tour.

First Bali Tour

2010-08-23T15:03:00.000-07:00

In April we successfully concluded our inaugural Beautiful Bali tour. We felt the tour was a resounding success and early tour member evaluations support our assumption. We were pleased to escort 20 intrepid travelers for two weeks of exploration and travel connections on this Southeast Asian island paradise. We were happy with the balance of world class sights, remote destinations, and cultural connection experiences we were able to provide – hallmarks of an Imprint Tour experience. Moreover, we enjoyed and were gratified by the flexible attitudes and spirited camaraderie provided by our first group of Indonesian travelers.
The tour began with a day of performances. We started our morning journeying to Batubulan, home of one of the island’s premier Barong Dance troupes. The colorful, engaging, and energetic performance introduced us to the richness of Balinese culture, exemplified by its compelling tradition of dance drama. Beyond the pageantry of the Barong, we were reminded of the comedic whimsy that contributes to the accessibility of Balinese drama for westerners. Moreover, we were reminded of the tremendous creativity that pervades all Balinese culture. From dance to painting, sculpting, clothing, architecture, ritual, and music – all Balinese life seems to be artistically expressed. Even the kites are masterpieces. Later that same day we traveled south to the Bukit Penninsula where we enjoyed a rousing rendition of Bali’s most famous dance: Kecak. The Kecak dance, a segment of the Ramayana uniquely accompanied by an all-male a cappella choir, is even more dramatic than the Barong. The chorus chants in percussive, rhythmic style reminiscent of a troop of monkeys. The drama was nearly upstaged by the venue: dramatic cliff-top Ulu Watu temple and the Indian Ocean sunset provided the backdrop.
The next 3 days were spent on neighboring Java. After an early morning flight we enjoyed a city tour of Jogjakarta, Java’s cultural capital. We employed becaks (peddle rickshaws) rather than air conditioned vans in order to directly support the local economy and to facilitate a cultural connection between our tour members and the becak drivers. We visited the Taman Sari water palace, an underground mosque, the famous bird market, and the Kraton, or Sultan’s palace. On the morning of day 4 we visited mighty Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist stupa/temple. The first glimpse of the huge stupa/mountain was breathtaking, even for those of us who had seen it before. Likewise Prambanan, our day 5 destination, was visually inspiring. The impressive 9th century Hindu temple complex rises majestically from the east Javanese plains.
An evening flight returned us to Bali and we set out for undiscovered Amed the next day. Along the way we visited the sacred Goa Lawah (Bat Cave temple), Tenganan Bali Aga traditional village, and engaged in our favorite cultural connection experience. We had lunch at a local guesthouse, Kebun Impian near Ujung. After relaxing by and in their lovely, seaside pool we had a delicious meal of local fish, perfectly barbequed over coconut husk embers. The guesthouse sponsors the local children’s dance group, young Balinese girls learning the traditional dances of their culture. We were able to observe their practice and then were treated to a performance by a master dancer, a graduate of their group. We observed her applying her makeup and putting on her costume as well as her exquisite dance. We continued on to Amed on one of Bali’s most remote and rugged roads. We passed rural villages which rarely see tourists (the children ran out to great our bus at every stop), corn and peanut cultivation, and stunning views out to the Lombok Straits and many scalloped, outrigger-lined beaches.
At Amed we enjoyed a full day on the sailing yacht Condor. Being on the water was exhilarating and gave us a unique visual perspective on the island. The snorkeling highlight was a visit to Tulamben, where a sunken ship in clear, shallow waters provides an artificial reef for colorful fish. After a free day of rest and recreation we continued on to Mt Batur, one of Bali’s active volcanoes. On the way we enjoyed endless vistas of emerald rice terraces and a visit to the island’s most sacred temple complex, Besakih. We arrived at Batur in mist and fog but were rewarded with a stunning sunrise the next day. Some of the more intrepid of our group arose early and hiked to the crater of the growing lava dome within the caldera to greet the first rays of the sun. From Batur we continued our journey south to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. While there we visited Lake Bratan, the Bali Botanical Gardens, the 15th century palace complex at Klung Kung, the sacred cave of Goa Gajah, the wall carvings of Yeh Pulu, and the 10th century funerary monuments of Gunung Kawi. We also participated in a temple water purification ceremony at the sacred springs of Tirta Empol for another connection highlight.
Departing from Ubud we visited the various craft villages south of town. They included Mas (woodcarving), Batuan (painting), Sukawati (masks and puppets), and Batubulan (stonecarving). We then visited Denpasarss sprawling Badung and Kumbasari markets before heading to our final destination: Tanah Lot. The extremely picturesque temple, located on a tidal island off Bali’s west coast, is rivaled only by its setting. The temple is surrounded by a dramatic, rugged coastline and serenaded by a crashing surf. We closed out our visit with a happy hour on the bluff overlooking the temple as the sun sunk in the western sea.
We had many other adventures and experiences both great and small. Perhaps the hardest to articulate is the experience of the Balinese themselves. They are a very contented, happy people – always ready with a genuine smile of welcome. The culture is extremely cooperative and community based and their Hindu animist religion imbues every aspect of their daily lives. It is easy to be engaged by or even enamored of them. Additionally we encountered tropical flowers and their attendant aromas at every stop. The entire Balinese experience was accompanied by the ubiquitous strains of the indigenous gamelan music. We loved our time there and are anxious to take another group of travelers to expose them to the richness of Bali. We are busy planning next years’ tour for April 2011. We’ll be ready to announce final details, dates, and rates by Aug. 1.

Taj Mahal

2010-04-30T10:44:00.001-07:00

Any list of the world’s greatest sights would certainly include the Taj Mahal. Perhaps the most famous building in the world and considered by many the most beautiful. The Taj has inspired visitors for three and a half centuries. Poet Rabindranath Tagore wrote, “Let the splendor of the diamond, pearl and ruby vanish like the magic shimmer of the rainbow. Only let this one teardrop, the Taj Mahal, glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time.” Rudyard Kipling referred to it as “the embodiment of all things pure.” Emperor Shah Jehan, the man who built the Taj, said, “The sight of this mansion creates sorrowing sighs and makes the sun and moon shed tears from their eyes." The crowning jewel of Hindu-Islamic architecture, the Taj was built as a mausoleum for Jehan’s favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. In the centuries since its building, the Taj has become the world’s most revered monument to love.
Mumtaz Mahal died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. The emperor’s overwhelming grief is well documented in court records as well as in his personal writings. Jehan lost all enthusiasm for administration and instead immersed himself in the details of building the Taj. Construction took 12 years (10 more to complete the entire complex). The building required several engineering innovations such as a huge brick scaffold that mirrored the tomb, a 15-kilometer earthen ramp and special wagons to transport marble, and an elaborate post-and-beam pulley system for lifting the blocks into place. Building materials were brought from all over India and Asia: white marble from Rajasthan, jasper from Punjab, jade from China, turquoise from Tibet, Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, sapphire from Sri Lanka, and carnelian from Arabia. Twenty-eight types of precious and semi-precious stones were used for inlaid decoration. The labor force consisted of 20,000 workers, countless specialists recruited from near and distant lands, and more than 1000 elephants.
The Taj Mahal’s symmetry, elegance, and perfect proportions are legendary. The visitor’s first view after entering the complex (a distance of about 400 yards) is truly breathtaking. The harmonious perfection seems to touch something of the eternal in the heart of the viewer. The basic design elements are Persian with a Mughal flair. The tomb sits on a square plinth and consists of a large, multi-chambered cube with chamfered corners (essentially an unequal octagon) topped by the famous onion dome, itself topped by a finial. Each of the long sides boasts a central, massive pishtaq (vaulted archway) framed by echoing, smaller, stacked pairs of pishtaqs. Stacked pishtaqs adorn the chamfered corners as well and four minarets anchor the plinth corners. The overall effect is beautiful serene, and majestic. But as is often the case with truly inspiring architecture, the Taj is equally impressive in its intricate details. The exterior is beautifully decorated by passages from the Quran in pietra dura inlaid calligraphy. The interior work is more delicate, with inlaid precious and semi-precious stones. Additionally, the cenotaphs of Jahan and Mahal are surrounded by intricately carved marble screens. The cenotaphs themselves are decorated with detailed inlays and calligraphic inscriptions.
The garden complex that surrounds the Taj is often overlooked but is beautiful in and of itself. A classic charbagh (Mughal garden), it contains lovely flower gardens and lawns, geometrically divided by reflecting pools and walkways. The impressive sandstone buildings that flank the Taj are a mosque and a Jawab. Jawab literally means “answer” and its primary purpose is architectural balance for the complex.
Myths about the Taj are many. The most common is that Shah Jahan planned a twin mausoleum across the river, a mirror of the Taj in black marble. It is a dramatic and fanciful concept, but unfortunately is not true. Nor is the oft repeated rumor that Jahan ordered the death or mutilation on the architects and craftsmen who built the Taj in order that its secrets remain a mystery. Other false legends include the Taj sinking, that it is a Hindu temple, and that the British ordered it to be demolished at one time.
India, a land of enchantment, boasts many impressive sights but the Taj Mahal stands apart. A British artist once observed, "It appears like a perfect pearl on an azure ground. The effect is such I have never experienced from any other work of art."

Borobudur

2010-04-30T10:43:00.001-07:00

Borobudur is widely regarded as Southeast Asia’s second most significant archeological site (after Angkor Wat) and is Indonesia’s most popular tourist site. Once referred to as “a mountain of a thousand statues” it is a massive 8th-century Buddhist temple, the largest and most unusual in the world. It is the scale of the complex that most impresses. Borobudur is built from two million cubic feet of stone blocks, forming an enormous hill-like stupa (bell-shaped structure, symbol of enlightenment and shrine to the Buddha) of concentric layers. The base perimeter exceeds 1500 feet and the structure rises to a height of 115 feet. Six square terraces are topped by 3 circular terraces, all crowned by a single large stupa. Stairways lead pilgrims and visitors past 2672 carved panels, 500+ Buddha statues, hundreds of carved balustrades, and several ceremonially carved gateways. The dramatic setting of the temple mount adds to the experience. It is located in a lush valley surrounded by verdant mountains and two volcanoes.
Although the enormity of the temple is impressive, the structure is equally intriguing for its design objectives and the details of its decoration. Seen from above, the hill temple portrays a colossal tantric Mandela, a model of the Buddhist cosmos in stone. Pilgrims visiting the complex are led by staircases and galleries on a metaphorical journey beginning with the Kamadhatu (world of desires), continues up through the Rupadhatu (world of forms), and arrives finally at the Arupadhatu (formless world). Borobudur is a 3D guide to Enlightenment.
The “Pilgrim’s Walk” begins with a series of relief panels on the base of the monument. All told, the monument contains 1460 narrative panels (and 1212 decorative panels; a total of 27,000 sq. ft.) in which sculptors have carved a virtual textbook of Buddhist doctrine as well as aspects of Javanese life 1000 years ago. As noted above, these first scenes depict the Kamadhatu, the physical world, with many images of passion and desire. The good are rewarded by incarnation as higher life forms while the bad are reincarnated as lesser life forms. Pilgrims next enter the Rupadhatu level, represented by the 2nd through 5th terraces. They follow the galleries in a clockwise direction, winding up terrace by terrace past hundreds of panels. The second terrace tells the story of the Buddha’s birth (Lalitavistara) plus some stories of his previous lives (Jataka) and stories of other legendary figures (Avadana). The Jataka and Avadana continue onto the third terrace but give way to the Gandavyuha, the story of the Buddha’s search for Perfect Wisdom which continues throughout the fourth and fifth terraces. The last three round terraces represent the Arupadhatu. Pilgrims ascend from the Rupadhatu level where men still interacted with forms (narrative panels) to the Arupadhatu level where decorations cease, symbolically representing the formless world.
In addition to the relief panels in the galleries, visitors encounter many statues of the Buddha. The statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position, can be found in niches throughout the first five levels of the temple. There are 432 statues on the lower levels. The three circular terraces are adorned with 72 small latticed stupas, each containing a Buddha statue. The peaceful Buddhas in their private bell-shaped stupas constitute the most iconic image of Borobudur. The crowning stupa is empty and there is no evidence to suggest what might have been originally held within.
There is no written record of who built Borobudur. It is estimated that its construction commenced around 800 AD and took about 75 years to complete. So too the facts surrounding its abandonment remain a mystery. Around the turn of the millennium the center of Javanese power shifted to the east and a series of volcanic eruptions rocked central Java. Many scholars believe this to be the time of abandonment but it may have happened when the local population converted to Islam in the 15th century. Borobudur was “rediscovered” by an expedition sent by the British Governor-General of Java, Thomas Raffles. The complex was completely covered by ash and vegetation and it would be 20 years before the entire temple mount was unearthed. Unfortunately, after its discovery by westerners, nothing was done to protect the monument and much damage was done by souvenir hunters (43 of original 504 Buddha statues are missing, 300 of those remaining are damaged, mostly headless) and by the hot and wet climate (after the protection of sediment and vegetation was removed). A restoration project from 1907-1911 cleaned the monument but did not resolve a drainage problem that threatened to undermine the structure. In the 1970’s a UNESCO restoration solved the drainage problem and stabilized the foundation and Borobudur was listed as a World Heritage site in 1991. Borobudur is visited as part of the 3-day Jogjakarta excursion on the Beautiful Bali tour.

Imprint's Northern India Tour Announcement

2010-03-25T12:18:00.000-07:00

We are excited to officially announce Imprint Tours’ Incredible India tour. We feel we are offering the best 19 days of Northern India, including Varanasi, Khajuraho, Agra, and Rajasthan. We’ve written about many countries using the word “diverse” to describe them. But now that India is the subject we must revise the concept. India brings a new standard of meaning to the description. We will visit diverse landscapes, cities, architecture, archeological sites, religious sites and monuments, and even subcultures while touring India. Read on to get a glimpse of what we have in store.
Two exceptional highlights of the tour include Diwali and the world-famous Pushkar Camel Fair, a desert extravaganza. We’ll enjoy Diwali on our first evening of the tour in Delhi. After our get-acquainted meeting and dinner, we’ll enjoy a coach tour of the city, occasionally participating in this grand celebration. Observed all over India, Diwali is the Festival of Lights. Originally a harvest festival, participants lit clay lamps and offered celebratory thanks to Laxmi, goddess of prosperity. Today the lights are electrical or pyrotechnic, gifts are exchanged, houses and buildings are lavishly decorated, and a carnival atmosphere prevails. Delhi is famous for its Diwali festivities and it will be a grand way to kick off our tour. Both Diwali and the Pushkar fair are determined by the lunar calendar and we are fortunate to be able to include them both on a single tour (not possible again for several years). The Pushkar fair is India’s most famous desert festival, as desert nomads come from all over Rajasthan to buy, sell, and trade camels and cattle. Many festivities accompany the gathering and we’ll enjoy the colorful spectacle of this desert pageant. There will be elaborately decorated camels, horses, and caravans and we can watch camel and cart races and other competitions. There will be music, traditional food, handicrafts, magicians, jugglers, dancers, snake charmers, and, as with Diwali, a carnival atmosphere. Both Diwali and Pushkar are events not to be missed.
Other tour highlights include the holy city of Varanasi, the Taj Mahal, the erotic temple architecture of Khajuraho, and the forts, palaces, and desert of Rajasthan. While in Varanasi we will visit the home of some local musicians (Varanasi is also known as a center for Indian music) for an evening of dining and music. We’ll take a boat ride on the Ganges at both dawn and dusk. At sunrise we’ll see the devout engaging in their sacred ablutions and in the evening we’ll attend India’s most famous aarti ceremony as the faithful bid good night to mother Ganga. Before departing we’ll day-trip to nearby Sarnath, where the Buddha preached his first sermon. Visiting the archeological site, museum, and several Buddhist temples will present an opportunity to learn about this ancient Indian religion. At Khajuraho we’ll visit the temples with their famous erotic sculptures, affording one of several occasions to explore the mysteries of Hinduism. Of course, no tour of India is complete without a pilgrimage to the Taj Mahal and we will also visit the abandoned Mughal capital of Fatehpur Sikri outside Agra.
In Rajasthan, in addition to sacred Pushkar, we’ll visit Jaipur, enchanting Udaipur, Jodhpur, and a resort operated by the Bishnoi tribal group. Jaipur is home to Amber palace, a fortress-like mountain retreat where we will ride elephants up the zigzag approach road to its mighty gate; Jantar Mantar, an 18th-century astronomical observatory; and the famous Hawa Mahal, or Palace of the Winds. Next on our itinerary is romantic Udaipur, our favorite city in India. Enchantingly situated on the shore of lovely Lake Pichola, Udaipur hosts two floating palaces as well as the many-tiered City Palace. In addition to a tour of the City Palace we’ll enjoy a sunset cruise on the lake. Then we’ll retreat to a lake-side, garden venue for dinner with Udaipur’s illuminated temples and palaces reflecting on the lake as our view. On a day-trip we’ll visit the formidable Kumbelgarh fort, a 15th–century fort situated in the Aravalli hills that fulfills your fantasies about Rajput grandeur. En route to the Bishnoi resort we’ll visit Ranakpur, an exquisitely carved Jain temple in a rugged valley. From the resort we’ll organize a cultural connection by visiting a Bishnoi tribal village. The Bishnois are India’s original environmentalists, maintaining a careful symbiotic relationship with their natural surroundings for centuries. Part of their stewardship has been the preservation of the local Blackbuck antelope. During our visit we’ll meet Bishnoi farmers, shepherds, and weavers; learn about their customs, lifestyles, and even observe a traditional opium ceremony; and visit the Blackbuck sanctuary. We’ll also venture out into the Thar Desert for a sunset camel trek and a traditional Rajasthani feast, attended by Rajasthani folk music and dance. While in Jodhpur we’ll explore the labyrinthine streets of the “Blue City” and tour mighty Mehrangarh Fort, greatest in Rajasthan and still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur.
The sights and activities listed above are just the beginning. The tour will also include the major sights of Delhi, Akbar’s Mausoleum in Sikandra, Chand Baori step well, the temples and cenotaphs of ancient Orchha, Ajmer’s Red Temple, and more. In addition we’ll be organizing numerous other “connection” experiences such as a cooking demonstration, an ashram visit, a Tiffin lunch, a sari/turban “tying” lesson, a “Bollywood” movie night, and tea with our Sikh host in Jaipur, and a craft village visit. As you can see we’ll be busy. But as always on an Imprint tour we’re building in plenty of down time with a number of free afternoons to explore on your own or relax.
One thing every visitor to India learns right away – things are done on India’s terms, not the other way around. Even McDonalds, now that they have gained access to India, serves Vegi Burgers and Chicken instead of their classic hamburgers. So it is with our tour of India. Imprint values normally include modest, mid-range accommodations, an abundance of free time for exploring and personal cultural connections, and inclusion of about half of the meals on a tour. But we would rather bend to the dictates of Indian culture than be bruised by insisting on our normal style. This provides a great opportunity for us and you. India can easily overwhelm, and an equal need here is for occasional and timely insulation. We will continue to organize the best connection experiences possible and provide ample time for personal exploration, but we will also provide comfortable places of retreat. For accommodations, we will continue to use modest, family-run, well located hotels when they can be arranged but we’re also opting for extra luxury, in the form of four Heritage-style hotels (usually converted forts or palaces) at well-timed stops. Regarding meals, we will provide much more than usual - 40 meals out of 53 [all breakfasts and 22 of the remaining 35 meals]. By providing more meals than usual we can be surer of sanitary conditions, food quality, and good value. All these added values and still less than $190 per day.

Indian Religions

2010-02-16T10:28:00.000-08:00

India is most certainly the most diverse nation on earth. Among the most prominent examples of its cultural variety are its many religions. India was the birthplace of two of the world’s major religions, Hinduism and Buddhism, is home to 140 million Muslims, and also hosts Jains, Sikhs, Christians, Jews, and Zoroastrians. India is home to the world’s largest Hindu temple, the mother temple of the Sikhs and Jains, one of the largest mosques in the world, and several of Buddhism’s most sacred sites. Religion remains a vital part of Indian culture today. A vast majority of Indians are active participants and religious tolerance is enshrined in law and practiced by custom. On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour we’ll have opportunity to engage five of India’s major religions in significant ways. We’ll learn about Islam, Hinduism, Sikhism, Jainism, and Buddhism. For those of our readers not familiar with them, we think a short primer is in order.
It seems most natural to begin with Hinduism, the religion we in the west most identify with Indian culture and the faith of 80% of the population. Widely regarded as the planet’s oldest active religion, Hinduism is not easily defined. Unlike other great religions it does not trace its origins to a single leader, does not have a holy book, and does not proselytize. Nor does it advocate the worship of a particular deity. Hindus believe in Brahman (not to be confused with Brahma below) the eternal, uncreated, infinite divine essence. The many gods of the Hindu pantheon are merely knowable manifestations of Brahman. Hindus believe that earthly life is cyclical. Humans are born and reborn (samsara) with the circumstances of rebirth determined by karma (conduct). Eventually an individual can gain enough self-knowledge to escape the cycle of reincarnation and achieve liberation (maksha). This tenet of Hinduism, which suggests one’s lot in life is determined by past action, has justified and reinforced India’s social caste system. Hinduism boasts a long tradition of extreme tolerance. Intolerance has never been widely supported and historical incidents were always politically motivated.
Although Hindus worship a vast pantheon of deities, the most widely worshiped are Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Brahma, the creator, created the universe and all life. Vishnu, the preserver, oversees the cycle of birth and rebirth and takes many forms. Famous incarnations include Rama and Krishna. Shiva, the destroyer, is the destroyer of evil in the world and has many faces, some of which are terrible. These and the other deities are represented by a huge variety of images and idols which symbolize varying aspects of the divine presence. With devotion to so many deities the Indian calendar is rife with a huge spectrum of Hindu festivals. These festive occasions keep Hinduism grounded in the emotional consciousness of the nation and make Indian culture rich and colorful - especially for visitors. One of the biggest and most colorful celebrations is Diwali, the Festival of Light. The timing of Diwali is determined by the lunar calendar and this year falls in early November, a perfect time for us to begin our November tour.
Despite the religious partition following independence in 1947, Islam remains a significant force in Indian life. The attempted segregation of the subcontinent was not completely successful and Islam remains India’s second largest religion. Moreover, so much of India’s history was determined or influenced by the Mughals (Muslim dynasty) that the Islamic impact on the fundamental fabric of Indian society cannot be underestimated. Unlike the other religions to be discussed below, Islam was not an offshoot of Hinduism. Islam proclaimed the brotherhood of mankind and the required submission to a single god, a novel religious vision for the subcontinent. Muslim invaders in the 12th century and Mughal rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries spread the concepts of Islam across India. Early on Islam was a militant, conquering religion but later mystics tempered its outlook and many Hindus were converted with a message of peace and universal love and a rejection of the caste system. During the golden age of the Mughal dynasties, a synthesis of Hindu and Muslim elements was promulgated and the flowering of a great society ensued as each side accommodated and enriched the other.
Muslims believe in the one god, Allah. They attempt to surrender their own wills to the will of Allah, which has been revealed by the prophet Mohammed and recorded in the Quran. Religious practice is based on Five Pillars: shahada (declaration of faith); prayer (5 times per day); zakat (alms giving); fasting (during Ramadan); and the Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca). On the tour we will visit Jama Mosque and the great Mughal architecture of Delhi and Agra.
Sikkhism evolved in northern India in the early 16th century and is a great example of the Indian capacity for accommodation and tolerance. Sikkhism was founded by Guru Nanak who was born a Hindu but was inspired by Islam. He preached a message of synergy between the two faiths, suggesting the basic teachings of the two creeds were compatible. Nanak’s teachings were eventually consolidated into the Granth Sahib, the holy book of Sikkhism. Sikhs are monotheists, believe in karma and rebirth, but oppose castes and advocate universal equality. Devout Sikhs wear five symbols of their faith: uncut hair, a special comb, wrist guard, breeches, and a sword (or dagger, which has created some difficulties for Sikhs in our age of strict security controls). During the tour we will be staying in a Sikh-owned hotel and hope to have a “tea time’ chat with our host.
A fourth Indian religion we’ll encounter is Jainism. The foundational philosophy of Jainism is that the rejection of worldly desires and self-conquest leads to perfect wisdom. They practice the purification of the soul via right conduct, right faith, and right knowledge. They advocate complete non-violence and sympathy for all living beings which has gained them widespread acceptance. Devout followers cover their noses and mouths to prevent the killing of even insects while breathing. We’ll visit the spectacularly carved Jain temple of Ranakpur in Rajasthan.
The final religion we’ll encounter has mostly died out in India, but had its birth here centuries ago. Buddhism, still practice throughout the rest of Asia, was started by Guatam Buddha as yet another offshoot of Hinduism. According to Buddhism, life is ruled by the laws of impermanence and causation. Everything is subject to change and nothing occurs by chance. The concepts of an immortal soul and rebirth follow from these two basic ideas and Karma is the driving force behind the occurrence of life’s events. The Buddha suggested the middle path, a balanced way of life between the extremes of self-indulgence and abstinence. Buddhism is founded on four Noble Truths: suffering is universal; it is caused by desire; it can be prevented by eliminating desire; and desire can be eliminated by following the Nobel Eightfold Path. The Path consists of living a life of right understanding, right intention, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right awareness, and right concentration. Successfully acting on these doctrines allows a soul to achieve Nirvana. We will have the great opportunity to visit Sarnath, a significant Buddhist pilgrimage site and the location of the Buddha’s first public sermon.

Magic in Bali

2010-02-16T10:27:00.000-08:00

One of the most interesting and alluring aspects of Balinese culture is the very real place of magic in Balinese life. The roots of the phenomena are found in the island’s Hindu-Animist religion. Stone Age Balinese Animism, the worship of the spirits of nature and ancestors, has changed little even down to the present. In the 8th century, Mahayana Buddhism swept across Southeast Asia, and the Balinese blended the new religion’s most complimentary tenets with local animist practices. Hinduism followed in the early 16th century and like Buddhism before it, was blended with local practices. Today on Bali they still fervently worship the spirits of nature and the belief in evil and good spirits is universally held, which in turn leads to a preoccupation with magic - both black and white.
The belief in magic and its manipulation permeates the actions, thinking, and rituals of the Balinese. It is an earnest matter to locals and not to be trivialized. Although its practice is not obvious to casual observers, visitors should be aware of its influence. Understanding this bona fide phenomenon helps visitors gain a deeper understanding of the highly ritualized nature of Balinese society. Examples are numerous. They include the ubiquitous preoccupation of ritual cleansing, offerings, amulets, ceremonies, and rituals as well as dance drama. The Balinese believe everyone has the capacity for good or evil (black or white magic). Everyone accumulates spiritual energy, called sakti. When a person’s heart is good the acquisition of sakti is applied to withstand evil influences. Some people have a greater capacity for sakti and become priests or shamans. Those with dark hearts use the sakti for harm. Adepts become Leyaks (roughly translated as witches). The Balinese preoccupation with ritual cleansing flows naturally from this universal belief in the influence of sakti. Additionally, understanding this belief system illuminates the islanders’ the obsession with offerings and ritual atonement. Many temple rituals include blood offerings and cockfights are part of atonement ceremonies. Preoccupation with sakti also explains the omnipresence of amulets and charms.
Probably the easiest opportunity for visitors to experience a magic ceremony in Bali is dance drama. Several of the most popular performances are originally based on some form of trance ritual. The inclination to trance is a permanent and widespread undercurrent of Balinese ritual and religious celebration. It is a relatively accessible way for gods to enter into human affairs. Everyone present participates as all feel the threshold between worlds to a greater or lesser degree. Trance ceremonies are always accompanied by music, a chanting choir, and incense to aid the process. Any dance that includes Rangda (the witch queen) will certainly include some elements of trance. As the embodiment of evil, Rangda must be controlled and defeated. The dancer playing Rangda enters a low level trance - for authenticity and for protection. The same is true of a performer characterizing the Barong (a creature of good). A very common tourist dance requiring true trance is the Kecak Fire Dance. The entranced performer is able to walk or dance barefoot through hot coals. Another, less commonly encountered trance dance is the Sanghyang Dedari (Angel Deity). In this dance pre-adolescent girls receive the spirits of sanghyangs (heavenly nymphs). For authentic temple ceremonies Dedari dancers are chosen for their proclivity to trance and engage in rigorous training. However, no dance training is allowed. While in trance they dance a relaxed version of the Legong, which normally requires months of training and practice. It should be noted that dance drama performed for tourists, while authentic, lacks much of the spiritual dynamism of those performed at religious ceremonies and Dedari performances for tourists are most certainly rehearsed.
A final example of the powerful place of magic can be observed in Bali’s history. One of the events most difficult for westerners to understand is the tradition of Puputan, or ritual suicide. Balinese history has several occasions where locals faced insurmountable odds and resorted to mass suicide. Outsiders are hard pressed to understand these events. But one possible insight is the consideration that the powerful belief in sakti explains the islanders’ actions. It has been suggested that Puputan was intended as an ultimate act of sacrifice, whereby a local ruler, powerless to avoid defeat, could in death summon the forces of the supernatural to aid his cause. It was an attempt to enlist a real and present spiritual power against their enemies.
Whatever our beliefs as western visitors to Bali, the fact remains that the Balinese themselves truly believe in magic and its active part in their everyday lives. Visitors would do well to respect that belief no matter their own perspectives. Moreover, understanding those beliefs illuminates one’s experience of so much of the ritualized elements of Balinese life. Attending a temple celebration, a cremation, or even a traditional dance drama has deeper meaning when one understands the spiritual underpinnings and fundamental belief systems.

Imprint's India

2010-01-23T18:04:00.000-08:00

We are very excited about the tour of India we are currently developing. Watch for next month’s newsletter for a final itinerary and dates. While some details remain to be sorted out, the basic structure of the tour is already in place. We are visiting northern India including Rajasthan, Delhi, and Uttar Pradesh. The tour will begin and end in Delhi, India’s capital. Delhi is currently getting a facelift as it prepares to host the Commonwealth Games in October this year. Construction projects and road works were everywhere last month when we visited. The city is putting its best foot forward and next year will be an ideal time to visit. Best of all, Delhi’s brand new metro system will be operational, allowing easy, efficient, inexpensive transportation across the city’s vast expanse. Delhi’s main sights include the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid (mosque), the tombs of Humayan, Safdarjang, and the Lodi rulers, the Qutb Minar, and a number of wonderful temples, both ancient and modern. After Delhi we’ll plunge into romantic Rajasthan.
In all likelihood, the images you have in your mind of India come from the state of Rajasthan. Rajasthan boasts magnificent hilltop forts, Maharaja’s palaces, deserts, beautiful temples, camels and elephants, women in bright saris and men in multi-colored turbans. We will visit Jaipur with its famed Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), city palace, and Jantar Mantar. The Jantar Mantar appears to be a collection of giant, modern sculptures but is in fact an 18th century astronomical observatory. Near Jaipur is the magnificent Amber Palace. As much fortress as palace, Amber commands a dramatic hilltop in a nearby valley. We’ll ride elephants up the zigzag approach road.
We will also visit Udaipur, one of India’s most romantic destinations, and our personal favorite. The setting itself is breathtaking with the town built on the hills surrounding lovely lake Pichola. Twin “floating” palaces adorn tiny islands in the lake, making this one of India’s most picturesque locations. We’ll visit the multi-tiered city palace, have a sunset cruise on the lake, and dine lakeside. Nearby is Ranakpur, one of the most magnificent and important Jain temples in India. The temple boasts a number of halls supported by a forest of intricately carved, white marble columns (1444 or them), no two alike.
One unique connection experience we are excited to include is a visit to Rohetgarh, a heritage hotel in a small village south of Jodhpur. While the hotel itself is quite luxurious it is connecting with the Bishnois tribal peoples of the region that is our goal. Our host family has a unique relationship with the Bishnois, allowing us special access. The Bishnois have been called the premier ecologists of the world with a centuries-long record of responsible stewardship of their environment. We’ll visit one of their villages, learning about their customs, ceremonies, and relationship to the land. We’ll journey to the Black Buck antelope preserve, a rare species that owes its survival to the Bishnois. We’ll also visit the homes of shepherds, farmers, and weavers to learn about their way of life.
Before we leave Rajasthan we will be sure to visit mighty Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur. Still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur, this is Rajasthan’s signature fortress. We will also arrange for a night in the desert. We’ll explore the desert from the back of a camel, enjoy a desert sunset, and have an evening of Rajasthani food, folk music, and dancing.
The state of Uttar Pradesh is full of delights but the two destinations we have selected are perhaps the most significant stops on our itinerary. We’ll visit Agra and Varanasi. Agra is home to the sublime Taj Mahal. Some say the Taj is the most beautiful building in the world. It has been described as “a teardrop on the cheek of eternity” and “the embodiment of all things pure.” Our local guide will make the story of Shah Jehan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal come alive as we hear the history of this storied building. Varanasi is India’s most holy city, an impressive claim in a nation of such ancient and storied mysticism. One of the world’s oldest cities, situated on the banks of the sacred Ganges River, Varanasi is host to an unending stream of Hindu pilgrims. They come to perform ritual ablutions in the sacred waters, accessing the river at any of the dozens of ghats that line the river. It is a unique and mystical city and not to be missed. Our guide will explain the intricate and intimate rituals that are taking place publicly while helping us to understand the foundational philosophies of Hindu faith. Varanasi is also a center of Indian music and we have an opportunity to make another connection. We are able to arrange an evening with some local musicians, meeting them and learning about their music. Lastly, the important Buddhist site of Sarnath is a mere 45 minute drive from Varanasi. We’ll visit this historic site of the Buddha’s first public sermon and learn about this great religion.
We hope it is obvious from the brief description above that we are trying to get the most diverse taste possible in 2 ½ weeks. We’ll also visit an ashram, enjoy classical entertainment, provide cooking demonstration and/or lessons, and participate in important festivals. From the classic experiences of famous temples, forts, palaces, the Taj Mahal and Varanasi to desert camel treks, village visits, and musicians’ homes we hope to experience a significant portion of the mosaic of India. Stay tuned in the months to come as this story continues to unfold.

*At the time of writing we were unable to guarantee certain experiences. However, we are quite confident we’ll be visiting Pushkar and the world-famous temples of Khajuraho.

Intro to India

2010-01-23T18:03:00.000-08:00

“India, incredible India” proclaims the advertising slogan for the Indian National tourist bureau. For once the hype is matched by the reality. India is a truly incredible destination. In describing travel destinations I have often referred to various countries as diverse. But India brings new meaning to the expression. She has been called the world’s most multidimensional country. India is a multi-religious, multi-ethnic, multi-linguistic, multi-cultural nation of varied geological landscapes. One can hope to do little more than scratch the surface in a single visit. In its introduction, the Rough Guide to India describes her in this way: "It is impossible not to be astonished by India. Nowhere on Earth does humanity present itself in such a dizzying, creative burst of cultures and religions, races and tongues. Every aspect of the country presents itself on a massive, exaggerated scale, worthy in comparison only to the superlative mountains that overshadow it. It is this variety which provides a breathtaking ensemble for experiences that is uniquely Indian. Perhaps the only thing more difficult than to be indifferent to India would be to describe or understand India completely. There are perhaps very few nations in the world with the enormous variety that India has to offer. Modern day India represents the largest democracy in the world with a seamless picture of unity in diversity unparalleled anywhere else."
In three decades of international travel I have frequently been asked my favorite travel destination. The answer to that question has always and unequivocally been India. India is, simply put, the richest travel destination I’ve had the privilege to visit. But I have always struggled to explain my preference. India defies easy explanation, perhaps any explanation at all. I am again reduced to relying on someone else’s eloquence. Keith Bellows of the National Geographic Society has expressed the experience of India better than any other I’ve encountered. He wrote: "There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won't go. For me, India is such a place. When I first visited, I was stunned by the richness of the land, by its lush beauty and exotic architecture, by its ability to overload the senses with the pure, concentrated intensity of its colors, smells, tastes, and sounds. . . I had been seeing the world in black & white and, when brought face-to-face with India, experienced everything re-rendered in brilliant technicolor."
Lest we get carried away with richness of the Indian experience, it bears noting that India is a difficult place to travel. Beyond the fact that India is the archetypal non-western experience the abject poverty and lack of cleanliness are unavoidable. Beggars, open sewers, and garbage are a part of every street scene. Furthermore, the touts, merchants, vendors, and rickshaw drivers are ubiquitous and relentless in the pursuit of your Rupees. In short, India is for real travelers – those who can look beyond the unpleasant veneer and embrace the richness within.
Here at Imprint Tours we have always sought to connect our travelers with the cultures we visit. We work very hard at removing anything that insulates us from authentic local experiences. But India creates her own rules of engagement. This is a country that requires some insulation. And although we generally encourage and facilitate independent travelers, India is a country that necessitates an organized tour (whether Imprint or another tour company). Therefore, our challenge as we create our India tour (in process right now) is to strike a balance between creating authentic connection experiences and providing sufficient buffers from the excesses of Indian society to insure a enriching but still comfortable travel experience. We encourage you to check out the newsletter in coming months as we describe how we plan to accomplish this goal.

India trip 1992

2009-11-23T20:59:00.000-08:00

Monday May 10 [First day in India] We arrived in Bombay from Kenya and continued on to Madras. Upon arrival we headed into the center via commuter train. The train rambled from station to station with blind beggars getting on at regular intervals. The suburbs (or slums rather) turned into the center with people and refuse everywhere. We looked for rooms for about 45 mins., sweat running off our bodies [May is pre-monsoon and the hottest time of the year in India]. Finally we phoned a guesthouse recommended in LP [Lonely Planet] located a bit further out. They had rooms available so we took a tuk-tuk out there. Careening around busses in the small vehicle was an adventure in itself. When I saw the Broadlands Hotel I knew we had finally taken a turn for the better – friendly staff, beautiful colors several courtyards and 3 levels of rooms. We chose one on the 2nd floor and I sighed when they opened the dbl. doors overlooking a big field with a large mosque at the end. The complex once housed the lesser wives of a shiek and as we looked around at sunset it was wonderful to be in such serene surroundings. They even employ boys to run out and get food and drink for you, do the laundry, etc. They cater to your every need. We enjoyed a huge bottle of cold beer on the rooftop while Drei delivered vegetable samosas and egg fried rice wrapped in a palm leaf. We were in heaven.

Southern Rajasthan

Thur. June 3 After a night train from Bombay to Ahmedabad (Gujarat), we continued on by train to Abu Road in Rajasthan. The 5-hour journey was pleasantly shared with an Indian family that filled our compartment to bursting. We napped in the berths above and the family very generously shared their lunch with us. It was nice tasting some home specialties and they were actually very kind. At Abu Road we endured the typical information run-around at the bus station. It was the usual mad rush for the vehicle when the bus pulled up. We managed seats and soon were underway in a bus full of Rajashani peasants. Little girls used our packs as seats. Women sang us ½ way to Udaipur and turbaned men stood guard, toothless and smiling. The road looked worse for wear as it wound up the mtn. Bridges were being rebuilt by hand. It’s still amazing even though we’ve seen it enough – women hammering boulders into gravel and carrying the pebbles on their heads to the construction site. Here they still work in their colorful Rajasthani clothing and best jewelry from head to toe in the sweltering heat. As we reached the summit it cooled down a lot and was quite comfortable walking to the guest house. We showered and went right off to the Delwara Jain temples before their 6PM closing. After chasing off a few pesky teenagers we were the only ones touring the site. Two of the temples were fabulous in their intricate sculptural work. It was exciting viewing something hat we’d planned 2 years ago. The sculptural work is really unsurpassed. How someone can carve something so small and delicate out of marble is awesome. We returned to the touristy village. Crafts galore and more tempted us. While purchasing bangles we heard music and pursued its source. A 4-piece ensemble played while women took turns dancing within the crowd of other women celebrating an upcoming wedding. An old man appeared and explained things for us. Then, of course, he invited us to his shop. We followed the group of celebrating women. Four women symbolically placed 2 urns on the couple’s heads who led the still-dancing procession. We wanted to shop anyway so we returned to the man’s shop. It turned out to be a tailor’s stall with a smooth salesman. We ended up ordering 3 sari tops I’d wanted made and 2 pairs of reversible pants. Reid succumbed as well, ordering 2 dress shirts, 2 pairs slacks, and 3 pieces of silk for gifts. As it had gotten late we went to the Veena restaurant and had a nice Thali meal. Then back to the hotel for one of the best sleeps we’ve had all trip.

Udaipur
Sat June 5 We’d booked a private bus company so it was much more comfortable seating. Riding by the window on the Cliffside I often couldn’t bear to watch as the corners came up quickly. We were down to the flat lands in a short time. When we left the Mt Abu road I thought this must be a back road. It was a one lane, paved road but partially overgrown by roadside shrubbery. How two buses or a truck managed to pass was surprising to me. Needless to say, the shoulder was used as often as the road. The 4 ½ hour journey was interesting crossing the dryer plains. Low stone fences ran up and around hillsides, marking out small farms. There was just enough greenery to remind one of Mykonos. The occasional grazing camel and colorfully dressed women and white-dressed men with florescent-colored turbans dispelled that connection. We had a break at a junction where soft drinks and snacks were available, small children sold dates, sacred cows wandered in awkward places and women hid shyly behind their saris. As we approached Udaipur we saw more women with chiffony, see-through and neon-colored half saris. Evening darkness was upon us as we arrived in Udaipur. We hired a rickshaw to look for lodgings. We settled on the Lalghat Guesthouse with its cool lavender blue walls and friendly faces. Looking out over Lake Pichola at the floodlit Lake Palace Hotel and Jag Mandir island I knew we had to stay here. This is truly one of the most beautiful, most romantic settings we’ve encountered. It is no wonder so many travelers list Udaipur as their favorite destination. I walked up to the Mahal Café near the Jagdish Temple for take out so Reid could rest – not feeling very well. We made our dining room in a small arched niche overlooking the lake. The view is magical.
Sun June 6 We had our breakfast in our upstairs portico niche. We sat under the stone canopy of arches and watched the bathing activity at the ghats below. These sections of stairs leading down to the lake are the centerpiece of daily activity. The dhobi wallas were beating clothes clean. The whacking echoed off the walls amidst sounds of children splashing and swimming. After breakfast we walked through the labyrinth of lanes along the shore hillside up to the city palace. This series of royal structures sprawls above the lake in three major buildings dating from the 15th to 19th centuries. The royal family still inhabits one portion and one segment has been converted into a hotel. We toured the older segments of faded glory with our usual flock of curious Indian tourists. The palace is somewhat worse for wear but still impressive with its mosaic works, fancy arches, and sweeping lake views. After a quick afternoon nap we headed up to the Monsoon Palace by rickshaw. We climbed the serpentine road up the 7 km. to the palace. At the top we enjoyed the panoramic view of the lake and city below as the sun sank in the west. Stunning!

Tues June 8 After a light breakfast we packed up and headed to the boat launch for the trip over to the Lake Palace Hotel for our ultimate splurge. After checking in we were taken to our room. Welcome drinks arrived and we toasted our elegant surroundings. The air conditioning was heavenly. The television was flicked on to MTV Asia. I soaked in our backyard view of the lake and the Monsoon Palace on the hill above from the small sitting room. We just relaxed and went through the goodies and literature left for us. Bathrobes were hanging in the closet and the bathroom was stocked with necessities and luxuries. Eventually we ventured out of our comfortable accommodations and toured the hotel. Magazines lay all over the bar, the gift shop was full of fun books and had a miniature artist at work. I previewed every nook and cranny for future photo work then decided non lunch at the coffee shop. Tucked away in a turreted corner we were nearly level with the water and a city view filled the floor-to-ceiling windows. The food was delicious and the whole staff was ours since there were very few guests. The pool beckoned us next and we donned our robes to walk down. Tucked in the southern corner, one enters by a narrow marble passageway. A huge mango tree takes up the corner and the small pool is the center piece. The turrets and stone canopies shading us made exquisite photographic material so I hopped around snapping shots. We read and relaxed until early evening came for too fast. We showered and got down to the boat launch for the evening lake cruise. The guide gave us information as the boat cruised by the city palace allowing a lovely perspective. We then visited Jag Mandir island. The light was perfect, the setting ideal, and the time spent was too short. The towering buildings over the main square afforded some beautiful views from its turrets and below through the elephant pavilion back at the city. We returned to the hotel and ordered room service for dinner. Afterward we headed to the bar for the evening’s entertainment. In the courtyard a puppet show was already underway. We caught the last 15 minutes which was just enough. Very colorful and entertaining. The night air was fragrant with orchids and gardenias. A waiter in full livery brought us beer in silver flagons and we stayed with a small group of guests to watch the dance performance. It was well done and very intimate sitting under the stars. The exotic architecture above, musicians sitting under the trellised plants behind and the puppeteers turned dancers whirling in front of us, balancing as many as 7 glasses of water on their heads while one performed finger cymbal acrobatics. The crowed dispersed with shows finale so we had the whole bar to ourselves. Sitting in our regal chairs we tipped another silver mug of beer and toasted before the island lit in the distance.

Ranakpur
Wed June 9 Room service breakfast was unsurpassed [still at Lake Palace Hotel]. Reid enjoyed the room while I took one last round of the hotel’s cozy spots, sitting in one turret to write awhile, seeing something else to photograph, moving to another niche. On our way to the pool for a morning swim and employee gladly allowed us to peek into two sumptuous suites. They were really fun to see. After a last Lake Palace lunch we took the boat back to the shore to catch our bus to Ranakpur. I believe I’ve never had such a pleasurable hotel experience. We learned our bus had broken down and would not be replaces so we splurged for a hired car. We passed through rolling hills dotted with greenery climbing to a leafy forested gorge to Ranakpur – a celebrated pilgrimage for Jains. The secluded center is unlike other shrines in India. There are no thronging crowds nor busy bazaars selling souvenirs. The tranquil, desolate character of the place is in keeping with the austere ideals of the Jains. These surroundings contain no hint of the treasure that lies there - the Adishvara Temple, renowned for its architectural and sculptural beauty. Intricately carved from white marble, this complex contains 29 halls and a forest of pillars (1444 our guidebook says) – no two alike. This was our discovery as the sun huddled low on the hilltop. We got some great exterior shots and were on our way when a young priest called to us. He invited us to come for the evening “candle and light” ceremony. We returned and our host, Serma, ushered us into the temple. Brief but resonating, the ceremony took place to the thumping of a large drum, ringing bells, and loudly crashing cymbals. You could feel it down to your toes – vibrating. The temple was lit only by candles and the atmosphere was heightened by burning incense and chanting. It was a truly transcendent moment. Reid says it is one of the most significant he’s ever experienced. Something about the combination of incense, drumming, bells, and chanting really touches the divine within. Before retiring we accepted Serma’s offer to give us a morning tour of the temple and returned to our guesthouse.

Thurs June 10 After breakfast we returned to the temple complex. Sitting in the shade of one of the smaller temples we enjoyed a cool breeze while watching monkeys frolic and vibrant green parrots flitting by. Serma met us on the stairs and toured us completely through the complex including his special niche for morning meditation. Sitting cross-legged on the ground he demonstrated his mantra and gave us a blessing. His chanting once again touched us like the previous night’s ceremony. Later Serma helped arrange a car for us to get out to Kumbhalgarh fort since no bus was available. 1 ½ hours later the first of the seven gates stood before us. Outside of a handful of villagers within the walls we were alone in the fortress. We climbed slowly up to the palace on the highest point. We woke a sleeping man to unlock the gates to the inner chambers, revealing the discreet quarters for the concealed maharinis. Elephant borders decorated the wall in this female chamber. Elsewhere, saturated walls of blue, pink, and golden called out with the opening of every door and the rooftop howled with a strong warm wind and afforded a far-reaching view of the valleys below. On our descent, gazing back up at the cream-colored walls with bold, thick, black stripes was impressive. We set out to walk the ramparts. They were truly impressive, stretching out along the undulating landscape as far as the eye can see. It reminded us of images we’d seen of the Great Wall of China. We did not see a single other tourist the entire day.

Jodhpur
Fri June 11 Another 5-hour bus ride brought us to the mighty fortress city of Jodhpur. As we approached the city Mehangarh Fort could be seen through the dusty haze. After attending to logistical business we took a rickshaw up to the fort. The tiny streets of the old city were chaotic but amazingly colorful – primarily blue with green trim. In fact, Jodhpur is known as the “Blue City”. In this case the houses were painted blue as a contrast to those of the Brahmins. The impressive fort sprawls across the top of a 125-meter high hill and houses a whole series of courtyards and palaces. A costumed guide took us along with a group of Israelis through all the splendor. The chambers were decorated incredibly; the views and architecture were stunning. The ornamentation (paintings, armory, silver objects, elephant howdahs, musical instruments) made an interesting tour yet I much preferred the windy isolation and solitary enchantment of Kumbhalgarh. In one direction you see the lovely see of blue that is the old city. In the other, you see the Jasmant Thanda, a stunning white marble memorial, up on the hill.

Jaisalmer
Sun June 13 We awoke early to be picked up for our desert camel trek. Our turbaned guide, Kehta, arrived to take us to the edge of town where our “steeds” awaited us. Raju, my scraggly camel for the next few hours kneeled down for me to mount. Settled comfortably in the quilted saddles, we headed out with a third camel carrying our two guides. Dark clouds obscured the sun mercifully and gave the desert a dramatic glow where rays shot through in the distance. Women searched the barren ground for firewood, children waved hello, and the cenotaphs of Bada Bagh stood out mysteriously in the background. When we arrived at the oasis we were able to examine the monuments up close. Above a reservoir the royal cenotaphs stand with their beautifully carved ceilings and equestrian reliefs. This was another of those incredible moments, walking amongst the tombs without a soul to disturb the spell. We continued on into the desert about an hour to Amar Sagar, a small villager and oasis. A small complex of Jain temples of beautifully carved sandstone graces the village. Kehta picked us up in a jeep and drove us to Lodruva, the abandoned ruins of the former ancient capital of the region.
For dinner we chose a rooftop restaurant with a good view of the golden walls of Jaisalmer fortress. At sunset we were treated to the golden illumination of the fort – just like all the tourist brochures. Magical!

Jaipur
Tues June 15 We entered the gates of old Jaipur, “the Pink City.” Burnt umber would be a better description of the deep orange/rust painted buildings here although a few are pinkish. The streets are wider than we’ve seen, but that just seems to allow more people and things to crowd into them. The famous Hawa Mahal (the Palace of Winds) spurts up in the middle of one of these grand avenues. We continued on to the city palace. The complex contains a series of courtyards, gardens, and majestic buildings. Built by Jai Singh, it is a combination of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture. In a covered patio sit 2 gigantic silver vessels in which the Maharaja would transport drinking water on his visits outside India. As a devout Hindu he could not drink unsacred water. We toured the various collections and armory before heading out to the observatory, or Jantar Mantar, built by Jai Singh in 1728. His passion for astronomy was famous and this was the largest of the five observatories he built. It is a curious but very impressive collection of modern looking structures, each with a specific astronomical purpose: measuring the stars attitudes, etc. The view from the top of the tallest was excellent – back across the palace complex to Hawa Mahal and out to the surrounding hills, dotted with forts.

Wed June 16 Today we explored the surrounding area. Our first stop was Amber Palace. Like the other tourists we opted to ride an elephant up the long ramp to the palace. Reid seemed especially to enjoy the ride. The fortress/palace of Amber was begun in 1592 by Raja Man Singh, commander of Akbar’s armies. Its pretty impressive, overlooking a lake below and featuring glittering mirrored ceilings and inlaid panals in the Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) and a labyrinth of old corridors and stairways to explore. A 15 minute walk up the hill leads to Jargarh Fort. There are expansive though bleak ramparts and the view is spectacular. Next on the fort circuit was Naharagarh – the Tiger Fort with another impressive view. We left this perch after a snack to wind back kown to the Jal Mahal, a neglected lake palace we’d seen on the way out. From a distance it has a marvelous forgotten aura, standing crumbling away on the now dried up lakebed, small trees sprouting from its rooftop. Upon closer inspection the spell fades and the perspective is lost. A stop at the royal cenotaphs at Gaitor rounded out our sightseeing day. We had another splurge dinner at the elegant Rambagh Palace Hotel. A beer in the Polo Bar made us feel like visiting British nobility in the 19th century.

Agra
Thurs June 17 Agra Fort was the first stop today. The fort’s massiveness immediately impressed. The massive 2.5 km long, 20meter thick walls surround several interesting buildings. Built by Akbar in 1565, it was his grandson Shah Jehan who had turned it into a pleasure palace. Wandering about the many audience halls and chambers was fun even after many other similar experiences. From the octagonal throne terrace you have a wonderful view across the Yamuna River to the Taj Mahal. When Shah Jehan was imprisoned here by his son, he was able to gaze across to the tomb of his beloved Mumtaz Mahal. We also peaked into the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) and Jehangir’s Palace with its more Hindu/Persian influenced architecture.
On to India’s most recognizable sight, the Taj Mahal. It has been described as the most extravagant monument ever built for love and the most beautifully proportioned building in the world. The Taj enclave is surrounded at a great distance by tall walls. One enters through a massive gate (and metal detector) and there it is, gleaming in golden in the sunset. It is stunning from a distance, reflected in a long, narrow pool before it. Four large but sleek minarets rise from each of the corners of the square platform it rests upon. It is breathtaking. Closer inspection reveals inlaid stones in beautiful, floral patterns known as pietra dura. The acoustics of the tomb chamber are superb as many visitors tested it out. We sat outside as the sun went behind clouds then popped out just before going down. I kept looking back as we left wondering if it was my last chance to gaze upon such majestic elegance.
Fri June 18 After breakfast we grabbed a bus to Fatehpur Sikri. Built by Akbar, it was the capital of the Mughal empire for 16 years before being suddenly abandoned due to a lack of a water supply. It stands today deserted yet perfectly preserved, an example of a Mughal city at the height of the empires’ splendor.

Balinese Dance (part II)

2009-11-10T15:24:00.001-08:00

Balinese dance-drama is the signature cultural experience of most visitors to this island paradise. Last month we wrote about the history, tradition, significance, and structure of this engaging art form. This month we want to elaborate on the dances themselves. There are at least a dozen different performance travelers can attend. However, most visitors attend the 4 or 5 most commonly performed dances. Those include the Ramayana, Kecak, Barong, Legong, and Baris dances.
Most Balinese dance-drama has its origins in the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The Ramayana ballet is a regular offering. In the Ramayana the good Prince Rama loses his betrothed, Princess Sita to the evil Ravana, King of Lanka. Ravana lures Rama away with a golden deer and then carries Sita away. Hanuman the good monkey king joins with Rama in his quest to rescue Sita. Hanuman tells Sita that Rama is trying to rescue her and gives her Rama’s ring as a token. He then assists Rama in catching up to Ravana. When Rama arrives he is met by Ravana’s son Megananda, who shoots an arrow that turns into a snake which binds Rama. But Rama calls on the magical bird Garuda who helps him escape. Hanuman’s army of monkeys joins Rama in a great battle where Ravana is defeated. Good triumphs over evil and Rama returns home with Sita.
Best known to tourists, the Kecak (Monkey) dance is performed all over the island and is quite a spectacle. A choir of dozens to hundreds of men provide rhythmic, percussive, a cappella, accompaniment to the drama. Lit only by torches, they sit in large concentric circles and the drama takes place in the center. The rhythmic “chak-a-chak-a-chak” chanting literally sounds like a troop of monkeys – hence the name. The men sit cross-legged and while they chant they throw up their arms or sway and bend from the waist, all in rhythm. The Kecak had its roots in the sanghyang trance ceremony for exorcisms. It takes its story from the Ramayana when Hanuman leads his armies against the evil Ravana. Kecak is truly living theater, a blending of motion, voice, gesture, and narrative.
The Barong (sometimes called the Lion dance) is another good vs. evil drama. It is among the most sacred and important of dances and features spectacular costumes. Evil and good are represented by Rangda and Barong, though in typical Balinese mysticism, neither is wholly good or bad. Rangda is a witch, queen of the underworld. Her appearance is truly terrifying with a necklace of human entrails, large breasts, claws and tusks, and murderous eyes and laugh. Barong is Rangda’s counterpart and enemy – not really a lion, rather parts of many, mythical beasts. He is huge and splendid, is played by 2 men, and has a long beard invested with great power. The masks of both characters are invested with sacred magic and are treated with respect and reverence. They are specially wrapped (a magic shield) and stored in temples between performances.
Barong usually appears first doing kind deeds and enjoying acclaim from villagers. Rangda appears like a fury and they rush at each other and battle mightily. Eventually Rangda succeeds in stuffing her weapon (anteng – strip of white cloth) into Barang’s mouth. She shouts and celebrates but the villagers join in the attack. Barong recovers and rejoins the fight. Rangda waves her anteng above her foes sending them into madness – turning weapons upon themselves. But the attacks are not harmful because Barong has protected them with his magic. Soon all retire from the scene. Rangda retreats but the fight is inconclusive. Everyone knows the drama will be reenacted over and over just as the struggle between good and evil continues in everyone.
A fourth dance, Legong is the archetype of delicate expression. The divine dance of heavenly nymphs, it is elegant, refined, and very restrained. There are three dancers, all girls in rich costume, heavy makeup, and headdresses. The story is based on a Hindu epic poem. The Princess Rangkesari is kidnapped by the arrogant King Lasem. Rangkesari spurns Lasem’s advances so he threatens to kill her father. Rangkesari still refuses and Lasem becomes furious. A battle ensues, during which a blackbird flies in front of Lasem (a bad omen) and he is killed. The three dancers enact all the characters and the story in abstract pantomime, with stylized actions and gestures.
The Baris dance is a fighting dance using spears. It is the opposite of Lagong, powerful and masculine. The performers never wound but fight fiercely for the beauty of combat. Tumultuous but also harmonious, the Baris is a devotional dance that reenacts the traditional offering of weapons to the gods to invest them with power. A dozen warriors, heads covered with flowers and bearing magic scarves and feather-tipped spears, dance in two opposing lines. They grimace and strike heroic poses until the music becomes animated. They then enact a battle. The dancers use their facial expressions to depict their passions: admiration, wonder, surprise, rage, pleasure, and even tenderness. The music builds and the dancers become more tense. They call out, make threatening gestures, draw their krises (ceremonial daggers) and approach each other. They stop before clashing and then engage in a stylized, ballet-like duel. Eventually one side is routed and the dance ends.
The dances discussed above are the most common in tourist venues. But there are many others. They include the Barong Landung (giant puppet dance), the Oleg Tambulilingan (the bumblebee dance), Topang (mask dance), Pendat, and Cupak. Additionally, there are several trance dances, though most of those are performed on ceremonial occasions and not for tourists. The most famous are the Calonarang and Sanghyang Dedari. All are worthwhile and worth seeking out and a meaningful part of a visit to Bali.

Balinese Dance-Drama

2009-11-10T15:20:00.000-08:00

Bali has tremendous, almost magnetic aesthetic appeal for western visitors. Among the many art forms, Balinese dance is the most compelling. Perhaps it is better called dance/drama as it is an art that cannot be separated from theater (there is no Balinese word for theater).
Indigenous dance-drama is exotic, energetic, and visually sumptuous but its uniqueness lies in its accessibility. Balinese dance appeals to western aesthetic sensibilities and is therefore imminently engaging. While other Asian art forms are visually appealing, the observer quickly losses interest as the language barrier prevents much understanding. The Balinese version communicates in mime, gesture, and physically expressed emotion. The stories are easy to follow and enjoy in their entirety. Additionally, part of the appeal is its authenticity. Dance is not preserved strictly for tourist consumption but is closely connected with religion and the authentic rhythms of life on the island. Their traditions are relevant and give meaning to life. As Margaret Mead observed, “The survival of the primitive in a developed society, a characteristic of everything Balinese, shows itself in the dancing as well as in the general mode of life.” Another observer writes, “Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an almost organic need for the spiritual and physical life of the community.”
The Balinese attribute a divine origin to music and dance. It is believed that Indra, Lord of Heaven, invented dance when he created the dedari (nymphs of heaven) to dance for the pleasure of the gods. Dance-drama evolved from sacred rituals (still performed at religious events). Dance movements are bound by ancient, elaborate design, recorded on lontars (oldest written records). There is a powerful connection between life and art. There are few professional dancers on Bali. Those who perform in tourist shows are the same who dance for religious festivals.
Balinese dance has developed to a standard of technique that makes it a difficult undertaking, requiring years of special training. Strict rules are followed leaving no room for improvisation or individual style. The excellence of a performer depends on personality, emotional intensity, and expressiveness of features - not skill. Female dancers always keep their feet on the ground, expressing themselves through a vocabulary of controlled movements of arms, wrists, fingers, neck, and eyes. Male dancers are more energetic, engaging in jumping, whirling, and wild waving of limbs.
The performances that travelers enjoy are often based on Hindu classics: Ramayana or Mahabharata. To watch Balinese dance is to enter a world of religious lore and epic poetry. It is a world of colors, beauty, and fascination: an unexplored territory of visual arts for the westerner. Classic performances travelers are likely to enjoy include the Ramayana (Hindu epic tale); Legong (most refined, elegant dance; the ultimate in feminine expression); Kecak (best known; percussive male chorus accompaniment to good vs. evil story); Barong (Lion Dance – good vs. evil fight between Rangda the witch queen and mythical beast Barong); and Baris (the warrior’s dance, celebrates the beauty of combat). On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali tour we’ll be enjoying performances of the Kecak and Barong dances. Many other dances are performed and all are worthwhile. A visit to Bali is incomplete without a few evenings of dance-drama and for most, it is the signature experience.

Bangkok 101

2009-10-20T10:48:00.000-07:00

Bangkok Thailand – the name alone evokes images of a mysterious oriental cityscape of busy streets, sidewalk vendors, bustling markets, exotic entertainments, and striking Buddhist architecture. As the capital of modern Thailand and the center of its burgeoning economy Bangkok is a multifaceted city filled with myriad delights and destinations. Known as the “Venice of the East” because of its many canals and water-bourn culture (the word Bangkok means “water-flower village”), Thais themselves refer to the city as Krung Thep, City of Angels.
Bangkok’s history is relatively brief. Following the fall of Ayuthaya (Siam’s historic capital and a World Heritage site - an easy daytrip from Bangkok) to the Burmese in the late 18th century, Siamese society was fractured and prostrate. A hero emerged, Taksin, who rallied and united the Siamese people and established a new capital at Thonburi on the Chao Phraya River. The next king, Chao Phraya Chakri (Rama I, founder of the current dynasty) moved the capital across the river and founded Bangkok in 1782. Bangkok has been Siam/Thailand’s capital and primary city ever since. Rama undertook an ambitious building program including the Grand Palace complex and Wat Phra Kaew in an attempt to recapture the lost glory of Ayuthaya. Other important Wats and palaces followed in successive decades. From a western perspective, Bangkok burst into the public consciousness during the Vietnam War as American GIs flocked here on leave. The Southeast Asian economic boom of the 1980s and ‘90s fueled the explosive expansion of Bangkok into the teeming metropolis of 10 million it is today.
Bangkok’s top sights are clearly the Grand Palace complex and Wat Pho. The highlight of a Grand Palace visit is Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha. The complex is a jaw-dropping collection of spectacular buildings, monuments, and statues. The entrance is guarded by two fantastic yaksha, or mythical giants. The compound walls are lined with beautifully restored murals of the Ramakian (Thai version of the Ramayana). The grounds are punctuated by multiple stupas, with their dramatically and diversely decorated prangs (spires). Many stupas are ringed by elaborate mythical warriors. The bots (temples buildings) are decorated by colored tiles and tiny mirrors – quite dazzling. Brightly gilded mythical statues add to the fantastical, mystical ambiance.
Next door Wat Pho is Bangkok’s oldest temple. Pho is another complex of beautiful bots and stupas (more than 100) and home to Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha. The striking, 150 foot long, gilded gold statue barely fits in its bot. The soles of the feet are particularly interesting, displaying 108 auspicious laksana (characteristics of the Buddha) in mother of pearl. Thailand’s largest collection of Buddha images (almost 400) is also housed here. Lastly, Wat Pho is the national center for traditional Thai medicine, including Thai massage. There is no better place in the country for this obligatory experience. For about $10, one can experience 90 minutes of therapeutic, relaxing heaven.
Bangkok’s third signature sight is Wat Arun – the Temple of the Dawn. Its 266 foot Khmer-style prang dominates the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. Wat Arun was founded by Taksin but the tower itself was built by Ramas II and III in the early 19th century. One of Arun’s unique and pleasing features is its creative design and decoration. The materials used are a lesson in early Asian recycling. The entire stupa is decorated with broken Chinese porcelain. Eighteenth century Chinese trading ships used tons of broken porcelain as ballast, providing inexpensive, readily available materials.
After the Big Three, Bangkok boasts dozens of additional, interesting wats and sights. Among them is Wat Saket. Located atop an artificial hill, together they are known as the Golden Mount. Panoramic views of the city, Buddhist prayer wheels and bells, and the golden wat itself reward those who brave the winding hike up the hill. Wat Benchamabophit is a stirring example of modern Thai architecture and is made of Carrara marble. Wat Traimit in Chinatown contains the impressive 10-foot, 5+ ton solid gold Buddha. Dusit Palace Park contains several worthwhile sights. A green oasis in the concrete metropolis, Dusit displays photogenic gardens, a pleasant zoo, Vimanmek Teak Mansion, Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, the Royal Elephant Museum, and an Ancient Cloth Museum. Nearby is Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Bangkok boasts several museums as well, including the National Musuem (religious sculpture) and the Royal Barge Museum. Monuments worth a look are the Art Deco-style Democracy Monument, the Rama V Memorial (King Chulalongkorn of “The King and I” fame), and the Erawan Shrine with its attendant musicians and dancers. The Jim Thompson House rounds out a Bangkok visit nicely. American Jim Thompson was essentially the father of the Thai silk industry. An interesting character, Thompson appreciated Thai art and culture and his home is a great example of residential architecture and Thai art.
No discussion of Thailand’s capital is complete with mentioning its tremendous shopping opportunities. First on any Bangkok shopping list should be clothing and textiles. Inexpensive clothing, both local fashions and designer knock-offs are ubiquitous. Thai silk is famous the world over and Bangkok tailors are a real bargain. Handicrafts are equally plentiful and varied. Teak carvings, masks, ceramics, baskets, wall hangings, pottery, handbags, table linens, and even stuffed animals are just the beginning. Gems and jewelry are also a great value. The shopping experience itself can be a recreational endeavor here. Markets abound. The most famous are the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, Chatuchak Weekend Market, Sampeng Lane, Nakhon Kasem (electronics), and Phahurat (textiles). Additionally, almost every neighborhood boasts a food market and there are several flower and/or plant markets. Although it has become primarily a tourist attraction, the Damnoen Saduak floating market is a famous daytrip.
Bangkok is one of Asia’s great entertainment capitals. As the center of the country’s music industry, the city offers many live music venues, both traditional and western. For those interested, dance clubs and movie theaters are everywhere. For traditional performing arts Chalermkung Royal Theater offers performances of khohn (masked dance-drama). Natayasala presents the ancient art of Thai puppetry. Classical Thai dance can be enjoyed at the National Theater, the Thailand Cultural Center, and Dusit Palace Park. Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing, is an exciting mix of boxing, ultimate fighting, and martial arts (but much of the show is in the stands). While there are venues all over the city the best boxers fight at Lumphini and Ratchadamnoen Stadiums.
In addition to the sights everyone wants to see, we at Imprint Tours are always on the lookout for off-the-beaten-track, out-of-the-way places to get a taste of real cultural life. Bangkok offers several options for the savvy traveler as well as some very unusual activities.
Our favorite way to escape the crush of urban Bangkok is to take a klong (canal) tour of the Thonburi district. Thonburi retains the feel of village Thailand despite being surrounded by ultra-urban Bangkok. Once you leave the river in your longtail boat you enter a different world – one of real, workaday Thai life. The visitor experiences the true waterborne nature of Bangkok life. One sees children playing, swimming, and bathing; people fishing, doing laundry, cooking and/or eating a meal – all on the water. Beautiful teak mansions sit side by side with ramshackle hovels. Temple compounds and schools provide public areas for community gathering. Extremely poor people smile and wave with no apparent envy of our western affluence. On our Tantalizing Thailand tour we organize a dusk klong tour, a great time for quiet people watching and photographing. Another way to get even deeper into “village Bangkok” is on a bicycle. Several tour operators feature half-day cycling trips to the Bang Bua Thong or Bang Kra Jao neighborhoods where visitors are exposed to real Thai village life.
Another urban excursion that exposes travelers to rural life is Ko Kred. This artificial island is like a time capsule. With no roads, the island is traversed only by walkways. The island is famous for its fruit and its terracotta pottery. The island is mostly populated by ethnic Mon villagers. Traditional Mon life is on display with their traditional wooden stilt houses interspersed among the orchards. Some pleasant riverside wats are worth a look, especially Wat Paramaiyikawat (or Wat Poramai).
Lastly, Bangkok is famous for its night life. Much of it is seedy and driven by the sex industry. But even straight-laced visitors can get a “sanitized” glimpse of late-night Bangkok at the Kathoey cabarets. Several venues are tourist friendly and one can see choreographed stage shows of Broadway hits and lip-synched hits performed by kathoeys transvestite “lady boy”) in lavish, sequined costumes. Alternative Bangkok also includes the Forensic Medicine Museum with its preserved cadavers, body parts, and clothing from famous Thai murders. There is also a Museum of Counterfeit Goods, a Corrections Museum, and a snake farm.
Whatever one’s tastes or interests Bangkok offers much to engage the traveler. Access is easy via a brand new international airport and good, inexpensive public transportation makes getting around a breeze. And like all of Southeast Asia, compared to western destination cities, Bangkok continues to be a tremendous travel value.

Elephants in Thailand

2009-10-19T12:04:00.000-07:00

Whether traveling independently or on a tour, an elephant encounter is almost certainly a part of a trip to Thailand. Modern Thais recognize our western fascination with the massive pachyderms and camps, shows, and trekking have proliferated with the advance of tourism. But the historical role of elephants in Thai society has been much more than entertainment for tourists. Elephants have long been an important element of Thai spiritual, cultural, and economic life.
As a significant presence in both Hindu and Buddhist mythology elephants hold a place of profound spiritual significance. The Hindu deity Ganesh, with his elephant’s head, is the god of knowledge and remover of obstacles and is depicted on temples throughout the country. Another Hindu deity, Indra is often shown with his three-headed elephant mount Erawan. In Buddhist lore the future Buddha’s mother was only able to conceive after dreaming of a white elephant. The legend is the source of the elephant’s sacred/royal status in Thailand. Throughout Thai history rare white elephants were considered sacred and, by law, belonged only to the king. The 13th century King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai furthered the special status by adopting the white elephant as a symbol of greatness and divinity. The current Thai king owns twelve.
Official white elephant status is conferred only after passing a battery of rigorous physical and behavioral tests. A successful candidate is presented to the king in an elaborate ceremony which includes a parade and anointing with holy water. Our expression “white elephant” probably has its origins in the legend that Thai kings once presented enemies with actual white elephants. Elephants were and are expensive to maintain. Since white elephants were sacred they could not be used for labor, thus making an undue burden for those having received them.
Beyond their symbolic role Thai elephants have long provided a practical benefit. Elephants were valuable resources for warfare, providing formidable physical and psychological advantages. Nineteenth century king Rama IV (of “The King and I” fame) really did offer Abraham Lincoln elephants to use in the Civil War. Elephants have also been tremendous beasts of burden, helping to move massive stones, clear forests, and carry timber. Domesticated elephants are assigned their own mahout (trainer, keeper, and driver). Training begins at age 4 and progresses very gradually, slowly building trust, over a dozen years. In that time the elephant learns about 40 commands. At age 16 the elephant is ready to labor for the next 35 to 45 years.
Recent events have made the plight of Thailand’s elephants precarious. Ironically, the timber industry has proved to be a negative factor. Mechanized logging has rapidly destroyed elephant habitat and overuse has led to a commercial logging ban in 1989. The wild elephant population has been reduced to under 2000 while the domestic population, around 3000 (from a total population of 15,000 in 1984), has been made largely redundant. Unemployment has forced many mahouts to turn their animals loose. The freed beasts become nuisances and are frequently hunted and killed. Ecotourism appears to be one of the only sustainable sources of elephant employment remaining in Thailand.
As part of our commitment to responsible travel, Imprint Tours’ Tantalizing Thailand visits the Thai Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang. Originally established as Thailand’s first elephant training center, the ECC has emphasized elephant conservation since opening their current center in 1992. Entrance proceeds help finance the elephant hospital which cares for sick, abused, and abandoned elephants. We arrive to see the elephants bathing in the river, then enjoy the elephant show (transporting logs, demonstrating skills, painting, and even making music), and enjoy a jungle ride. The ECC also offers a unique home-stay program where participants spend up to three days learning to be temporary mahouts. www.changthai.com

Balinese Cremations

2009-10-19T12:03:00.000-07:00

The accessibility of Bali’s traditional culture sets it apart as a travel destination. Visitors are not only welcomed but encouraged to attend temple festivals. Balinese dance-drama, perhaps the island’s most famous attribute, remains an authentic part of Balinese religious and social life yet is still performed with enthusiasm for tourists. Of all the cultural events available to travelers the greatest spectacle is a cremation. Although it may seem strange to westerners, Balinese cremations are very celebratory and public occasions. Think more wake than funeral and prepare to be engaged by the “more the merrier” attitude of the local participants.
A cremation day is characterized more by fun and laughter than mourning – they are liberating the soul of the departed, freeing them to reincarnate. According to Bali’s unique form of Hinduism, the body is only a shell; the vessel of the soul. After death the soul lingers near the body until being liberated by fire. Therefore the ceremony is a big send off. The Balinese look forward to it, often make provision for it during life, and an ostentatious event gains prestige for the family. Expenses are often enormous with priest’s fees, costly structures, offerings, and food and entertainment provided for guests. Often a family of limited means must wait, sometimes for years, to save enough money.
Upon death, elaborate religious and purification rites are observed, lasting several days. The body is then taken to a cemetery and buried. Once the family has marshaled enough resources a priest determines an auspicious day for the cremation and the body is exhumed. An effigy is made to contain the soul and it is cared for until the cremation. On the eve of cremation the effigy is presented to a priest for final blessing.
The next day the body is placed in an elaborately designed and decorated tower for transport. As many as 75 men are required to carry it. When all the preparations are ready and guests have been feasted, a grand procession starts toward the cremation grounds. Attended by music, dancers, revelers, and women carrying effigies, the tower is turned, spun, and whirled to confuse the spirit and prevent it from reentering the body. Upon arrival at the grounds the body is brought down a ramp from the tower and placed in an animal-shaped sarcophagus which in turn is placed on a pyre under a pavilion. Family come forward to honor the deceased, a priest recites prayers, holy water is poured over the sarcophagus, offerings and tributes are added to the pyre, the soul effigy is added, and after a final blessing all is set ablaze. Throughout the entire affair there is no hysteria and, by western standards, little reverence. Since the body is merely a vessel the ceremony is attended by much joking, laughing, and even talking to the corpse. Much later, when all is consumed, the ashes are placed in an urn, a new procession is formed, and the family and attendees march to the sea. There the ashes are dumped and the family bathes in the water for ritual cleansing.
As suggested above, perhaps the most remarkable feature of a Balinese cremation and Balinese culture in general is the way travelers are encouraged to participate. All western sensibilities of voyeurism must be suspended. There is no feeling of intrusion. While one cannot plan long range for a cremation, on Imprint’s Beautiful Bali tour we have deliberately structured our itinerary to allow maximum flexibility for attending a cremation as an included tour activity. A few weeks before the tour we will consult the Balinese calendar. It is very likely that at least one cremation will take place during the fortnight of the tour. With the exception of days 3-5 (when we fly to Jogjakarta on neighboring Java), we will be able to accommodate a cremation excursion on any day of the tour.*

*Provided the cremation is within reasonable driving distance.

Undiscovered Amed (from July 2009 Newsletter)

2009-07-30T18:37:00.002-07:00

At Imprint Tours we pride ourselves in finding destinations that are away from the typical commercial tour itinerary. One such location is Amed, on Bali’s east coast. The area has avoided over-development and this collection of sea-side villages is one of Bali’s unspoiled jewels. Amed, named for one of its 10 villages, is an 8-mile stretch of lovely bays, black-sand pebble beaches, and stunning views. Although development is happening, Amed remains, for the present, a place of quiet refuge. Even the most developed of the villages remains low-key. And because it remains just off the tourist radar it is a great value destination.
Activities in Amed naturally center on the water. Some of Bali’s best diving and snorkeling are found along the reef just a few yards out from shore. The water is crystal clear and the reef accommodates multiple species of coral, sponges, and a high density of tropical fish. The current is gentle and safe and access is extremely easy from shore. For serious divers Gili Selang, the eastern-most tip of the island and two accessible shipwrecks provide more challenging dives. Certification courses are available and two-dive trips with all equipment are around $60. Tulamben, Bali’s most popular dive site due to the 400-foot shipwreck Liberty, is also accessible. While Amed lacks the golden sand beaches of the south its pebble beaches are nonetheless picturesque, lined with colorful outrigger fishing boats.
Apart from water-oriented activities, Amed is mostly for relaxing. Most mid-range hotels boast a swimming pool and spa. Walks along the beach are lovely. Sunrise and sunset are dynamic and the views in every direction are memorable. In general, the restaurants serve food of a very high standard. There is live music or Balinese dance available 4-5 nights per week. One can observe the processing of sea salt, the traditional industry of the region. The process is quite interesting and Amed salt has a reputation for excellent flavor. Lastly, the scenic drive south of Amed to Ujung is one of the most beautiful and remote on Bali. Dramatic coastal vistas and beach-ringed coves are revealed by every turn in the windy road. Additionally, one gets a glimpse of real Balinese village life, untouched by tourism. One sees villagers involved in carving boats, weaving cotton fabrics, or cultivating fruit, corn, or peanuts.
Ultimately, Amed is not a place to DO, but rather a place to BE. When one arrives the first reaction might be to wonder what you’ll find to do after the first day. But as the somnambulant pulse of the area seeps into your own biorhythms you’ll begin to enjoy genuine relaxation. The outside world seems to matter less and less and a planned 2-day visit stretches to 3, 4, 5, . . . .

On Imprint Tours’ Beautiful Bali Tour, we spend 3 nights and two full days in Amed. One day is set aside for pure relaxation – no tour activities scheduled. The second day we’ve hired the sailing yacht Condor for the day. We’ll spend the day on the water; sailing, snorkeling, swimming, picnicking and enjoying the entire length of the Amed coast. Our tour hotel, Pura Wisata, boasts 2 sea-view swimming pools, in-house diving operators, and a relaxing spa. On our arrival day we enjoy a sea-side/pool-side lunch and observe a class of Balinese children learning traditional dance just outside of Ujung before driving to Amed via the dramatic coast road described above. Prepare to unwind.

Khao Sok NP (from July 2009 newsletter)

2009-07-30T18:37:00.001-07:00

Extraordinary, stunning Khao Sok National Park is composed of 400+ square miles of rugged limestone mountains and lush tropical rainforest. One of Thiailand’s hidden treasures; its relative remoteness helps insure its status as an off-the-beaten-track, undiscovered treat. The centerpiece is vast Chiaw Lan Lake. Over 100 miles long, it was created by the Ratchaprapha dam in 1982. Often called Thailand’s Guilin for its karst landscape, it is characterized by limestone outcroppings, similar to those in more famous Phang-Nga bay. However, these reach a height of over 3000 feet, more than triple the size of the Phang-Nga formations. The dramatically vertical peaks, draped with verdant jungle vegetation provide the visual backdrop for every breathtaking vista as well as create over 100 islands in the lake. Many waterfalls splash over limestone cliffs, adding to the visual splendor. One guidebook describes it as stepping into a “George of the Jungle” movie.
The park offers several engaging activities. Hiking is the most popular with trails leading to Sip-Et Chan, Than Sawan, and Than Kloy waterfalls (3-6 miles). Several lake-side caves can also be reached on foot or by boat. Possible wildlife spotting includes Malayan and Asiatic black bears, leopards, serow, banteng, civets, loris, wild boar, guar, deer, and even wild elephants and the occasional tiger. One is almost sure to see langurs, gibbons, hornbills, and flying lizards. KS is also home to an additional 150+ species of birds. Fauna includes lianas, bamboo, ferns, rattan (including giant rattan), and the famous Rafflesia kerrii (or wild lotus), the world’s second largest flower. The “blooms” can reach a staggering 32 inches in diameter. Boats can be hired for exploring the coves and caves along Chiaw Lan’s shores. Bikes and motorbikes can be rented for those wishing to explore further afield. A variety of guided tours and treks are available and elephant trekking has a good reputation here.
Khao Sok is remote enough to be off the usual tourist track. Small roads and rustic accommodations keep commercial tour companies away and less than convenient public transportation keeps the flow of independent travelers light. Even so, there is a visitor center with an exhibition of KS highlights and rudimentary trail maps for hikers. Most hiking trails originate here. There is also a tourist village with several bungalow operators, mini-markets, email centers, laundry, message center, and bike/motorbike rentals. The best time to visit is during the dry season, late December to May.
The amazing natural wonders of southern Thailand should be on everyone’s Southeast Asian list of can’t miss sights. If you’d like to enjoy them without the tourist crush of Phang Nga bay or the parks of the northern peninsula, Khao Sok is perfect for you.

Imprint Tours is one of the only tour companies that takes its hardy tour members to Khao Sok. We organize a jungle trek with a local nature interpreter, take a bamboo raft excursion, visit a lake-side cave, and do a sunset cruise on the lake. But the highlight by far is staying at a floating lodge in the middle of the lake. Step off your bamboo porch directly into the refreshing water of the lake, paddle around in the free kayaks, or just relax on a Thai ax pillow in front of your bamboo bungalow. However, the real magic begins after nightfall when the silence becomes absolute except for the occasional calls of the living jungle and complete darkness reveals the milky way in all its glory. The towering karst formations bathed only in starlight are a sight never to be forgotten. Midnight swim anyone?

Value Part II

2009-07-30T18:36:00.001-07:00

Although I just wrote about the tremendous value of Southeast Asian travel in May, having just returned from 10 weeks of tours in Europe I feel compelled to sing the praises of inexpensive Bali and Thailand once again. I love Europe as a destination and feel ever so lucky that I have the opportunity to work there with Rick Steves. But I must admit I was rather horrified at the prices this spring. A cup of coffee was regularly $3.50 to $4 (with current exchange rates). Italy continues to be an increasingly spendy destination with simple plates of pasta or pizzas now running $10 and up (at least the coffee is still excellent and, relatively speaking, cheap) and once inexpensive house wines creeping up into the $15 per liter range. Switzerland, always Europe’s most expensive country, has once again lurched ahead of its neighbors after the price gap had steadily shrunk over the last decade. And France, formerly the last refuge of great, inexpensive food, has also closed the price gap. Even wine by the glass, once a staple of French budget travel, is heading toward the $7 and up range. Dining is not the only place the traveler feels the “Euro squeeze.” A single-ride ticket on Venice’s vaporettos (water buses) is now almost $10 and Paris’ wonderful metro system had a recent price hike, approaching $2 for a single journey. Sights and museums are not exempt. Today’s traveler should expect to pay $12 and up for sights that only a few years ago cost $5-7.
It is not my intention to bash Europe – it remains a magical destination and a place of profound connections for all westerners. But in terms of shear value, it simply pales beside Southeast Asia (SEA). The value of the American dollar has fallen against all foreign currencies in the last few months. But while it has lost 9% against the Euro it has lost only 4-5% against SEAsian currencies (last 120 days: source: Oanda.com), reflecting a long-term trend. Inflation has hit SEA as well but travel commodities were such a tremendous bargain that they remain tantalizingly low for Americans. Boutique hotels for under $50, wonderful meals for $10-12, street food for a couple of bucks, and public transportation for pennies on the dollar compared to western destinations. While in Europe this spring I developed a taste for the relatively new, prepackaged, refrigerated coffee drinks (think Frappaccino). They cost about $2.25 in grocery stores and $4 at highway reststops. The SEA version, while smaller (probably 60%) cost about 35-45 cents. With inflation and the weakened dollar, one might expect to pay 50 cents today.
More than anything else, I simply love the freedom provided by the lower prices of all travel commodities in SEA. As a life-long penny-pincher, I appreciate not having to carefully weigh every spending decision. Will this sight be worth the entrance cost? Can I afford to splurge on the most expensive menu item in a restaurant? Should we picnic today to preserve our budget? I’d love a second beer but they cost almost $10 OR we have to find a bar with happy hour prices so our beer will only cost $5-6 (Paris, Italy). While traveling in Thailand or Bali, the cost of things is mercifully exempt from all such considerations. All this value for countries that are welcoming to visitors, extremely safe, have well-developed tourism infrastructures, and are exotic, fascinating cultural destinations.

Enchanting Bali (from June 2009 Newlsetter)

2009-07-30T18:34:00.000-07:00

The mere mention of the name Bali conjures up visions of a mystical island paradise in the western mind. From Rogers and Hamerstein’s musical “South Pacific” (dreamy Bali Ha’i) to Elizabeth Gilbert‘s “Eat, Pray, Love” the island holds a special place in western pop culture. Bali has been called the “enchanted isle”, “the last paradise”, and “the morning of the world.” It is indeed a beautiful tropical island bursting with bright colors, inspiring vistas, and exotic sounds and smells, inhabited by an artistic, sensual people with a storied history. But that describes many Pacific island nations. What is it about this tiny (5620 square miles) island that engages us so?
One answer is that Bali offers an experiential package that is unrivaled in the East. For generations travelers have visited South Pacific islands for beautiful swaying palms and golden sand beaches, India for its Eastern mystery, and more recently, China for its ancient culture. But only Bali offers all of these attractions in a single destination. It has been said that Asia and the Pacific meet in Bali.
Some of the imagery mentioned above can be traced in the island’s history. The first western visitors were shipwrecked Dutch sailors in the late 16th century. Upon their return to the Netherlands, the captain’s logs were published, creating a sensation in Europe. Images of lovely naked natives in a beautiful tropical setting engaged and titillated the Dutch public and the notion of Bali as a tropical paradise was born. That image was fortified in the last century by numerous European expatriates who have made Bali home. Many wrote memoirs or histories of Bali, extolling its many virtues. In the 1930s the Dutch began to promote Bali as a tourist destination, adding to the mystique. Backpackers created a new kind of tourism in the ‘70s and middle class tourism discovered Bali shortly thereafter.
So it is not hard to trace the origins of the Balinese image. But additionally, we are happy to report that the contemporary experience of the island stacks up beautifully to the hype. A visit to Bali can only be described as enchanting. It is captivating in its small and personal connections. Bali is not a sight-driven destination. Travelers do not find grand buildings and soaring ancient monuments. Instead, it is a destination of experience which involves an intimate connection to Balinese life. Whether visiting a temple or village, enjoying a performance, or attending a temple festival visitors are treated as honored guests. One is consistently welcomed with a smile and slight bow of the head whether entering a restaurant, stopping to observe a craftsman at work, or entering a temple compound. One never feels like an intruder in any way.
It is the living, active culture of Bali that calls to western visitors. One appealing element of Balinese life is the ever-present Gamalan music. Whether live at a performance or recorded in restaurants and hotels the lilting strains transport the westerner to another realm. This primarily percussive music is at once melodic, ethereal, exciting, and often haunting as it adds a layer to the mystical feeling of the visitor experience. Perhaps the most engaging, memorable aspect of Balinese culture is the experience of traditional dance-drama. Performances, available everywhere, have evolved from religious rituals and retain their spiritual significance even when performed for tourists. The elaborate costumes and makeup, stylized movements and symbolic gestures, and pulsing Gamalan accompaniment transport the viewer to the realm of mystic story-telling. Balinese religion is also accessible. Temple architecture is not monumental but it is beautiful and boasts a wide variety of intricate decoration. Visitors are always welcome at temple festivals and even at cremation ceremonies.
A final element of Balinese allure is the friendliness of its people. It is hard to overstate this honest pleasure. One is greeted everywhere by sincere smiles and welcoming gestures. The hospitality feels authentic because it flows from genuine contentment. The Balinese people seem to be very happy with their island paradise. As they go about their lives, conducting business, making offerings, attending ceremonies, creating music or dance, or cultivating rice they do so with open hearts. Even the most menial tasks are done with lots of spirited conversation and laughter. At every encounter visitors are honored, welcomed, and engaged. One can hardly avoid being drawn into the contentment – and why would we want to?

Value, Value, Value (from May 2009 Newletter)

2009-07-30T18:32:00.000-07:00

Southeast Asia is one of the globe’s best travel values. In real estate the accepted dictum is: “Location, Location, Location.” For Southeast Asian travel the mantra is: “Value, Value, Value.” The three big-ticket items in any travel budget - transportation, accommodations, and food - are very inexpensive. A 45-minute taxi ride is $10-12. Clean, well located, comfortable, air-conditioned accommodations are readily available for under $40 (half that if you forego the air-conditioning). An excellent restaurant dinner with drinks can easily be had for $10 and street vendors can provide a delicious meal for $1. Even international airfares, previously a deterrent, are now comparable to European airfares*. Moreover, budget airlines are proliferating in Southeast Asia making internal flights very affordable.
Travelers today face an environment of rising fuel and food costs, plummeting dollar values, and an ailing economy. We need to be very careful about where and how we allocate our resources. Up until now, American international travel has been dominated by Europe. Forty years ago European travel was exotic, inexpensive, and the province of either the wealthy or backpackers. In the interim, rising American affluence has made European travel a middle class endeavor viewed almost as an entitlement. However, in the last five years European inflation combined with falling dollar values has made Europe a very expensive destination. Southeast Asia offers a wonderfully affordable alternative.
In the last year and a half, most major travel publications have featured several articles about how to travel more frugally in the current economic environment. All have suggested selecting better value destinations and Southeast Asia is at or near the top of those lists. On Dec. 9, 2007 The Seattle Times’ Carol Pucci featured Southeast Asia in her “Travelwise” column. The title was, “S.E. Asia Makes lots of Cents for U.S. Travelers.” Of Bangkok, she wrote, “The dollar, although worth less than a year ago, still packs more buying power here than in Europe.” On July 21, 2008 Eliza Bates of the Associated Press wrote an article titled, “Budget Bangkok: 15-cent trains, $1 Meals.” The article began with, “Thailand’s tropical capital is teeming with budget options for the penny-pinching traveler.” Both articles go on to list multiple examples of Thai bargains.
The relative value of the Thai and Indonesian currencies is another reason why Southeast Asia is such a good value for American travelers. The exchange on those currencies has remained more favorable than the Euro. From April 2007 to April 2008 the dollar plummeted by more than 17% against the Euro. During that same period, the dollar lost less than 5% of its value against the Baht and Rupiah. Any way one approaches the issue Southeast Asia is a great value.
Beyond the necessities of travel, the low prices in Thailand and Bali make them shopping paradises. Tremendous bargains are available for every budget. Travelers find the usual selection of tourist merchandise: T-shirts, hats, prints, jewelry, clothes, and a staggering array of handicrafts. Handicrafts range from embroidered clothing and bags to paper umbrellas and fans, lacquerware, silver, local textiles, batik, masks, and carved soap. Some of the most popular items are the “knock-off” fashions available in the larger cities. Serious shoppers might consider antiques, tailor-made clothes, furniture, or stone and wood carvings. Additionally, Thailand is one of the world’s leading exporters of gems and ornaments and Thai silk is considered the best in the world.
We at Imprint Tours believe Americans are ready for a new travel frontier and we believe it is Southeast Asia, a part of the world about which we are passionate. Thailand and Bali are beautiful, fascinating, and accessible destinations. They boast fantastic architecture, World Heritage sites, incredible and varied natural beauty, rich artistic heritages, friendly cultures, and well-established tourism infrastructures. It just so happens that Thailand and Bali are also two of the globe’s great travel bargains.

*from the west coast

Bali R&D Trip Nov. 2008

2009-04-01T12:03:00.000-07:00

Upon arriving at Denpasar’s airport I immediately picked up on many familiar impressions. The first was the heat. The last time here we’d been in tropical Asia for a couple months and there was not adjustment necessary. But coming from cold, overcast November Seattle was more of a shock. We later learned that Bali experiences a few short weeks each year when the temperature spikes from their well-advertised year round 85 degrees. Turns out one of those brief periods falls in Nov., just before the rains set in. So for our first week we experienced temps in the high 90s.

A much more pleasant reminder was the temple right in the airport. Bali boasts thousands of temples so one sees them virtually everywhere. The familiar “split gate” entrance and pagoda-like meru were welcome sights and took me right back. The second pleasant reminder was how friendly the Balinese people are. Everyone smiles all the time. One is always pleasantly and genuinely greeted – from the passport control, visa issue, and baggage check to the currency exchange and taxi line-up. Everyone was engaging and ready to help.

We passed up the official taxi line and bargained with a driver hanging about for a fare. We bargained good-naturedly and knocked off close to 50% from the “official” fare. Our driver was pleasant with his limited English. He told me which mobile phone company would best suit our needs and pointed out a place to buy the appropriate chip near our hotel. Once away from the airport we were assaulted with the distinctive smells of Bali: tropical flowers, roasting meat with eastern spices and clove cigarettes (not so nice but distinctive and memorable).

Familiar sights greeted us as well. We saw the traditional red pants and hats among most of the taxi drivers at the airport. We were immediately reminded that the Thais drive on the opposite side of the street form us. Signs for Bintang beer reminded us of our favorite chilled beverage – soon to be tasted. We passed many vendors selling the colorful fabrics of Bali along with the usual tourist fare: T-shirts, swim suits, sun block, and souvenir trinkets. New sights included Starbucks, McDonalds, and KFC (in Kuta).

We checked into the hotel we’d booked. It was a high-end budget place with simple, AC rooms, basic but private bath, and a pool for Maia. Quite a step up from our budget days. I love how the Balinese take so much pride in their architecture. Even this budget hotel had traditional architectural appointments: carved doors, decorative masks, and stone statuary throughout a central garden. I tripped going up the stairs to our room, reminding myself that regular, even stairs are a western phenomenon.

After checking in we went out to explore the neighborhood. The tourist economy is obvious as the streets were lined with warungs and restaurants, Losmen and Hotels, Circle K (convenience) stores, travel agents, clothing stores, and market stalls selling every souvenir imaginable. Right away we encountered the ubiquitous practice of tiny offerings being places in front of shops, homes, hotels, and temples at all times of the day. Keeping the gods happy is a full-time pursuit in Bali. Even though Bali has been greatly developed over the years, one is quickly reminded to watch your step for broken pavements and the various flotsam of a rural culture gone urban.

Our first days were spent looking for hotels and restaurants to use for the tour. Some of our fondest recollections of Bali were the family compound style accommodation we’d enjoyed. So naturally we sought hotels with that same kind of authentic character. As we visited many locations I was reminded of how commonly volcanic materials are used in construction here. Tufa-like bricks are very common for their ease in production and carving. Flowers are a common motif, hardly surprising in the tropics. With the exception of Kuta, the rest of Bali seems committed to keeping their traditional culture alive in their architecture. So pleasant. Then there are the modern adaptations that don’t quite make the grade (in my opinion). I’m thinking of the plastic aquarium I found mounted over a urinal in the airport. I have to give points for creativity and uniqueness.

As we traveled around the island I was struck by the Balinese love for ostentatious, public art. In most towns of size there is at least one monumental statue, usually some Hindu deity, at a major intersection or entrance. I’m starting to understand that there is, at best, only a blurred line between art for life and life as art here. Balinese culture is so enveloped in ceremony, performance, sacrifice, and devotion. In a way that I’ve never experienced anywhere else, these elements seem to be a part of every day and every person’s life – not just dusted off for big festival days. There are statues everywhere – from the huge ones mentioned above to smaller, private garden versions. They are venerated, dressed, and adorned with flowers all the time. The creation and giving of votive offerings is truly a constant, daily activity for all.

We ventured out to Amed on the east coast of the island. It is much less developed than other beach areas. The beaches are not golden sand like Sanur, Kuta, or even Lovina and Candidasa. Instead they are pebble beaches. But the lack of commercial tourist crush is refreshing and the scalloped coast is striking. Multiple inlet beaches are lined with colorful outrigger canoes with eyes painted on their prows. Between the half dozen villages the landscape is dominated by palm trees. The drive from Selang (southeastern-most village) to Ujung was very windy and slow but allowed a glimpse of what remains of authentic Balinese village life and many stunning vistas. We saw many children working or going to school and women shucking corn or doing other tasks. Everyone was friendly and eager to have their picture taken.

The drive from Amed back west across the slopes of Gunung Agung afforded repeated views of emerald rice terraces glinting in the sun. As the guidebooks say, it defies ones ability to find new words for description (verdant, lush, vernal, luxuriant). Mt Batur was shrouded in mist but nonetheless dramatic as we arrived at the lip of the caldera. We could pick out glimpses of the silver lake below and occasional clearing of the clouds allowed the lava dome to briefly appear. We were ever so pleased with the Lakeview hotel perched on the caldera rim. It provides a comfortable venue for the group to enjoy the sunset/sunrise. The brisk mountain air was a welcome change.

Having accomplished our goals for Batur we headed south to Ubud. More remarkable rice terrace views and several wood carving villages made the drive interesting. We settled into our hotel room at Nick’s Guesthouse as the day’s light was failing. Ubud has grown tremendously in the last 15 years but seems to have retained its essential character. A comment I can add for Bali in general. There are many, many more hotels, restaurants, and shops but one can easily slip away from the bustle by leaving the main roads on any alley – soon you are wandering through rice fields of climbing down steep, secluded feeling river valleys. It is quite remarkable really.

Ubud was full of memories: finding hot tea in a vacuum pot on your porch each morning, banana pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast, misspelled signs like “taksi”, and the sounds of performances every night. Lots of great, creative restaurant options, the well-organized tourist information office, and plenty of activities to engage in. At the Circle K I found Birdy canned coffee, a delight I discovered in Thailand last year. In a country where coffee is less than stellar, this was a welcome find. We had nasi goring and mie goring in the market like old times and roasted suckling pig at a famous warung near the main temple. Maia and Julie attended a performance of Barong/Legong and reported it is still as visually stunning and authentic as we remembered. Ubud is just high enough for it to be cooler than the coasts: still hot during the day but pleasant evenings. Maia and Julie shopped in the market while I nursed a sore back one day and we all spent lots of time in the pool. I also indulged in a massage 3 of the 4 days here. It cost about $8 and the girl came to the hotel and worked by the pool – heavenly!

We met with Dewa, a transport contact from Intrepid who turned out to be a great resource. He took me around to hotels and restaurants and introduced me to local guides. When I turned up lame (back) the second day he volunteered to take me to a traditional healer. I went willingly. I had quite the experience. The man’s name was Kokrai and thereafter, when I told any locals of my experience they all knew of him. Dewa arranged everything, which included driving me 15 minutes or so to another village and arranging an offering (which contained about $10). Kokrai was very old, maybe late 70s. He examined me more by touch than by question, using his hands and fingers. He had me lie on my back and he pinched my little toe with a stick – it really hurt and I squeaked more than once. He than had me twist my torso while he poked the heal of my other foot with his stick. Then back to the toe (ouch!). Then he had me sit up and stretch forward. While I sat he kneaded my neck, back, and shoulders. Then he asked me if I wished him to make me some medicine. He spoke English but also pantomimed how the medicine would be applied (although I didn’t understand at the time). I said yes so he made up the medicine. He chopped up several different herbs on a little chopping block on a table, put them in his mouth and chewed them up for a while, and then spewed them out on my lower back. The rest of the herbs he added to some oil and told me to apply it to my back each morning. I thanked him and we returned to Ubud. It was a fascinating experience and I must admit my back loosened up considerably as the day wore on and I recovered, day by day, much quicker than usual.

As was the case on our first visit 15 years ago, one of the most pleasant aspects of Bali is its people. They seem to be irrepressibly smiling, engaging, and friendly. At our first hotel in Kuta we met a family of wife, husband, and young daughter who was enamored of Maia. They spoke little English but were still able to communicate their genuine interest in us, our reason for being in Bali, and their wishes for us to enjoy their island. And once the “conversation” turned to newly elected President Obama, they beamed with pride and expressed their excitement and optimism for all or our futures. Mr. Obama is held to be one of theirs in Indonesia, having lived in Jakarta in his youth. We found the name Obama to be the ultimate language barrier buster as its mere utterance elicited handshakes, smiles, and enthusiastic thumbs-ups. It is quite clear that the new president holds near messiah status here. We were already happy about his election but the special enthusiasm we encountered on Bali added to our excitement and expectation of a promising future. The globe is truly shrinking.

We concluded our R&D excursion excited about the prospects of introducing groups of our American clients to the wonders and beauty of this tropical paradise.

Maia' Bali Impressions

2009-04-01T12:02:00.000-07:00

I thought Bali was very interesting because there were lots of different foods to try. My favorite was chicken satay. I kept having it every day and it was so good but never quite as tasty as the satay we had in Chinatown in Bangkok Thailand. Even though I wasn’t very excited about the sights they were amazing and interesting in their own way. On the way out of Tanah Lot we came across two old women selling sticky rice things. I didn’t know what they were but of course my dad made my try them. My parents liked them but I really didn’t that much. Another food I enjoyed was roasted corn on the cob from Mt Batur. It was roasted over coals, buttered and salted. It was the best corn I’d ever had.

There were a few sights I did like. Like Ulu Watu. It was very interesting because there were wild monkeys everywhere. You had to be very careful because the monkeys would steal anything that caught their eye. The temple on the cliff was beautiful. Tanah Lot was another fun temple because I had fun floating flowers down the stream while my parents looked at the sights. One of the other highlights for me was Tirtagangga, a water temple that had pools, fountains, and lakes. Part of the time I was skipping along stepping stones in one of the pools. The rest of the time I was swimming in the freezing cold pools that had lots of fish.

Shopping was great. I had a lot of fun picking out dresses. There were so many exotic dresses there that I could look at and beg my mother to buy for me. I really had a great time, except the fact that it was very hot.

One of my favorite parts to the trip was that almost every hotel we stayed in had a swimming pool. I got to swim in them almost every day. I liked them all but my favorite was in a small hotel in Jogjakarta where there was a long, rectangular pool that I got to swim in in the rain. Normally in Seattle it would be far to cold to swim in the rain. But in Bali it was always hot enough. On the last day in Jogja, before we went to the airport, my father and I went to an arcade with lots of video games. I had a great time there. I’d never actually been to an arcade before. We went to the bird market and I really didn’t enjoy it because there seemed to be so many animals that seemed to be suffering. They were all in small little cages. It smelled bad and it was so hot so I recommend that if you like animals you should not go to the bird market.

One of the places that I went with my family was Waterbom Park. It was a water park with slides. My favorite ride was the Macaroni Tube. You climbed a tower to a waterslide, got on an inner tube, and go down the slide. At first you were in the open but suddenly you went into a tunnel. It was very scary the first time I went but after it became my favorite. At the end you’d splash into a pool. A couple days later we went to Treetops Adventure park – a ropes course. I got in a harness that had pulleys and hooks. Then I walked over to the practice area and slid down a mini zip line, landing on a net at the end. When I was done practicing I went on the real course, starting with level two. It was very scary at the beginning with long zip lines and walking very high up in the trees. But I was always attached with my harness. I made it to level four, the highest I was allowed. Then we left and went to a little shop to have lunch. I felt something sticky and gooey on my leg. I pulled up my skirt and looked to see what it was. At first I thought it was a slug. But when I tried to pull it off it stuck there. It was biting my leg, it was a leech. It was small and harmless but still disgusting.

On the way home at the airport I was looking at my dad’s backpack and suddenly something green moved. I realized it was a gecko that had hitched a ride on the pack. I told my dad and he shook it off gently. I scared him into a corner so he wouldn’t get stepped on and then he scurried up the wall to safety. Apparently, he wanted to go to America!

Maia Coen (age 10)

First Jogja Visit 1993

2009-04-01T12:00:00.000-07:00

Aug. 2 – Prambanan

We easily caught a bus headed for Solo since they leave about every 10-15 minutes. Within ½ hour we were gazing upon the tall spires in the distance. Getting inside the complex was a more confusing task. Nothing was marked well so once permitted to enter an outer gate we strolled through the souvenir stalls and right in the exit with hardly a word of resistance. The Japanese and French tourist groups dispersed enough for some “all alone at the sight” looking photos. We climbed up into a few of the temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. Much of the complex had collapsed by the last century and was only reconstructed partially starting 1937. Blocks of the former splendor lie all around the reconstructed temples some day to be reassembled if the puzzle can be re-imagined.

Aug. 3 – Borobodur

We decided sunset was a better time for Borobodur so we walked to the bus stop and squeezed on a crowded bus. We arrived at a good time in the late afternoon and wondered the monument without many crowds. The structure itself is magnificent. Six levels rise up to the three bell-shaped stupa rows. Like a giant intricately decorated wedding cake the temple rises out of the palms with the mountain range behind. The sun was filtered through a large cloud cover giving dramatic highlights to the background range. Circumambulating the lower tiers I was able to have a more solitary experience, appreciating the headless Buddhas, fragments of relief illustrations of Buddhist teachings, and the setting sun. Above I hadn’t noticed that the stupas contained anything until I saw two which had the top removed to reveal a sitting Buddha figure. I then peered through the latticed stone to see that they all had a Buddha figure. Most of them were headless but the head was no longer within the stupa. When, how had they been removed? The tourist groups thinned out and we enjoyed the view of the entire monument from down below on the lawn just as the sun beamed out to highlight the stone . . . just beautiful.

First Bali Trip 1993

2009-04-01T11:57:00.001-07:00

Excerpts from Julie’s journal:

Sunday Aug. 8 - Lake Bratan and Mt Batur

“It was a pretty drive back along the coast and cutting inland up the hill we passed a waterfall and continued to gain altitude and lose temperature. The air became quite cool. We stopped to watch the families of monkeys frolicking and grooming on the roadside with a peak through the trees at the lake below. This was a smaller body of water that we passed by to arrive at Lake Bratan and its Pura Ulun Danu temple (of the dead). Also marked by its souvenir row of kitsch we stayed away down on the shore and got some beautiful shots of the pagoda-like structures floating in the aqua-shaded water. The clouds had come in strong in the background and the sun filtered through the front for some beautifully dramatic lighting. For mid-day we couldn’t have asked for more. The short cut road from Bratan to Mt Batur was a rugged, rural lane taking us through areas we never would have found on our own. Past rice paddy fields, small villages, more temples up steep, curvy inclines and through banana palm groves we dodged the potholes and aggravated our driver by wanting to stop for photos. I loved driving along the ridge way above the deep-cut lush valleys. We could see the settlements beyond us as the ridge climbed to become the volcanic rim overlooking Lake Batur and the volcanic cone of Mt Batur. We drove down a side road toward the recommended hotel with reluctance from our driver again. We settled on a guesthouse in the small community of Kintamani without another tourist in sight, just us and the many cowardly barking dogs and the betel-stained blackened teeth of the locals who smiled at us with their remaining molars. We walked along the rim to take in the awe inspiring panorama of Lake Batur below us next to the volcanic Mt Batur. Peaks popped out of the clouds as sunset cleared away the last swirls of overcast to reveal Mt Abang and the towering Mt Agung in the background. We had stopped to visit the Pura Ulun Danu temple on the rim. It was also photographically inspiring with its numerous pagoda-style shrines as foreground. We donned the sarongs and temple sashes amidst a crowd of postcard sales girls who all told me I was beautiful so that I’d give them my lipstick and buy their tattered cards. We avoided them once inside and strode along the back of the walled complex taking in the small, neglected temples below, the winding paths into the valley and a binocular view of the lake villages beyond our reach. We had a bite to eat at a little “restauran” on the rim’s edge, again with a magnificent view nearly all to ourselves since the locals had long since taken their environment for granted.

Aug. 9 – Ubud

Ubud itself came up gradually from the east starting with some temples on the outskirts in rice paddy land. The road onward was dotted with art galleries then more densely with shops and restaurants. Very quaint and artistically oriented the streets were much smaller than I’d expected and charming side lanes led to Losmen tucked behind big Balinese archways into pretty landscaped gardens with bungalow-like rooms with inviting patios to relax and have tea in. We settled on the second guesthouse we saw and headed out for lunch. After a pleasant lunch of gado-gado, nasi goreng, and fruit juice Reid retreated to our bungalow to rest [a touch of Bali belly] and I explored the town. I got to know the town with my cameras and shopping encounters. The best spot I lingered in was a garden next to the Lotus Café with a huge lotus-flower/lily-pad pool in front of a temple complex. I waited patiently for the view to clear of other photographing tourists and just relaxed sitting on the pavilion floor. A flute-playing traveler walked up excusing himself to sit on the corner. I enjoyed the serenade while the sun popped out of and then back into the clouds again. I finally found my price on cotton sarongs here in the big market. They moaned about making no profit but agreed always when I’d walk away. Back at the room Reid had awoken still not feeling too well but we went toward getting transportation to Pejang for the temple ceremony at 6PM. With incomplete info I assumed we could hop in a Bemo pretty easily but this was not the case. We learned from another transport office that finding a way back would be difficult since most local transportation does not run after dark. We decided it would be better to stay in Ubud and go to the Legong dance performance at the palace. We had a good dinner by lantern light [electricity out for a while] at a small Warung on our side lane. We walked to the palace just before show time. The gamelan music had already begun and the palace was packed. Literally there wasn’t a seat in the house. We stood on the side and watched a very well executed variety of traditional dances we’d seen individually performed at Lovina Beach. The pieces are lengthy but it familiarized us better with the styles. The costumes are stunning with the elaborate gold chest and head pieces decorated with plumeria. Visions of Halloween costumes danced in my head.

Aug. 10 – Ubud

The roosters band together forming a chorus at daybreak. The Balinese like all Indonesian we’ve experienced rise early and the boy was already sprucing up the grounds and bringing us fresh hot water for tea before we emerged from our mosquito canopy. The mosquitoes aren’t too voracious here but it’s a nice security blanket to be tucked inside the net. Today we wanted to see some of the sights in the area so we set off walking down Monkey Forest Rd. True to its name, the forest contained many monkeys frolicking among the banyan trees. A moss-covered temple hid beside the stream and another neglected looking one crowned the hill. We joined the road which took us through Pengosekan a small artist community and went a few more kilometers past shops, rice paddy fields and traffic galore to the Goa Gajah (or Elephant Cave) which was discovered in 1925 and is believed to e a Buddhist hermitage but which now houses Hindu deities. In the square outside the cave’s entrance is a sunken bathing place with female shaped fountains which weren’t unearthed until the 1950’s. We went beyond up the road and down again to Yeh Pulu, a relief sculpture on a long wall of a hillside which was discovered around 1925 as well. The worn sculptural work wasn’t as interesting as the lovely walkway steps alongside a landscaped brook but what did it cost? $.50? Back on the main road we caught a Bemo north to Gunung Kawi, a group of burial towers carved out of a cliff among rice patties. We knew we were at one of Bali’s “best sights” because the souvenir stands lined the pathway down. Once passed the gauntlet the area was beautiful and quiet and we felt as if we were in a paradise meandering along the narrow paddy paths looking out at the palms, waterfalls, and large boulders in the stream. If paradise is a garden this would be a good candidate. The sheer size of the towers niched into the cliff was awesome – like a backdrop for an adventure film.

Aug. 12 – Ubud (eastern Bali)

On down the coast we turned our motorcycle inland a few kilometers to Tenganan, reputed to be the island’s oldest village. It is on display within the town walls. For a small donation one mey enter and stroll the long strip of land bordered with walled houses with long work pavilions down the center. Each of the houses now has their beautifully woven ikat cloth for sale, a tradition existing only in few remaining villages. The quality is exquisite. Ikat cloth is woven with threads pre-dyed to a pattern which is determined before it is woven. Double ikat is simply twice as complicated – the warp and the weft are both dyed in the predetermined pattern. We journeyed on past Amlapura, an attractive little town, to Ujung water palace. It was so quiet and peaceful as men painted dugouts, tended the fields, and stared at us with great curiosity. The abandoned water palace of the Raja of Karangasems was impressive. One could imagine the grandeur of the 1920’s complex with majestic stairways leading up to a crumbling pavilion overlook. Leaving the coast we headed uphill to our temple destination of Besakih. On the way we passed Tirtagangga, another better-kept water palace of terraced pools, fountains, and statues. We continued to climb heading back west toward Besakih. Between Selat, Muncan, and Rendang lay the day’s best scenery. As we climbed you could still see the water below and the rolling green hills. The cool mountain air reached us as we motored through more lush, green rice terraces and past panoramic view spots. We arrived at Besakih, the mother temple, at the end of the afternoon. The temple crowns a hilltop and is in good condition compared with many places of worship on the island. The grande4st, highest, largest Mt Agung revealed itself behind the temple as the cloud cover parted for few minutes as we were leaving. We rode down and back to Ubud as the sun set behind some more clouds on the horizon.

Aug. 14 – Kuta (Ulu Watu)

One more adventure tour with a rented motorcycle. After escaping the traffic of Kuta and the airport we headed down a small potholed road into the Bukit Penninsula. We passed through small villages and out to the temple of Ulu Watu. Perched atop a cliff jutting out above the ocean, it was one of the most beautiful complexes we’ve seen. The coastline is so much more dramatic at this southern tip of Bali. The morning overcast cleared and the deep blue waves crashed below as I balanced on a cliff’s edge to photograph the temple in the distance.

Aug. 16 – Cremation

Musicians led the parade followed by several paper mache temple decorations hoisted high, the cremation bull and the throne carrying the body inside. We followed along and climbed up the hill crowding and positioning with the rest for a good vantage point. The wrapped body was lowered into the bull’s cavity and anointed with holy water and many other offerings. From the glance I got at the head, this was the body of an elderly woman. Several other elders gathered on a mat below the cremation pyre for a series of prayers then larger offerings of elaborate paper decorations were placed beneath the bull and secured with large palm trunks. When they needed more wood they just cut down another small palm near the clearing . . . and the gamelan music played on. The sales didn’t stop during the preparatory rituals either. Cold drinks, bananas and table clothes still made the rounds. Women chanted below us as Reid moved so I could record the event. Two large gas torches were brought in and the bull and its passenger went up quickly in flames. I think I was more moved than anyone else. Reid even mentioned that the natives seem to have an acceptance for death as a logical end to life – cremation is just a necessary step to send the spirit onward. The bull was turned around several times by its corners in the procession to confuse the soul. The funeral tower containing the body is bounced, shaken, and spun as well as run all the way from the deceased’s home to the field. If the soul has not been sufficiently confused it might find its way back home. Since a funeral is an expensive affair the bodies are often buried for months or even years until the cremation can be afforded. Funerals are supposed to be fun in Bali with the animist influenced Hinduism are very colorful as well. However it seems to get a rather casual treatment from its own participants – confusing for our western way of thinking.

Tanah Lot

Once past the tourist stalls of souvenirs we gazed out at the dramatic cliffs and saw why the spot is renowned as the most spectacular. It really is stunning and as we walked down the headland a ways we saw Ulu Watu in the far disctance.

Tour Changes

2008-07-06T18:58:00.000-07:00

Imprint Tours - Travel with Intent
Our Thailand photo tour partners at Photography Center Northwest have requested some changes to the January 2009 tour. The primary change is a shortening of the tour from 18 days to 14 days. Cambodia and Angkor Wat will be dropped from the itinerary. Due to rapidly rising transportation and food costs and in response to customer feedback, we are also shortening our 2009 non-photography Thailand tour to two weeks. Tour participants who have already registered have been notified of the changes. The website will reflect the changes and new tour dates by week's end and complete details will be posted in the July newsletter.

2008-06-23T15:01:00.000-07:00

In the fall of 1997 Reid Coen was the guide for our first European tour. He was employed by Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door, whose philosophy of travel is to immerse the traveler in the culture and the history of the country and give that traveler the skills to travel anywhere in the world by themselves if they so choose. Since this was my first travel experience with a guide, I had no benchmark by which to judge Reid's skills or expertise. After three additional tours with this same agency, I have come to realize that Reid is a truly gifted individual who was part of an exceptional travel company. Our travel time on the bus was occupied with instruction in the history, current events, culture, language, and the monetary system of the country we were about to visit. After a few days of travel, Reid's skills as a group leader brought a bunch of individuals together as a cohesive and well functioning group. We were all appreciated for our uniqueness but learned to respect our responsibilities to the group. Our travel itinerary was well organized and communicated verbally and in the written word which was posted at our accommodations and, if we were in transit, on the bus. This does not imply that Reid was inflexible; if the opportunity arose and we could take advantage of a special event, Reid could creatively make arrangements to take advantage of a situation. Thanks to his creativity, my wife and I had the opportunity to take a romantic gondola ride in Venice and toast the city with a glass of champagne in the center of Piazza San Marco.
In April of 2006, we joined Reid and his wife, Julie, for a tour of Greece. In the interim between our first and last trip with Reid his exceptional skills as a tour guide had been honed to a high level of expertise. However, since this tour was to take place under the banner of RC Touring (now Imprint Tours), he was able to correct the few drawbacks of our first tour with him. On the Greece tour our accommodations where much more comfortable and his choice of establishments for our group meals were always a gastronomical delight. The years between our first and last trip together had mellowed Reid like a fine wine. He had retained his wonderful sense of humor, infectious laughter, creativity, curiosity, sense of awe, and personal warmth. Reid has become a great friend, not merely a gifted guide.

Roger Johnston

Imprint Tours Launching New Site

2008-04-17T07:53:00.000-07:00

Imprint Tours is launching their new website on April 25th. Check back soon for more info, entries and links to the new site!